Potent pre cleansing soap solution for foam cannon

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Whenever I need to prep a vehicle for work I will first pressure wash of the exterior to knock off any buildup of mud, dirt, leaves, salt, etc. My next step has been CarPro Iron-X Snow Soap via foam cannon to help strip the paint of any LSP that may be present. I let that dwell and then pressure wash it off and follow that up with a 2BM wash with a normal wash such as Meguiar's Hyper Wash.

I know claying, compounding, polishing, using an AIO will remove anything left of the surface from the owner. However I would really like to strip the paint naked as much as I can during the first foam cannon application.

What are you guys using as a pre cleansing solution for vehicles that come through? Or am I over thinking this?

[tenblade2001]

I don't think you are over thinking at all...it happens to be my process as well. I use CG citrus 2oz in foam cannon.

[EzyBrzy]

I've been using CG Citrus wash also. I think they recommend 2oz/bucket for maintenance wash and higher conenctrations, 1oz/gal, to strip it clean.

I don't really measure though, I just give the bottle a good squeeze into the foam gun container lol. Sometimes I'll mix it with some other cheap car soap laying around

[Ricorocks]

Messrs Tenblade2001, Adrian - CG's customer support led me to believe, CG's Citrus W/G was effective at stripping. It's not! In fact, chemically, nothing can strip, what works is the buffer & polish(s) corrective procedure.

See this thread's posts: 11, 13, 18, 19, 22, 23

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/97423-soaps-used-excess-can-degrade-lsp-2.html

Also note CG does not talk about this on the products "LABEL" nor its official literature on the product. This is strictly "OFF LABEL" claim by CG's support staff. If this were true, CG would not have overlooked this, in it's literature, so as to add another reason for purchasing. Also they list this product as "wax/sealant" safe. Currently CG has only one product (car wash soaps), not 'wax/sealant' safe. That would be the bug & tar shampoo.

I still have about a 1/3 bottle of Citrus W/G, & was ticked off, when finding out the truth about, wax & sealant removal. For me now it's wash normally, clay, polish last several times with M205. And I'm sure every smidgen of old is gone.

[FUNX650]

IMO:
If the quality-level of previously applied LSPs
were to be anywhere near worthy of their
weight-in-salt; then: the way to ensure
the paint has actually been "stripped naked"
of those previous LSPs, is by polishing.



Bob

[Ricorocks]

Bob - True!!!!

But the miss information, spreads like wildfire example Citrus W/G 1oz/1gal. I felt cheated!

[Kamakaz1961]

Mike IMO you are not overthinking this process. The fact that you are "questioning" your technique just tells me that you are looking for perfection (no pun intended). I too am always looking to get better at my detailing technique.

The bottom line is: I would rather take my ride to you any day and at anytime if I needed a detail. The reason is I would never have to worry about a less than perfect detail.

Happy New Year and as always you are a kick ass detailer!!

[KMdef9]

From what I read, soaps don't help remove any decent LSP, but I, and most others here, have no way to prove either side. So I like to assume worst case scenario when I'm unsure, so I say it doesn't strip the LSP.

Is the snow foam a chemical decontaminate remover, like regular Iron-X? I didn't think it was, (if it is, I doubt it's as strong) so I'd recommend adding that step to your washing method, as you said you're trying to remove as much as possible.

The only way I'd see the snow foam as overthinking, is if it doesn't remove more than what the hyperwash does right after. I've used snow soap before, and didn't notice a difference between that and my other soaps, other than it stinks like Iron-x.

With that, my order for filthy vehicles is (without getting into much detail) :

Power wash
2bm
Iron-x
Clay
correct/polish
LSP


It really comes down to what works for you.

[dcjredline]

I use the CG Citrus Red. As some have said it probably doesnt make the car naked but it seems to work ok for me. Im sure the Iron-X snow soap would do a fine job also. Stick with what has worked for you Mike, you seem to do some dang good work!!!!!!!!

[EzyBrzy]

Messrs Tenblade2001, Adrian - CG's customer support led me to believe, CG's Citrus W/G was effective at stripping. It's not! In fact, chemically, nothing can strip, what works is the buffer & polish(s) corrective procedure.

See this thread's posts: 11, 13, 18, 19, 22, 23

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/97423-soaps-used-excess-can-degrade-lsp-2.html

Also note CG does not talk about this on the products "LABEL" nor its official literature on the product. This is strictly "OFF LABEL" claim by CG's support staff. If this were true, CG would not have overlooked this, in it's literature, so as to add another reason for purchasing. Also they list this product as "wax/sealant" safe. Currently CG has only one product (car wash soaps), not 'wax/sealant' safe. That would be the bug & tar shampoo.

I still have about a 1/3 bottle of Citrus W/G, & was ticked off, when finding out the truth about, wax & sealant removal. For me now it's wash normally, clay, polish last several times with M205. And I'm sure every smidgen of old is gone.

Yeah, I didn't think it made any difference but once I run out of these CG soaps I'm going with Meguiar's Hyper Wash. Seem's like the most economical.

[Ricorocks]

I believe PiPuk testing found, that after trying shampoos, then removing the, residual surfactants, from the shampoo, you still get beading. So it only appears that the LSP is gone. In order to chemically remove a very basic (Ph greater than 10) would be required for stripping, this would/could be harmful, to the paint.

An interesting experiment might be, for those with spare car parts would be testing

1. CG's bug/tar shampoo, stronger than label <theory soap is not LSP safe.

2. Wash with "Pad Cleaner" or varying amounts of.

insure sufactants are removed check for beading.

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

I don't think you are over thinking at all...it happens to be my process as well. I use CG citrus 2oz in foam cannon.


I've been using CG Citrus wash also. I think they recommend 2oz/bucket for maintenance wash and higher conenctrations, 1oz/gal, to strip it clean.

I don't really measure though, I just give the bottle a good squeeze into the foam gun container lol. Sometimes I'll mix it with some other cheap car soap laying around


CG's customer support led me to believe, CG's Citrus W/G was effective at stripping. It's not! In fact, chemically, nothing can strip, what works is the buffer & polish(s) corrective procedure.

Honestly I have looked into this one as I too have heard that it "can strip"


See this thread's posts: 11, 13, 18, 19, 22, 23

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/97423-soaps-used-excess-can-degrade-lsp-2.html


Thanks for bringing that up. I have some reading to do.


Also note CG does not talk about this on the products "LABEL" nor its official literature on the product. This is strictly "OFF LABEL" claim by CG's support staff. If this were true, CG would not have overlooked this, in it's literature, so as to add another reason for purchasing. Also they list this product as "wax/sealant" safe. Currently CG has only one product (car wash soaps), not 'wax/sealant' safe. That would be the bug & tar shampoo.

I still have about a 1/3 bottle of Citrus W/G, & was ticked off, when finding out the truth about, wax & sealant removal. For me now it's wash normally, clay, polish last several times with M205. And I'm sure every smidgen of old is gone.

Interesting. Another one of CG false claims.

[Setec Astronomy]

Might I suggest step 1 from this system? Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution (http://www.autogeek.net/finish-kare-paint-cleaning-system.html)

Or perhaps just foaming the car with an APC.

[tenblade2001]

IMO:
If the quality-level of previously applied LSPs
were to be anywhere near worthy of their
weight-in-salt; then: the way to ensure
the paint has actually been "stripped naked"
of those previous LSPs, is by polishing.



Bob

Whenever I read Bob's posts, I can't help but hear Yoda's voice in my head :laughing:

[ViperGuy21]

Messrs Tenblade2001, Adrian - CG's customer support led me to believe, CG's Citrus W/G was effective at stripping. It's not! In fact, chemically, nothing can strip, what works is the buffer & polish(s) corrective procedure.

See this thread's posts: 11, 13, 18, 19, 22, 23

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/97423-soaps-used-excess-can-degrade-lsp-2.html

Also note CG does not talk about this on the products "LABEL" nor its official literature on the product. This is strictly "OFF LABEL" claim by CG's support staff. If this were true, CG would not have overlooked this, in it's literature, so as to add another reason for purchasing. Also they list this product as "wax/sealant" safe. Currently CG has only one product (car wash soaps), not 'wax/sealant' safe. That would be the bug & tar shampoo.

I still have about a 1/3 bottle of Citrus W/G, & was ticked off, when finding out the truth about, wax & sealant removal. For me now it's wash normally, clay, polish last several times with M205. And I'm sure every smidgen of old is gone.

I have actually had several experiences with CWG actually stripping off the lsp. I use CWG nor maintenance and stripping and can absolutely tell the difference. For example, the last one I did was my dad's truck. It was just getting a wash, decon., seal and it had several layers of wax and sealant on it from the last few months. It had decent hydrophobic behavior still, but once I washed the car with CWG at 1oz/gal(it may have been stronger this time by just a smidgen)the water just clung to the paintwork in sheets. I even did some 50/50's where I washed one panel and not the next one to see the difference and it was very significant.

To the OP-the only other thing I use besides CWG at high concentrations is APC on the really nasty areas. Spray on, short dwell, hose off