Please Help! Re: 303 Aerospace

[Frank56]

Please Help! Re: 303 Aerospace (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/96795-please-help-re-303-aerospace.html)


Hi, I hope someone can help me.

On the weekend I put 303 Aerospace Protectant on the dash of my Honda. I had read prodigiously about 303 and thought that it would be a good choice. I was looking for a non shiny protective matte look.

I did not buff it, just put it on as per instructions that I had read here and seen on Youtube.

To many horror, I have found that the dash is now really shiny and causes the whole dash to be reflected in the windshield. Yesterday I could barely see the road because of the glare. This was exactly what I wanted to avoid, which is why I never use Armor All.

I now have a potentially dangerous situation on sunny days and I am so upset at myself using 303.

Please, can anyone tell me a safe way to remove the 303?

I am worried that in trying to get rid of it I will know make things even worse and mess up my dash completely.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me. Frank Feed back please.

Thank you!


:dblthumb2:

[RPM_BR]

Diluted APC or mild, neutral detergent in a mf towel.

I also would use Sonax Plastic Cleaner, or Meguiar's 39.

[BucboyInPa]

I have a 2003 Honda Civic we use as a loaner car,an I dress the interior with 303 and it is shiny. It is just something about the material they use. It doesn't matter if I wipe it or dilute the dressing,the dash always turns out shiny.

[Jaretr1]

Use an all purpose cleaner, and or just buff it which should reduce some of the gloss.

[gski]

I apply 303 and then buff with a dry clothe. It always produces a nice matte look for me.

Usage Directions
Use only on clean surfaces. For best results use 303 Multi-Surface Cleaner. Place a drop cloth under the cleaner to be treated to catch any overspray.Out of direct sun, spray surface with 303 Aerospace Protectant and wipe completely dry. If streaking occurs, too much product has been used. Use a wet towel to remove excess, immediately wipe completely dry. Note: this product does not air dry. Extra buffing with a dry cloth increases bonding, repellency and longevity. We recommend re-applying 303 Aerospace Protectant every 3-5 weeks for maximum UV protection.

[Mike Phillips]

I apply 303 and then buff with a dry clothe. It always produces a nice matte look for me.

Usage Directions
Use only on clean surfaces. For best results use 303 Multi-Surface Cleaner.

Place a drop cloth under the cleaner to be treated to catch any overspray.

Out of direct sun, spray surface with 303 Aerospace Protectant and wipe completely dry.

If streaking occurs, too much product has been used. Use a wet towel to remove excess, immediately wipe completely dry.

Note: this product does not air dry.

Extra buffing with a dry cloth increases bonding, repellency and longevity.

We recommend re-applying 303 Aerospace Protectant every 3-5 weeks for maximum UV protection.




The above is correct.

There's something about the chemistry in the 303 product that the magic takes place when you buff the surface with a dry cloth.

I don't know what it is but I teach this in all my 3-day classes when we have a convertible with a vinyl top.

I also share this technique in my article here,

How To Restore and Protect a Vinyl Top using 303 Products (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/31874-how-restore-protect-vinyl-top-using-303-products.html)


:)

[Mike Phillips]

To Frank,

Below I'll sugest how to remove it but first a commnet....

The vinyl you and I grew up with, like the vinyl dash on a 1968 Chevelle or the vinyl seats in a 1966 Mustang is not the same type of "vinyl" being used in cars today.

Just like the phone I talk on is differnet than the phone I talked on 2 weeks ago technology keeps a chugging along and the chemistry used for car interiors is continually changing.

It might be called vinyl but it's not the same type of material we all used to apply Armor-All to 20 and 30 years ago.

The point being is it doesn't absorb well or at all and this means it's real easy to oversue any vinyl dressing.

It also doesn't react the same.

In some cases, the plastic/vinyl used in modern cars either made by the car manufacturer or an outside manufacture may contain a certain percentage of recycled plastics in order to comply with some type of environmental regulations or to appear to be politically correct.

For the above reasons, using a vinyl dressing, ANY company's vinyl dressing can be a real shot in the dark as far as performance goes and final appearance results.

Today more than ever it's a good practice to test a product out to a small area and then wait and see what happens before using the product over the entire surface.




Here's some suggestions....

First 303 Aerospace Protectant is a high quality product with a great company behind it. One thing you might try is to re-apply the same product as this should possibly act to re-liquefy the original application of product under the assumption that like dissolves like and THEN thoroughly wipe the surface dry using clean, dry microfiber towels.

I think I was even told to use a fast wiping motion to create a little dry friction, but I'd have to re-read the above article I linked to in order to be sure.


If this isn't an option then like mentioned, use a high quality All Purpose Cleaner meant for use in automotive interiors and dilute it to the proper dilution and then spray some onto a clean dry microfiber towel and then use the dampened microfiber towel to wipe the dash.

Don't rush and be gentle so you don't scar the vinyl surface.

What you don't want to do is make things worse by using too harsh or too strong of a cleaner or something out from under the kitchen sink because you could end up causing even more damage to whatever this material is made out of.


There are lots of APC's on the AG store but one that has a very strong reputation as being a very safe APC is

Optimum Power Clean All Purpose Cleaner (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-power-clean-apc.html)


If in doubt, perhaps give this product some consideration considering the risks of using something else.


:)

[Frank56]

Thank you Mike Phillips & all who responded.

While waiting for your help I phoned Gold Eagle. The fellow on the line told me that the reason it was shiny was because I had buffed it, which I hadn't.

He told me to use really hot water to get rid of it.

Not sure if he really knows.

The amount of shine is ridiculous and almost blinding at certain angles. I am kicking myself for using anything and of course my better half who told me to leave it alone is now saying "I told you so". :(

[DapperStyle]

Thank you Mike Phillips & all who responded.

While waiting for your help I phoned Gold Eagle. The fellow on the line told me that the reason it was shiny was because I had buffed it, which I hadn't.

He told me to use really hot water to get rid of it.

Not sure if he really knows.

The amount of shine is ridiculous and almost blinding at certain angles. I am kicking myself for using anything and of course my better half who told me to leave it alone is now saying "I told you so". :(

So..have you tried buffing it or are you just in full panic mode that you're going to crash your car? Grab a clean MF or Terry Cloth and try buffing it. Also with 303 you don't need a lot at all maybe if was a combination of over application and not buffing it.

[umana2482]

I'm thinking a wet microfiber towel or apc should work fine.

I like 303 and use it frequently, my method of applying is by a mequiars yellow foam pad. Easy to control how much product I use and control the look.

[Mike Phillips]

Thank you Mike Phillips & all who responded.

While waiting for your help I phoned Gold Eagle. The fellow on the line told me that the reason it was shiny was because I had buffed it, which I hadn't.



Sounds about right.

You can try buffing the surface or like I suggested, apply a "little" more to re-liquefy what's already there and THEN buff to a dry finish.






He told me to use really hot water to get rid of it.

Not sure if he really knows.



After I remove a worn out starter motor off an old Chevy truck my hands are black with the dirty, grimey oils sludge that builds up over time on classic cars.

I have the option to wash my hands with cold water and soap or hot water and soap and I always choose hot water because it helps to REMOVE the oily sludge ON my hands and IN the pores of my skin.

I think he gave you not only GOOD advice but also the SAFEST approach to remedy the situation.

Water is pretty safe. The next level down would be what I suggested and that was a weak dilution of a product already famous for being very safe.





The amount of shine is ridiculous and almost blinding at certain angles.

I am kicking myself for using anything and of course my better half who told me to leave it alone is now saying "I told you so". :(




At least you can fix the dash....


:D

[Frank56]

Well I followed the advice from Mike and it was marginally better. Still shiny and annoying, but perhaps not quite as dangerous.

The dash did not reflect as much in the windshield although it still gave off a lot of shine directly at me. The problem with my new Honda is that the dash is quite large, not narrow like many cars.

I then used hot water and it might have made a slight difference. Spent the better part of 3 hours trying to fix this issue. I'm so mad at myself for trying the 303 as I have only had the car a week. I should have left the dash alone.

I would not recommend 303 to anyone after my experience and I wish I had come across some warning about it in all my reading. I have since found a few posts online by people who have had the same problem, I guess I didn't put the right search terms into Google.

My only hope now is that this stuff will gradually fade. I have a long trip to California coming up which I was looking forward to. Now with my crappy shiny dash I am praying that the sun wont shine.

I can see myself having to buy those ugly dash mats at Walmart. What a disaster! Leaving to kick myself around the block. :(

[DapperStyle]

Well I followed the advice from Mike and it was marginally better. Still shiny and annoying, but perhaps not quite as dangerous.

The dash did not reflect as much in the windshield although it still gave off a lot of shine directly at me. The problem with my new Honda is that the dash is quite large, not narrow like many cars.

I then used hot water and it might have made a slight difference. Spent the better part of 3 hours trying to fix this issue. I'm so mad at myself for trying the 303 as I have only had the car a week. I should have left the dash alone.

I would not recommend 303 to anyone after my experience and I wish I had come across some warning about it in all my reading. I have since found a few posts online by people who have had the same problem, I guess I didn't put the right search terms into Google.

My only hope now is that this stuff will gradually fade. I have a long trip to California coming up which I was looking forward to. Now with my crappy shiny dash I am praying that the sun wont shine.

I can see myself having to buy those ugly dash mats at Walmart. What a disaster! Leaving to kick myself around the block. :(

Did you try any all purpose cleaner diluted for interior use?

[Frank56]

Did you try any all purpose cleaner diluted for interior use?

Yes.

Just went for a drive as it is really sunny out. Not much of an improvement at all. The dash shine reflects right at me.

Why I had to go looking around the internet to see what to put on the dash is beyond me.

I feel sick!!

303 needs a big warning label on the bottle!

[7PaintGuns]

Thats odd I use hot water with Meguiars APC at 10:1 to prevent build up from time to time and the shine all but dissappears.