When to do what? Need help!

[jmp4golfvw]

For some reason as I'm formulating my plan of attack to winterize and decontaminate my black, 2015 VW Golf TSI, I was struck with a terrible case of brain flatulence [emoji100]lol. Last week you all helped me on what to use to protect my ride, sealant, etc...i got some really good direction, thank you. So, I'm humbly reaching out to you "Geeks" once more before I tackle this project...

Ok, I'm using a tar/iron remover and clay to decontaminate my paint. I can't remember the best way to approach this: wash, iron-x, clay, wash, tar, etc...Do I iron-x and tar remover, then foam up and wash, clay bar...

(should I use something between clay-ing the car and the sealant, like a cleaner, or IPA wipe to make sure clean clear surface for sealant?)

...then the sealant, let cure (24-48 hours), wash and top with second coat of sealant. Then for depth and warmth I can layer a nice carnauba over that...that sound worthy or over-kill? I appreciate all your input, let me hear it [emoji6] oh and what are your thoughts on using a clay mit, or whatever they're called?

P.S. It's absolutely beautiful here in lovely
Western NC...perfect day to start! [emoji274]

[Paul A.]

I like to wash the car fully before decontamination i.e. a good 2 bucket wash (or in my case, 1 bucket and a foam gun). I then use Iron X before hitting it with my nanoskin mitt. If you need to de-tar i would do that either first or second (after a good wash) but before claying. Just my preference however my point here is that i don't want to gunk up either my nanoskin mitt or clay pieces with tar if it can be removed with TarX.

I love my nanoskin mitt and many here are using the nano pad on their DA's. I still have a piece or two of clay handy for tough to reach areas for the mitt.

I would recommend at least an iso alcohol wipedown before you apply a sealant. In all the steps to get to the LSP, you might have left something somewhere on the paint to clean off. I like Car Pro Eraser for that function.

Give your sealant the mftr recommended cure time and if you want a second layer, have at it. I don't top my sealants anymore with a wax.

And it's absolutely stunningly beautiful here in west central FL too. Isn't it awesome to do this stuff in nice weather?

[jmp4golfvw]

I like to wash the car fully before decontamination i.e. a good 2 bucket wash (or in my case, 1 bucket and a foam gun). I then use Iron X before hitting it with my nanoskin mitt. If you need to de-tar i would do that either first or second (after a good wash) but before claying. Just my preference however my point here is that i don't want to gunk up either my nanoskin mitt or clay pieces with tar if it can be removed with TarX.

I love my nanoskin mitt and many here are using the nano pad on their DA's. I still have a piece or two of clay handy for tough to reach areas for the mitt.

I would recommend at least an iso alcohol wipedown before you apply a sealant. In all the steps to get to the LSP, you might have left something somewhere on the paint to clean off. I like Car Pro Eraser for that function.

Give your sealant the mftr recommended cure time and if you want a second layer, have at it. I don't top my sealants anymore with a wax.

And it's absolutely stunningly beautiful here in west central FL too. Isn't it awesome to do this stuff in nice weather?


First off thank you very much for the detailed response...though I will say I'm a bit surprised that out of 120 something views and you're the only one who responded lol. Though yours was more than thorough, I believe one reply will do [emoji6]

Thanks again!

[Paul A.]

Don't mention it, glad to help!

[GSKR]

For some reason as I'm formulating my plan of attack to winterize and decontaminate my black, 2015 VW Golf TSI, I was struck with a terrible case of brain flatulence [emoji100]lol. Last week you all helped me on what to use to protect my ride, sealant, etc...i got some really good direction, thank you. So, I'm humbly reaching out to you "Geeks" once more before I tackle this project...

Ok, I'm using a tar/iron remover and clay to decontaminate my paint. I can't remember the best way to approach this: wash, iron-x, clay, wash, tar, etc...Do I iron-x and tar remover, then foam up and wash, clay bar...

(should I use something between clay-ing the car and the sealant, like a cleaner, or IPA wipe to make sure clean clear surface for sealant?)

...then the sealant, let cure (24-48 hours), wash and top with second coat of sealant. Then for depth and warmth I can layer a nice carnauba over that...that sound worthy or over-kill? I appreciate all your input, let me hear it [emoji6] oh and what are your thoughts on using a clay mit, or whatever they're called?

P.S. It's absolutely beautiful here in lovely
Western NC...perfect day to start! [emoji274]

That sounds like overkill,keep it simple wash then clay then use a durable wax like collinite,forget about all that curing time with a sealant and iPa wipe down its a 2015 car yes it may need a little polishing here and there but it deosnt have to be a 3 day job.wax all the wheels door jambs.and at the end of the day you spent 8 hrs or less with the same benefit as a 2 or three 3 day non logical overkill process.but it's your car and you will decide on which route to pick good luck and have fun.

[GSKR]

Forgot one thing on a black car just clay gently,don't start spraying iron x and tar removers and alcohol,you will take all the existing gloss off the car,I never take away just add to it.that whole process with iron x and iPa and going to the extreme is for a paint coating procedure.

[Mike Phillips]

Ok, I'm using a tar/iron remover and clay to decontaminate my paint.

I can't remember the best way to approach this:
wash,
iron-x,
clay,
wash,
tar,

etc...


Do I iron-x and tar remover, then foam up and wash, clay bar...



I have this article here,

What is Iron X and why should I use it? (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/87430-what-iron-x-why-should-i-use.html)


Here's one picture from the above thread... (the entire article is a good read)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=82617&size=1




In the second post in the above thread I outline the order I use...



The normal order to use Iron X

This is how I use Iron X. You can modify this approach to suit your own tastes.


1. Spray car down with Iron X and let it dwell for a few minutes but not long enough to dry on the car.

2. Foam car using foam gun

3. Wash car using microfiber chenille wash mitt and assoted brushes.

4. After rinsing thoroughly, mechanically decontaminate the paint using products intended for this step by Nanoskin or Optimum Polymer Technologies.

5. Rinse car thoroughly.

6. Dry car.


The above is how I wash a car before I'm going to machine buff the paint. Each step is crucial to a proper detail.

Just to note, I always wash the wheels and tires first and then wash the car. To see my approach for washing the wheels on any car see this article.

How to wash Ferrari Wheels and Tires (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/81145-how-wash-ferrari-wheels-tires.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=76961

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

[Mike Phillips]

Also just to note...

If you're going to remove tar off of the car this would be the very first thing you do. You don't want to get tar on your wash mitt so remove it first and the follow the steps I outline above.


For what it's worth...

Anytime I use detailing clay or any type of Nanoskin product to mechanically decontaminate paint I have already planned on and included for the project to do at least one machine polishing step to remove any marring caused by the claying and decontaminating process.


That's my way... everyone can come up with their own approach to suit their own needs...



:)

[Mike Phillips]

Forgot one thing on a black car just clay gently,



Good advice. Also use plenty of clay lube and re-knead your clay often.

Clearcoat paints are hard and scratch easily. So use due caution but this is also why I always include at least one machine polishing step even if it's using a one step cleaner/wax and I have an article about that here,

High quality production detailing by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/76337-high-quality-production-detailing-mike-phillips.html)






don't start spraying iron x and tar removers and alcohol,you will take all the existing gloss off the car



What if the car needs a good cleaning and polishing?

If it does then chemically decontaminating the paint is like car insurance. You don't want it but if you need it then you're glad you have it.

Again from this article,

What is Iron X and why should I use it? (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/87430-what-iron-x-why-should-i-use.html)


What is Iron X?
Iron X is a product used to chemically remove iron particles off your car by dissolving the particles.


Why should I use it?
Chemically decontaminating the paint with a product like Iron X is part of a proper detail job especially when working on an older car that is parked outside.

Mechanically decontaminating the paint can remove some iron contamination as you are physically rubbing something against the paint, tools like detailing clay or products from Nanoskin and Optimum Polymer Technologies. These options are no where near as effective and thorough as chemically removing the iron contamination.


Car Insurance Analogy
Using Iron X is like buying car insurance. While you never want to actually have to need to use car insurance you certainly appreciate having when its is needed.

When you use Iron X you don't' actually want to see the bleeding effect as this means your car is contaminated and contamination means deterioration has been taking place. That's not a good thing. It's better to use it and see nothing as that means your car was not contaminated. That's a good thing.

If your car is contaminated then Iron X is the first step in a two step process to decontaminate the paint and properly prepare the paint for machine or hand polishing.


My buddy Jay detailed this car for his sister after she bought it from the original owner.

The original owner parked it next to a sprinkler that covered the car with heavy iron contaminated water for years.


Look closely.... it's not just the paint that is bleeding it's also the glass and plastic surfaces which are bleeding red. This is a sign of extreme iron contamination.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=82615&size=1






I never take away just add to it.



I teach and practice what I call working forwards in the process, never backwards, that is everything you do should always be making the paint look better and better, never worse and worse but sometimes part of working forwards in the process means building the foundation upon which to build and in context this would include doing a proper washing job.

I also teach in my classes two methods of washing a car,

The aggressive method
This is how you wash a car BEFORE a detailing session where you're going to buff out the paint.

The gentle method
This is how you wash a car AFTER you have buffed out and sealed the paint.

I have an article on the aggressive method here,

The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/86146-aggressive-approach-washing-car.html)



And a video on the both methods in my Auto Detailing Certification Course on our Roku channel.

Introducing Autogeek Network on Roku! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/company-forum-news-headlines/96162-introducing-autogeek-network-roku.html)







that whole process with iron x and iPa and going to the extreme is for a paint coating procedure.



Love you like a brother Jeff but I disagree. While I'm not a fan of wiping paint down with IPA even though I wrote the article on how to do it I am a fan of using Iron X on cars that need to be machine buffed and in fact I use Iron X on my truck and my wife's car each time I wash them.

I always see the bleeding effect even though it's very light. My goal is to stay on top of it so I never see it overly contaminated again.

And for coatings... I like them. I keep the wife's car coated however I do use a one-step cleaner/wax on my truck but that's because for my truck it makes sense.

Plus machine waxing my truck is fast and easy as there's no trim to tape off and since it sits on 40" tall tires I never have to bend over or get low. I can literally machine apply a cleaner/wax about as fast as I can do a slow walk around the truck.

Waxed and wiped in about 30 minutes.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Here's another thread with some good info...


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/76202-how-use-iron-x.html



:xyxthumbs:

[GSKR]

Your correct in every post,when he mentioned overkill I was getting the impression that how can I winterized my brand new car the most easiest and beneficial way,without spending a ton of time on it,I just gave him a simple alternative method as if he didn't need to do all those steps.Your correct building a foundation and using all the steps is the most correct way if you have ample time.

[GSKR]

I can't believe that guy is using no mask and barefoot.

[jmp4golfvw]

First off thank you very much for the detailed response...though I will say I'm a bit surprised that out of 120 something views and you're the only one who responded lol. Though yours was more than thorough, I believe one reply will do [emoji6]

Thanks again!

Wow a little guilt goes a long way lol. Woke up this a.m. and went from one previous response to having many in depth replies...then to top it off "the man" himself, Mike Phillips responded, thanks Mike!


That sounds like overkill,keep it simple wash then clay then use a durable wax like collinite,forget about all that curing time with a sealant and iPa wipe down its a 2015 car yes it may need a little polishing here and there but it deosnt have to be a 3 day job.wax all the wheels door jambs.and at the end of the day you spent 8 hrs or less with the same benefit as a 2 or three 3 day non logical overkill process.but it's your car and you will decide on which route to pick good luck and have fun.


Forgot one thing on a black car just clay gently,don't start spraying iron x and tar removers and alcohol,you will take all the existing gloss off the car,I never take away just add to it.that whole process with iron x and iPa and going to the extreme is for a paint coating procedure.

Thanks for your tips GSKR! I do have a tendency to get carried away...[emoji6] I did need the tar remover on my wheels though. The barrels had a good amount of tar inside them, but do understand what u meant about just spraying these chemicals willy nilly (lol) all over the paint. Walked around inspecting the areas where tar could come off the tires onto the paint (only found 1 spot) keeping me from having to apply it liberally...Tar is hard to find though on my car, being black paint and all [emoji6] thanks again...

[GSKR]

No promblem enjoy the car.