Wash Question

[GLOCKer]

Let me preface the question with an explanation of what products I use and why...

I use Meguiar's products on my car, almost exclusively, with the exception of a handful of products. The reason I use Meguiar's products is because they are readily available at most retail centers; I don't have to wait for orders to be shipped, I don't have to pay shipping, and if I run out of something I can get it from the store almost immediately.

So onto my question. I just bought my first DA (nothing fancy, it's a Harbor Freight model with some pads ordered from Auto Geek) and I want to step up my detailing game with my black 2014 Mustang GT and take it a little to the next level. I usually do a two-bucket wash with Meguiar's Wash & Wax Car Wash. I really like how it lubricates the panels as I'm washing and it seems to help hide any micro-marring that occurs from environmental wear. Damn, I hate owning a black car! I also have a bottle of Meguiar's Deep Crystal Car Wash that I bought after having a part painted for my car that had to stay wax free for some time.

If I'm preparing to do a paint correction with a compound, polish, and wax should I avoid using the Wash and Wax product or would it really matter as the compound would strip any wax left on the car anyways? Or should I use the Deep Crystal?

[LSNAutoDetailing]

First question is do you intend on Iron-X Decon or Claybar the car.

I would use a straight out high lubricity wash product that doesn't contain waxes or filler, then clay the car to remove contaminants and create a smooth surface. Then compound/polish/wax-or-seal.

pg

[GLOCKer]

First question is do you intend on Iron-X Decon or Claybar the car.

I would use a straight out high lubricity wash product that doesn't contain waxes or filler, then clay the car to remove contaminants and create a smooth surface. Then compound/polish/wax-or-seal.

pg

I hadn't thought of claying the car. I clayed the car last about spring of last year, and since then, I've probably only added 2000 miles. The car is garage kept and brought out for shows and cruise-ins. I'd like to Iron X it soon, but I'm watching my budget (it's the spending time of year and my wife has an impending lay-off due to her company being acquired by a bigger fish :( ) and I haven't bought any Iron X yet.

The surface of my car looks great minus the micro-marring from the rare environmental exposure. When I hit it with a true DA for the first time, I plan on testing a section with Meguiar's Ultimate Polish first to see if that gives me the desired result without having to compound the whole car. If that works, I'll spot compound some scratches and such before going over the whole car with polish. But the surface looks relatively good and feels good with the "hair of the knuckle" test.

[FUNX650]

I use Meguiar's products on my car,
almost exclusively...
So onto my question.

If I'm preparing to do a paint correction
with a compound, polish, and wax should
I avoid using the Wash and Wax product
Yes.


Bob

[roguegeek]

I hadn't thought of claying the car. I clayed the car last about spring of last year, and since then, I've probably only added 2000 miles.

2000 miles is more than enough to pick up bonded contaminants. Do the baggy test after your initial wash and you'll see. Decon, or at least checking to see if you need it, should, IMO, be a normal part of your process.

[KMG]

You may be surprised once you actually strip off all the wax and glazes you have been using just what type of shape your paint is actually in. Odds are that once you start polishing you will notice your paint is not in nearly as good of shape as you thought, and you will likely have to polish the whole car and not just certain areas.