Todd@Rupes need your thoughts

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

I have the original Rupes with the less powerful motor than yours. I get away with using Buff and Shine flat pads on it just fine, only I change the pad after EACH section pass. I keep 6-8 pads in rotation and switch them out after each section pass so they don't get overloaded with heat. Heat caused what happens to your pads, the CCS just aren't made for the abuse of a long throw polisher.

Don't fret, I learned this lesson the hard way too and ruined a bunch of perfectly good pads with excess heat.

[Jaretr1]

My names not Todd, but I'll throw my 2 cents in - it wasn't the machine heating up that caused the 'melt' but the friction and lack of airflow. The added pad rotation speed and torque of the Mark II is going to have more heat buildup. Odds are the tool itself wasn't hot at all and any heat was isolated simply to the foam and transferred to the backing plate.

The design and CELL STRUCTURE of the foam is going to become even more important in this situation. There is a lot more energy being pumped thru that pad now over the ES tool... even at lower speed settings.


You can be Todd if you like...this is the internet. You can be whoever you want to beIm the MAN

[coolcobramatt]

Thanks Dylan. Todd was the first name I found so I used him.

To the guys STILL posting "use the rupes pads". For the 5 millionth time I DON'T LIKE THE HARD FOAM PADS. I'll try a different pad but IT WON'T BE THE RUPES versions.

[Mike lambert]

The new b/s pads work very well. I have never had a need to run mine over 4?

[Todd@RUPES]

The problem with any long throw tool is that they stress the pad considerably more than a standard tool.

Each part of the system has to be considered - from the foam type, to the pad type, to the why the hook and loop attaches (strong sheer strength).

As far as the RUPES pads, I understand you don't like them. However, if they are primed according to our recommendations (run on speed 3 with 6 drops of product for about 30 seconds with firm pressure) the polish will soften the first few mm of the foam and this will present sling completely.

In fact, when I do training sessions I always show the priming technique first and make sure everybody is comfortable with that. I never wear an apron and (almost never) have any sling lines across my stomach.

[Dylan@RUPES]

You can be Todd if you like...this is the internet. You can be whoever you want to beIm the MAN

The question of if I can vs if I'd actually want to be confused for Todd is still up for debate ;)



Thanks Dylan. Todd was the first name I found so I used him.

To the guys STILL posting "use the rupes pads". For the 5 millionth time I DON'T LIKE THE HARD FOAM PADS. I'll try a different pad but IT WON'T BE THE RUPES versions.

Hey no worries - Todd is THE MAN when it comes to all things application and training. I just jump in and help where I can.


The problem with any long throw tool is that they stress the pad considerably more than a standard tool.

Each part of the system has to be considered - from the foam type, to the pad type, to the why the hook and loop attaches (strong sheer strength).

As far as the RUPES pads, I understand you don't like them. However, if they are primed according to our recommendations (run on speed 3 with 6 drops of product for about 30 seconds with firm pressure) the polish will soften the first few mm of the foam and this will present sling completely.

In fact, when I do training sessions I always show the priming technique first and make sure everybody is comfortable with that. I never wear an apron and (almost never) have any sling lines across my stomach.

I'll add to this a little additional learning I've been privy to since my recent trip to the HQ in Milan - the importance of the compatibility of the loop material to the hook material. Not all "VELCRO" is compatible. Certainly it will stick, but that doesn't mean good engagement, and previously the stresses at work on the hook/loop engagement point weren't so much that they'd cause this to be an issue. Some hooks work better or worse with some loop types - get sloppy engagement due to incompatible materials and you create an additional friction point.

That combined with the speed and size of the stroke with a Bigfoot tool and you have situation that will generate a lot of heat in a hurry. Like running a marathon in corduroy pants LOL

[Jaretr1]

The problem with any long throw tool is that they stress the pad considerably more than a standard tool.

Each part of the system has to be considered - from the foam type, to the pad type, to the why the hook and loop attaches (strong sheer strength).

As far as the RUPES pads, I understand you don't like them. However, if they are primed according to our recommendations (run on speed 3 with 6 drops of product for about 30 seconds with firm pressure) the polish will soften the first few mm of the foam and this will present sling completely.

In fact, when I do training sessions I always show the priming technique first and make sure everybody is comfortable with that. I never wear an apron and (almost never) have any sling lines across my stomach.

Todd is right on the money.

Last night I used my Rupes with a Lake Country ThinPro foam pad with a compound using moderate pressure. The pad got warm at times, but never hot.

And I did prime the pad with no slinging! Priming the pad is important for many reasons.

[Toxix]

Todd and Dylan.

Flex 3401 user chiming in with interest in the Rupes MII system.
A lot of emphasis seems to be made on priming the pad with 3-5 drops of compound.
I have grown fond of using my Wolfgang Pad Conditioner over the last few years to prime my Lake Country Hybrids and my Buff and Shine Eurofoam pads.
Is this applicable towards the Rupes system, Rupes pads, Rupes compounds and Rupes polishes?
This is going to be a big investment for me to migrate over to as I plan on pairing the correct pads with the correct tool.

I believe I also PM'd one of you, please respond when you have the time to :)

[Sizzle Chest]

The problem with any long throw tool is that they stress the pad considerably more than a standard tool.

Each part of the system has to be considered - from the foam type, to the pad type, to the why the hook and loop attaches (strong sheer strength).

As far as the RUPES pads, I understand you don't like them. However, if they are primed according to our recommendations (run on speed 3 with 6 drops of product for about 30 seconds with firm pressure) the polish will soften the first few mm of the foam and this will present sling completely.

In fact, when I do training sessions I always show the priming technique first and make sure everybody is comfortable with that. I never wear an apron and (almost never) have any sling lines across my stomach.



^^^Maybe not when doing a demo or training session...but I bet you wear one around the house mister! :kiss: :D

[ronkh57]

^^^Maybe not when doing a demo or training session...but I bet you wear one around the house mister! :kiss: :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nt8pLcsoLAc

[Dylan@RUPES]

Todd and Dylan.

Flex 3401 user chiming in with interest in the Rupes MII system.
A lot of emphasis seems to be made on priming the pad with 3-5 drops of compound.
I have grown fond of using my Wolfgang Pad Conditioner over the last few years to prime my Lake Country Hybrids and my Buff and Shine Eurofoam pads.
Is this applicable towards the Rupes system, Rupes pads, Rupes compounds and Rupes polishes?
This is going to be a big investment for me to migrate over to as I plan on pairing the correct pads with the correct tool.

I believe I also PM'd one of you, please respond when you have the time to :)

I can't personally say I've tried any dedicated pad primers with our system, so I can't say specifically whether or not it would work. Maybe Todd has some insight he can share.

With the foam composition of our pads being what it is, featuring a VERY large open cell design thinner liquids tend to migrate too easily (leading to sling). Can't say the viscosity of your primer is too thick or thin, but its something to consider that may have a negative impact on user experience even if it had no impact on polishing performance.


^^^Maybe not when doing a demo or training session...but I bet you wear one around the house mister! :kiss: :D

LOL :dblthumb2:

[Sizzle Chest]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nt8pLcsoLAc


LOL. You are welcome. And good day to you sir! :dblthumb2:

[DaytonaJae]

^^^Maybe not when doing a demo or training session...but I bet you wear one around the house mister! :kiss: :D

I think it's actually a backless dress that he wears around the house.

/duck

[Todd@RUPES]

Todd and Dylan.

Flex 3401 user chiming in with interest in the Rupes MII system.
A lot of emphasis seems to be made on priming the pad with 3-5 drops of compound.
I have grown fond of using my Wolfgang Pad Conditioner over the last few years to prime my Lake Country Hybrids and my Buff and Shine Eurofoam pads.
Is this applicable towards the Rupes system, Rupes pads, Rupes compounds and Rupes polishes?
This is going to be a big investment for me to migrate over to as I plan on pairing the correct pads with the correct tool.

I believe I also PM'd one of you, please respond when you have the time to :)

Can you use a pad conditioner on RUPES pads? Sure. We don't recommend it however, and here is why....

When you place the correctly-sized RUPES pad onto the appropriate BigFoot Polisher and run it in free air (full speed off the paint) there should be close-to-zero vibration. A lot of work went into the counter balance of this machine. Any large-stroke random orbital polisher is going to last longer and run better when it exhibits near-zero vibration in free air.

Imagine if the compound was "allowed" to soak into the foam polishing pads - like a sponge getting wet... The weight of the pad would increase (dramatically relative to the weight of the pad) and the counter balance would be thrown off.

RUPES pads use foams that were carefully selected to work with the high-impact action of large-stroke random orbital polishers. The open-cell structure is more susceptible product soak. When you spray the pad with a conditioner, you can create a capillary effect which will help load pull compound into the foam.

A random orbital polisher creates a pretty violent action within the foam - like a scrabbler ride at the fair. If we add liquid into the pad, not only is the weight thrown off, but now we will decrease airflow through the pad and increase it's ability to hold and build heat. It is a lose lose situation.

So can you do it? Yes. Should you? We don't think so. Applying 6 drops (or so) on the pad, running it for 30 seconds with firm(ish) pressure on speed 3 does an effective job of dispersing the product on the foam, softening the face of the pad, and preventing sling without any drawbacks associated with adding a spray.

[Todd@RUPES]

^^^Maybe not when doing a demo or training session...but I bet you wear one around the house mister! :kiss: :D

Oh boy... lol.