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Klasse Act
10-31-2015, 01:38 PM
I'll NEVER use one bucket again, ever!

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Rmd
10-31-2015, 01:48 PM
I'll NEVER use one bucket again, ever!

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I use one bucket, but would never use only one mitt/towel. I still can't get my head around putting dirty media into the bucket of solution. Mike P has probably forgotten more about detailing than I'll ever know, so it's a preference thing.

Klasse Act
10-31-2015, 02:38 PM
I use one bucket, but would never use only one mitt/towel. I still can't get my head around putting dirty media into the bucket of solution. Mike P has probably forgotten more about detailing than I'll ever know, so it's a preference thing.
It's true what you said about Mike P for sure, no doubt about it but if your saying you use 1 bucket but multiple wash mitts and/or wash media then that's fine because it's basically the GD method. That said, no one can convince me that re-inserting dirty wash media into the wash media is a good idea, even if you do scrub said media on the grit guard grill, sorry.

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spewking
10-31-2015, 04:25 PM
It's true what you said about Mike P for sure, no doubt about it but if your saying you use 1 bucket but multiple wash mitts and/or wash media then that's fine because it's basically the GD method. That said, no one can convince me that re-inserting dirty wash media into the wash media is a good idea, even if you do scrub said media on the grit guard grill, sorry.

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So what is your alternative method, if I might ask?

Klasse Act
10-31-2015, 05:19 PM
I do it 1 of 2 ways:

2BM with the Aqua sponge and always pre-treat

or...

GD method with 1 bucket, soaking the mf towels and always pre-treating.

I just don't know how anyone could put a dirty wash media into the cleaning solution bucket, scrapping it off on the grit guard and getting back to it. It makes the most sense to me to only enter the cleaning solution bucket to either A. pull out a soaking clean mf towel or the wash media cleaned in the plain water bucket #2 and that's it.

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Rmd
10-31-2015, 08:34 PM
It's true what you said about Mike P for sure, no doubt about it but if your saying you use 1 bucket but multiple wash mitts and/or wash media then that's fine because it's basically the GD method. That said, no one can convince me that re-inserting dirty wash media into the wash media is a good idea, even if you do scrub said media on the grit guard grill, sorry.

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Its exactly the GDWM from his first videos. I pre-spray panels with the solution mixed slightly stronger than RW strength, or at WW strength if product can be used for both (have used most out there, currently using D114 with no complaints, but just ordered the WG product to check it out). Then wipe in one direction with wet green 600 gsm towels from MFT, second pass with MM 800 towels wrung out as much as possible, then drying pass with slightly dampened WW towel. Safe and easy.

7.3powerstroke
10-31-2015, 09:58 PM
Great review with great pictures.
3 questions Mike:
Which wash method do you use the most now days? Waterless/rinseless/traditional?

When doing a rinseless wash, do you ever incorporate claying with the wash process? Wash, clay, dry? Or you could go around the car and wash without drying, then clay using solution in a spray bottle as lube. That would eliminate a drying step.

Have you done chemical decontamination with a rinseless/waterless wash?

blown03
11-01-2015, 05:57 AM
This question was asked I think but not answered , is it Coating safe as it wont effect the life span or Hydrophobic properties of coatings no matter their chemical make up ? For example , UWW+ is said to leave polymers behind that can/do /may effect the coating's sheeting ability . Its my present go to but if WG RW is coating safe , we may be changing to it ......Hope I made sense .... Thanks for the Awesome write up Mike P. Love those wheels on that Dart .

silverfox
11-01-2015, 08:09 AM
If using this product on the WG coating, I would assume no problem. I'd always stay within the family with any coating including wash products, polishes, boosters and prep wipe down products. No exceptions. Coatings are ultra sensitive to cross products I have found despite their claims of being impenetrable or immune to everything.

Klasse Act
11-01-2015, 08:31 AM
If using this product on the WG coating, I would assume no problem. I'd always stay within the family with any coating including wash products, polishes, boosters and prep wipe down products. No exceptions. Coatings are ultra sensitive to cross products I have found despite their claims of being impenetrable or immune to everything.
I'm not questioning you per say but if a coating can last 1-5 yrs why would a competitors product hurt it? I mean it's to protect your cars finish for 1-5 years and I'd think a cleaning product would be better than what Mother Nature is going to throw at it compared to another rinseless or waterless wash could, plus those other brands are cleaning the paint, not destroying it.

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conman1395
11-01-2015, 10:41 AM
Mike, can you please chime in on the use of one bucket rinseless?

Mike Phillips
11-01-2015, 10:49 AM
Hey everyone thanks for all the comments, feedback and questions....

As I type this I'm in my hotel room getting ready to head over to the SEMA Convention Center so can't really do a lot of typing and answering of questions and comments, just too much going on. For example after helping to set up the booth I have a meeting with the Producer for our TV show and a meeting with A.J.

That said, I did read some of the comments about only using one bucket.


Here's the deal...

I was washing this car to get it ready to buff out. So my primary concern was to remove loose dirt and there was some type of black dust all over the entire car.

My concern was not to wash carefully but to wash thoroughly.

Kind of like in my how to books and in my classes I teach two methods for the traditional car wash,


The aggressive method
The gentle method

One method is for cleaning a car BEFORE you machine compound and polish the pant and one method is for cars you have already compounded, polished and sealed.

There is a difference in the how and the why for these two methods.

I also cover this in-depth in my training videos on our new Roku channel.


After using the rinseless wash to clean this Dodge Dart I then used a Nanoskin Pad to mechanically decontaminate the paint and then I compounded and polished the paint and then machine waxed it.

Hope that helps to explain why I only used one bucket.



Just to note...
After doing this type of show car detailing to a car like this moving into the future I would normally use a waterless wash to cleaner her up with LOTS of microfiber towels as that's how I normally like to treat cars like this.

If I were to use a rinseless wash I would use the method I show in my 3-day classes.


:)

conman1395
11-06-2015, 05:50 PM
What exactly is left behind with this product? Is it like ONR where it's just glossing agents and some QD level protection to make it feel slick?

My only gripe with D114 (and it's only a gripe sometimes because other times it is desirable) is that buffing the last bit off makes the towel not glide easily over the paint depending on LSP or if it's bare paint.

I have Cquartz and normally do a rinseless with DG Rinseless Wash with Aquawax but I feel like the Aquawax attracts dust slightly more dust than the Cquartz alone (washed with D114). I almost always use 3 gallons and ask debating between this and UWW+.

Klasse Act
11-07-2015, 01:17 AM
I finally got this product today and its the best rinseless wash I've ever used...period:dblthumb2:

Bunky
11-07-2015, 07:16 AM
I finally got this product today and its the best rinseless wash I've ever used...period:dblthumb2:

Which ones have you used and what did you like most about it?