Looking for some tips...

[robmypro]

Hey guys, first post. Boy, this site has a ton of info! Instead of aimlessly diving in, I figure I would shoot off a salvo first and hope to be pointed in the right direction. Looking forward to chatting with some of you guys!

Okay...a bit of background...

I have three cars. One is a 2015 911 GT3, which I purchased from a really good car detailer. The paint is amazing. So smooth and soft. I asked what was done and was told that a clay bar was used, then buffed with a orbital 2 step, including Meguiars 105 with a stiff foam pad, and then Meguiars 66 with a softer pad. Then Zymol was applied with a pad. The car feels just incredible.

I recently bought the wife a 2016 BMW 550i, and the paint feels like crap by comparison. I can feel roughness as I move my hands over the paint in many spots. The wife felt mine and then hers, and she was pretty surprised how bad hers felt. So guess who has a new honey do? Looking to give it the same treatment as the GT3. Unfortunately I bought my GT3 out of state, or I would bring the 550i to him.

I would like to learn to do this myself, which brings me to my 3rd car. I have a 2005 Lexus LX470 which could be my detailing "learning" vehicle. It cleans up decent, but it could use some attention on the paint. No fading. Just lots of little scratches. I don't think the wife will take kindly to me learning with her BMW, so the LX470 is the guinea pig.

So...to the questions. I need some recommendations for a good orbital for a first timer. I would also like to give it the same treatment as my GT3 received, so exactly what pads and other accessories should I be buying? Any advice on the Zymol would be helpful, as there are a lot of them out there.

And lastly, any good links to videos showing pretty much what I am going to attempt to do?

Thanks for the help guys!

Rob

[Mike Phillips]

This should take care of the swirls and scratches. Plus it's a quality tool. You can always get more pads and you should.


Porter Cable Kit with McKee's 37 products (http://www.autogeek.net/xmtpocainswr.html)


For the contamination, you can go with detailing clay or with Nanoskin towels or pads.

If you're new to detailing then I'd recommend starting with clay. Later you can add other tools for mechanically decontaminging paint.

Click this link and you'll find a DVD on how to use the PC PLUS lots of other info...


Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/49489-video-mark-your-backing-plate-make-easy-see-pad-rotation.html)






Get head knowledge first and then go out into your garage...


How to Properly Use the Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher Updated! (http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-dvd.html)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1313/PorterCableDVD.jpg



:)

[JoeyGT]

Others will chime in with more info, but here is my $0.02!

First off, I would learn how to properly wash a car using the "Two Bucket Method" with proper supplies. (2 buckets with grit guards, microfiber wash mitts, name brand car soap, drying towel, etc.)

The way to get the paint to feel smooth is by using a clay bar with a proper lubricant such as clay lube or quick detailer. The clay pulls off the contaminant stuck in the paint that regular washing leaves behind.

As for polishers, purchase a Dual Action polisher. The "Porter Cable 7424XP" and the Griots Garage DA Polisher are both great tools for beginners and professionals.

As for pads, that depends on the condition of your paint. I would just buy a bunch of every color if you're serious about detailing.

For products, check out "HD Speed" for removing light to moderate swirls and scratches.

*Edit: The kit that Mike posted is awesome, but make sure you buy more pads.

[robmypro]

Thanks guys! This helps.

[Mike Phillips]

Although there are thinner foam pads out now for people new to machine polishing these are still very thin (historically speaking) and work great with both the PC and the GG.



Lake Country

5.5" Flat Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html)

In order from the most to the least aggressive

Yellow = Cutting pad (most aggressive)
Orange = Light Cutting Pad
White = Polishing Pad
Black = Finishing Pad
Blue = Waxing Pad (softest)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/5_5FlatPads01.jpg


The outer edge of the face of these pads is tapered so they are actually a little under 5" in diameter
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/5_5FlatPads02.jpg




Both the Griot's Garage 6" DA Polisher and the Porter Cable 7424XP are not only great for beginners but I still use them all the time.

In fact, we just de-swirled a 1933 Rolls Royce Phantom II Town Car for our TV show last Friday using ONLY the PC.


So don't think that just because it's an entry level tool that it's also not a capable tool.


:)

[robmypro]

Thanks Mike. Really appreciate you sharing your expertise. Quick question. So I really have 2 cars to do here. One is 11 years old, the other has 20 miles on it. If I go with the McKee's kit you mentioned, where does that leave me with the new car? Figuring I will just get the clay bar, but would I use the fast compound on the new paint? It looks like it is used for older paint, but not sure about a new car.

[robmypro]

Basically, here is what my cart looks like...

- Grit Guard Dual Bucket Washing System
- Supreme Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt
- Cobra Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying Towel
- Meguiars Smooth Surface Clay Kit
- Lake Country 5 1/2 inch Flat Pads 6 pack
- McKee's 37 Porter Cable Swirl Remover Kit

Should I add anything specific to address the new car?

Thanks Mike!

Rob

[Goin Rogue]

I would suggest 2 items:
Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Wash Mitt (http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-autoscrub-wash-mitt-fine-grade.html)

And

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html).

The Nanoskin is a clay alternative and much quicker. ONR has multiple uses, clay lube, waterless wash, rinseless wash, detail spray.........etc.

You will also need some quality microfiber towels for the exterior, do not go skimp here. I like Gold Plush Microfiber Kit, Microfiber wash mitt, microfiber towels (http://www.autogeek.net/gold-wash-mitt-towels-kit.html).
And you will need car soap, I love Meguiars Hyper-Wash is a concetrated car wash for frequent or professional detailing. Super foaming, long lasting car shampoo from Meguiars. (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiar-s-hyper-wash.html).

[robmypro]

I would suggest 2 items:
Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Wash Mitt (http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-autoscrub-wash-mitt-fine-grade.html)

And

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html).

The Nanoskin is a clay alternative and much quicker. ONR has multiple uses, clay lube, waterless wash, rinseless wash, detail spray.........etc.

You will also need some quality microfiber towels for the exterior, do not go skimp here. I like Gold Plush Microfiber Kit, Microfiber wash mitt, microfiber towels (http://www.autogeek.net/gold-wash-mitt-towels-kit.html).
And you will need car soap, I love Meguiars Hyper-Wash is a concetrated car wash for frequent or professional detailing. Super foaming, long lasting car shampoo from Meguiars. (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiar-s-hyper-wash.html).

Thank you. Putting the list together. Getting pretty long!

[JoeyGT]

Throw in some clay lubricant (which Goin Rogue posted), along with some extra microfiber towels to buff off product, and just to carry along with you in the car!

You can never have too many microfiber towels, lol.

[Paul A.]

Looks like you've gotten some great advice from all up to this point. I can't agree more with the point about refining your wash and dry routine on all vehicles. That will be the single most frequent effort that "rubs" your paint most often and that, for me, gets concentrated focus to reduce as much marring as possible.

The only other point i'll toss in is...

You have 3 distinctly different paint systems on your vehicles and each may have their own distinct characteristics with regard to workability. Once you start correcting and machining you may find the BMW is very hard to correct and the Lexus is very soft and malleable. Or maybe even vice versa! And that comes into play with the wash and dry technique mentioned earlier. Once you get to machine work, do your test spots with good technique and then study the results. The 1st Commandment of Proper Detailing is to use the LEAST AGGRESSIVE METHOD to level, cut, shine, buff etc. paint. The paint will tell you what it likes however it is sometimes difficult to interpret when first starting out.

Basically...

1. Refine your most frequent "abrasion" technique i.e washing and drying to reduce the chances of scratching.

2. Get to know the workability differences of each of your 3 vehicles and...

3. Study your paint after trying out some different combinations of product and pads.

The PC kit with McKee's products that Mike P suggested should be perfect for all 3 vehicles. I would also throw in a 6 pack of the thin, flat LC pad's with 3 orange and 3 whites. You may need the orange pads on the BMW or the Porsche and not on the Lexus (or again, maybe even vice versa) but you'll most likely have what you need for all 3 vehicles.

Finally, if you would like some guidance, you may have a fellow Geek near you to maybe help sort out what is inevitably a bunch of new information to digest. Where are you located?

[robmypro]

Looks like you've gotten some great advice from all up to this point. I can't agree more with the point about refining your wash and dry routine on all vehicles. That will be the single most frequent effort that "rubs" your paint most often and that, for me, gets concentrated focus to reduce as much marring as possible.

The only other point i'll toss in is...

You have 3 distinctly different paint systems on your vehicles and each may have their own distinct characteristics with regard to workability. Once you start correcting and machining you may find the BMW is very hard to correct and the Lexus is very soft and malleable. Or maybe even vice versa! And that comes into play with the wash and dry technique mentioned earlier. Once you get to machine work, do your test spots with good technique and then study the results. The 1st Commandment of Proper Detailing is to use the LEAST AGGRESSIVE METHOD to level, cut, shine, buff etc. paint. The paint will tell you what it likes however it is sometimes difficult to interpret when first starting out.

Basically...

1. Refine your most frequent "abrasion" technique i.e washing and drying to reduce the chances of scratching.

2. Get to know the workability differences of each of your 3 vehicles and...

3. Study your paint after trying out some different combinations of product and pads.

The PC kit with McKee's products that Mike P suggested should be perfect for all 3 vehicles. I would also throw in a 6 pack of the thin, flat LC pad's with 3 orange and 3 whites. You may need the orange pads on the BMW or the Porsche and not on the Lexus (or again, maybe even vice versa) but you'll most likely have what you need for all 3 vehicles.

Finally, if you would like some guidance, you may have a fellow Geek near you to maybe help sort out what is inevitably a bunch of new information to digest. Where are you located?

Hey thanks a lot for the advice! Really appreciate it!

[Ebg18t]

Robmypro- if you get a PC or GG6 with the McKee 37 kit and 6 extra pads that should cover you. Add in a dozen gold Jr. MF towels, some WG Uber Rinsless & 6 Buff & Shine 700 GSM towels for Rinseless washing and a Waffle Guzzler towel fir drying.

You might want to post your location, a local geek might be able to come by and help you.