Swirl Marks galore – new vehicle

[gsk]

Hello, newbie to the forum here & detailing (female & tipping senior status)… I’ve just read the thread on - Work done at body shop, swirl marks everywhere (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/97577-work-done-body-shop-swirl-marks-everywhere.html) and have a similar situation. I have a 2015 F150 with less than 1000 miles on it and noticed the other day – there are swirl marks everywhere!!!! I’ve been debating on taking it back to the dealership but may opt to try and take care of the situation myself. I’m very meticulous about my vehicles and would do whatever I’m capable of. What would you suggest that I do to remove the swirls, a one step process or the more detailed multi-step process? Everything would have to be done by hand as I don’t have any type of polisher. Please also include any product recommendations. Thank you for your time, Gwen

p.s. The truck is black metallic

[tuscarora dave]

If you went to Harbor Freight tools and picked up a Platinum DA polisher and a couple of pads to do the job, it would more than pay for itself in time and save a ton of body pain as well. You'll likely never finish the job by hand as black is the toughest color to finish.

We're talking an investment of less than $100 for the proper tools to get it done yourself. Add in a few bucks for a pack of half decent microfiber towels and a pint of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and you can work a panel at a time until you get it finished the way you see acceptable.

It'll take a little practice but I've taught children the process and watched them produce really decent results. It's not that tough of a learning curve.

You really should add a clay bar kit to the mix so that you're working on a clean canvas so to speak, but it's not absolutely necessary to achieve a great deal of improvement.

The clear paint on your new Ford is likely very hard and won't respond so well to hand compounding, so the machine will likely be more of a requirement than a suggestion, but nothing ventured nothing gained. Perhaps someone will provide some insight on hand compounding hard clearcoat over black paint...but something tells me very few will recommend going at it by hand.

I'd start by watching some "paint correction" videos.

[custmsprty]

Better yet, Autopia, AG's sister site has a great deal on a GG6 polisher kit with Blackfire Polishes and pads, everything you need to get started and a lifetime warranty, not too mention a better machine.

Two of the most trusted names in car care join forces to eradicate paint defects from your finish with the Griot's Garage & BLACKFIRE Duo Kit. (http://www.autopia-carcare.com/griots-blackfire-polisher-duo.html#.VolE5fkrI1I)

As an owner of a black vehicle I can honestly say you will never be able to do this by hand.

Toss this in and you will have the best looking Ford out there. This LSP combo is dynamite.

BLACKFIRE Wet-Ice Over Fire Combo (http://www.autopia-carcare.com/blackfire-wet-ice-combo.html#.VolGDPkrI1I)

I use this combo on my wife's car.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/custmsprty/BlackfireMS_zps7f01618b.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/custmsprty/media/BlackfireMS_zps7f01618b.jpg.html)

[DaveT435]

Welcome to AG!!

[Boejoula]

I have not tried either machine mentioned above but I have tried a Porter Cable machine. It is very similar to the above mentioned machine and I am confident you will achieve your desired results with any of them. The GG6 is a great deal.

GG6/Wolfgang package (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-garage-wolfgang-kit-hd1.html)

This has all you would need as a beginner (aside from LSP).

Also use Coupon code Geek2016 for an addition 20% off.


I would suggest staying away for Harbor Freight. The prices are so low for a reason.:xyxthumbs:

[custmsprty]

One of the things I like about this kit is it comes with the 5" backing plate. A couple reasons I like the 5" BP. The machine corrects more efficiently with 5.5" pads and 5.5" pads are less money.

And the Blackfire Polishes are first class as are WG.

Two of the most trusted names in car care join forces to eradicate paint defects from your finish with the Griot's Garage & BLACKFIRE Duo Kit. (http://www.autopia-carcare.com/griots-blackfire-polisher-duo.html#.VolN7fkrI1J)

[Eldorado2k]

@Boejoula. Don't knock it till you try it:)

[cardaddy]

Hi Gwen!

:welcome: to AGO. :D

The first two responses are spot on. :props:

The paint on your new F150 is what we'd call "hard". Trying to remove swirls and RIDS by hand will result in bleeding stumps extending from your torso. :rolleyes: That and your shoulders and back will never forgive you. ;)

The GG6 deal that was linked, once you combine it with the current 20% site wide sale at Autogeek is a very GOOD DEAL.

Also... it's possible to get the GG buffer for under $100 (with 30% off at a major auto parts store). Just contact Autogeek and tell them you have a 30% off coupon and they'll match it. :) Should be able to find that coupon code online somewhere. ;)

Just make SURE you get a couple extra orange pads. Don't worry about any other color for now, just orange. (Preferably flat, but CCS will work.) You REALLY need 6 pads to do that truck, but us old folks tend not to do the entire thing at once. By breaking it up, and doing only a panel at a time, you MIGHT just be able to do it with 2 pads. I can tell you that you WILL NEED TWO PADS just to get the hood done. Same thing with any large panel, where 2 pads is what you'll need.

Also you'll want to pick up at least half a dozen (better yet a dozen) microfiber pads for wiping the compound. Really good thing that Autogeek is having a microfiber sale about now... and they are finally selling them (almost) as cheap as where most of us buy them. ;) Well... considering their shipping rates they may end up being cheaper in some areas. :D

Only thing you'd need after that is a good quality Last Step Product (LSP) which would be a sealant. Menzerna Power Lock, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0, or Meguiar's M21 2.0 are all great sealants. (Megs is easily the most affordable.) ;)

Then finish with a tire gel and you're set. :D


AAAAAAAAnnnnnnnddddddd........ depending on where you're at, there's a good chance that another AG member would be willing to show you the ropes, and get you started. Folks are just good that way 'round these parts. :props:

[jsgntulok]

Hi Gwen and welcome to AutoGeek.

I second what cardaddy just wrote. Let us know where you are located. Hopefully there will be another member close by to help you out, maybe try out a machine or two. Before you know it, you will be a detailing addict like the rest of us.

[Boejoula]

@Boejoula. Don't knock it till you try it:)

I haven't had good luck with anything purchased there.

[custmsprty]

I haven't had good luck with anything purchased there.

Yeah, I bought a rolling garage chair, wheels broke off after 6 months.

[DaveT435]

I have not tried either machine mentioned above but I have tried a Porter Cable machine. It is very similar to the above mentioned machine and I am confident you will achieve your desired results with any of them. The GG6 is a great deal.

GG6/Wolfgang package (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-garage-wolfgang-kit-hd1.html)

This has all you would need as a beginner (aside from LSP).

Also use Coupon code Geek2016 for an addition 20% off.


I would suggest staying away for Harbor Freight. The prices are so low for a reason.:xyxthumbs:


HF sells stuff for what it is, cheap Chinese tools. Sad thing is you can go to Sears buy a big roller took chest and pay 25-30% more...but I can almost guarantee they come out of the same plant as the HF tool chests do. I know most of them at best come from the same country. A lot of the tools you buy at HD and Lowe's are the exact same tools. Yes they have some real junk in there. I wouldn't buy any hand tools there, but again you can find the cheap sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers everywhere else also.
I hate that our government has allowed so much of our manufacturing go overseas. But if I'm going to buy a Chinese product I may as well buy it from someone who is honest about what it is rather than someone trying to charge more and sell it for something it isn't.

[gsk]

Thanks All!!! I sure appreciate the input, and going to digest it a little :-). I'm sitting in Iowa - Southwest Iowa to be exact; across from Omaha, NE.

[Eldorado2k]

I couldn't care less where I buy something from as long as it's worth what I paid for it. I'm not a fanboy of where things are sold.

Just give me good value for my hard earned dollar. That's all that matters to me.

[swanicyouth]

HF sells stuff for what it is, cheap Chinese tools. Sad thing is you can go to Sears buy a big roller took chest and pay 25-30% more...but I can almost guarantee they come out of the same plant as the HF tool chests do. I know most of them at best come from the same country. A lot of the tools you buy at HD and Lowe's are the exact same tools. Yes they have some real junk in there. I wouldn't buy any hand tools there, but again you can find the cheap sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers everywhere else also.
I hate that our government has allowed so much of our manufacturing go overseas. But if I'm going to buy a Chinese product I may as well buy it from someone who is honest about what it is rather than someone trying to charge more and sell it for something it isn't.


Where do you buy hand tools from? I'm just curious.... Because I've beat the crap out of HF sockets and ratchets without any of them failing.

Yes, I own stuff from Snap On, Mac, Matco, Wera, etc... But, I have to tell you - the HF sockets, ratchets, and extensions are pretty solid. Actually, I prefer some of their professional ratchets over Snap On.