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kdubski
12-09-2015, 02:48 AM
Hey AG,

Did a brilliant black Audi A5 for a friend this weekend. Car was severely neglected to say the least. I was using Menz FG400 on a Sonax Lambskin Wool Pad on a Rotary. Needless to say, I did not get anywhere near good correction. In fact, most areas remained looking horrible. I am wondering if this lack of correction is due to not enough product or too short working time? I Usually use 4 drops of compound on a primed pad and work it at 1,800-2,000 RPM until it flashes/dries.

Here are some Before:



http://i67.tinypic.com/aka268.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/a586kw.jpg

http://i65.tinypic.com/kb3l1i.jpg

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Look close, you can see the dullness of the paint!


And one after + a 50/50 of the best looking panel:


http://i65.tinypic.com/2n1rm2f.jpg

http://i66.tinypic.com/r0d1e1.png

Feed back please

haris300
12-09-2015, 03:10 AM
How large are your work sections and how many passes are you getting before the product starts to dry up? I've dealt with some pretty hard clears but a rotary and a wool pad usually works out for me as long as I take my time and work in small sections.

kdubski
12-09-2015, 03:16 AM
How large are your work sections and how many passes are you getting before the product starts to dry up? I've dealt with some pretty hard clears but a rotary and a wool pad usually works out for me as long as I take my time and work in small sections.


So as you can see in the picture, I split the quarter panel into 3: top, front of wheel, rear of wheel.

Hood I split into 6: main panel into 4 sections and 2 sides.

Mike@DedicatedPerfection
12-09-2015, 03:21 AM
First off, cut that speed back to 900-1200rpm. The bottle of FG400 sates this.

Also, do you have other wool pads to try?

kdubski
12-09-2015, 03:25 AM
First off, cut that speed back to 900-1200rpm. The bottle of FG400 sates this.

Also, do you have other wool pads to try?

I try to follow this technique that I found on another forum:

http://i63.tinypic.com/9q8z5v.gif

Is it all that necessary to break down compounds/polish during cutting stage if it will be followed up with a polish?

This is my only wool pad. Usually LC Orange is my go to for cutting but I bought this for emergencies as shown above.

haris300
12-09-2015, 03:27 AM
First off, cut that speed back to 900-1200rpm. The bottle of FG400 sates this.

Also, do you have other wool pads to try?

Good advice. Totally overlooked this. Keep it at a low speed and you should be able to work the product longer without generating as much heat. It might take a little bit of patience but it can be done! I had a similar issue with some Corvette paint but my PE14 with an LC foamed wool pad and FG400 made quick work of the defects after around 6 passes on each work section. Oh and make sure you keep the wool fibers clean and fluffed up with a pad spur or brush. Caked up product in the pad can cause issues when correcting.

kdubski
12-09-2015, 03:47 AM
Good advice. Totally overlooked this. Keep it at a low speed and you should be able to work the product longer without generating as much heat. It might take a little bit of patience but it can be done! I had a similar issue with some Corvette paint but my PE14 with an LC foamed wool pad and FG400 made quick work of the defects after around 6 passes on each work section. Oh and make sure you keep the wool fibers clean and fluffed up with a pad spur or brush. Caked up product in the pad can cause issues when correcting.

I will take the speed into consideration for my next job in a few hours! It's a black Chevy Avalanche with an equally as hard clear coat.

Does blowing the pad with compressed air work as well as a spur/brush?

Also, how much product should I apply per panel when using wool? Usually on a foam pad I use 4 pea size drops, haven't had much practice with a wool yet though.

Thanks again for the advice, especially at this hour! You guys are life savers, especially because I've got a picky client coming in a few hours for a similar job!

AutowerxDetailing
12-09-2015, 04:22 AM
Rotary and wool had never worked well for me on that hard Audi paint. You just trade swirls for heavy holograms that take just as long to correct. We've been using a lot of m100 on MF cutting pads to level moderate to severe defects on this harder clear. Sometimes switching to cutting with m205 performs miracles as well.

haris300
12-09-2015, 07:19 AM
Compressed air is great for cleaning and fluffing up wool pads!


Rotary and wool had never worked well for me on that hard Audi paint. You just trade swirls for heavy holograms that take just as long to correct. We've been using a lot of m100 on MF cutting pads to level moderate to severe defects on this harder clear. Sometimes switching to cutting with m205 performs miracles as well.

Sounds like a worthy approach considering that you've had good luck with it. Are you using Meguiar's MF discs? Interesting about the cutting pad with M205 too. I'd like to give that a shot some time.

Audios S6
12-09-2015, 08:37 AM
Did you stop after the FG400 and rotary or did you further refine the finish? You can expect the rotary and wool to leave some of it's own swirls or holograms depending on the paint. Rotary is faster, but it's not instant gratification.

As for amount of product, follow MP's advice with a bead of product about the size of a pencil.

I have never found Audi Brilliant black to be that hard (and I work almost exclusively on audi paint). On the audi paint spectrum it is on the softer side, which is still substantially harder than japanese paint. Of course there are always some anomalies, maybe you got the hard one. I'll get mild to moderate defects out with M205 and rupes yellow. Heavy defects come out with fg400 and MF pads on a 21. For the severe condition you showed, I would jump right to a rotary, but for what you had left afterward m205 and rupes yellow should have no problem.

ScottH
12-09-2015, 10:11 AM
My wife has a 2012 Audi A4 with ROCK HARD clear as well. I too was having troubles getting it perfect. My best results came by way of LC Orange CCS pads and Pinnacle XMT Intermediate Swirl Remover #3 for pass one, followed by XMT Ultra Fine #1 as pass two, finished off with XMT Glaze. All with a DA (no rotary).

ScottH

LSNAutoDetailing
12-09-2015, 10:53 AM
I agree with others, unless fluent in Rotary, I would tend to lean towards foam pads on a DA and longer working time at a slower speed in smaller sections. It will take longer, but the results will be brilliant.

I have an Audi scheduled, and custy doesn't want full paint correction package, I'm curious as to how HD Speed w/ G-15 on LC CCS Orange test spot will yield.

Zubair
12-09-2015, 11:37 AM
I used M205 on a rotary recently and was blown away at the correction ability. What would have needed M105 on a DA only needed 205 on a rotary.

AGOatemywallet
12-09-2015, 11:46 AM
4 drops of compound on a large wool pad is probably not enough

You should be using a line of compound about the dimension of a pencil on an average working section

You absolutely need to spur your pad

RaskyR1
12-09-2015, 11:56 AM
Rotary and wool had never worked well for me on that hard Audi paint. You just trade swirls for heavy holograms that take just as long to correct. We've been using a lot of m100 on MF cutting pads to level moderate to severe defects on this harder clear. Sometimes switching to cutting with m205 performs miracles as well.

This! M205 and a few other compound cut very well on these paints with the large throw polishers and MF pads. With M205 you need to make sure you're using ample amounts of product though. :dblthumb2: