Review & How-To: Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Paint Coating

[Redline8k]

Mike, I have a 2014 deep impact blue mustang and have purchased a Wolfgang deep gloss total concours kit that included the auto bathe, clay and spray, polish enhancer, sealant 3.0, detail spritz and Fuzion wax. I haven't gotten around to using the sealant, wax or clay yet. My problem is the car gets dusty between drives and Im starting to get light swirls. I wish I would have known about these coatings before...LOL. OK so my question is will all the reading Ive been doing what is the best product? Wolf gang ceramic coating, Polish Angel cosmic or Chemical guys carbon v9. all seem to be easy to apply and have good reviews for each. What actually makes one better than another? I know this is a broad question and please move this if its not in the correct place. Another question I have is will the WGDGP3 protect against scratches and swirls but for just not as long? I haven't coated my car purposely for anticipation of a coating not a sealant...Overall goal is to have a easy to clean car with minimized chances of swirls or scratches...
thanks
-nick

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, I have a 2014 deep impact blue mustang and have purchased a Wolfgang deep gloss total concours kit that included the auto bathe, clay and spray, polish enhancer, sealant 3.0, detail spritz and Fuzion wax.

I haven't gotten around to using the sealant, wax or clay yet.

My problem is the car gets dusty between drives and Im starting to get light swirls.

I wish I would have known about these coatings before...LOL.

OK so my question is will all the reading Ive been doing what is the best product? Wolf gang ceramic coating, Polish Angel cosmic or Chemical guys carbon v9. all seem to be easy to apply and have good reviews for each.


What actually makes one better than another?



Great question and here's the deal... at this point in time, as long as you choose a brand with a great reputation for quality then the product will perform as advertised.

As for which one is better? That's personal preference for the most part.

And here's the BIG PICTURE

NO MATTER WHAT BRAND COATING YOU USE - YOU STILL HAVE TO WASH AND "TOUCH" THE PAINT CAREFULLY

Coatings don't put an invisible forcefield around your car even though we all wish this were true.

I tell you one thing... I see the 1951 Mercury at a lot of the local car shows and it always looks great.





Another question I have is will the WGDGP3 protect against scratches and swirls but for just not as long?

I haven't coated my car purposely for anticipation of a coating not a sealant...Overall goal is to have a easy to clean car with minimized chances of swirls or scratches...
thanks
-nick


The WGDGP# or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 is a GREAT synthetic paint sealant that leaves a super slick surface with a deep wet shine that everyone loves and this is why this product has such a strong and loyal following.

A paint coating will last longer than a wax or a sealant and it will help to create a self-cleaning and self rinsing or drying effect which will make washing and drying faster.

A quality coating will also help to prevent some swirls and scratches but you still have to wash, dry and touch the paint carefully.


:)

[Heartsoulauto]

For mobile detailers, coating with WG: if it rains on the way home for someone before the 12 hour cure what would be the negative effects? Water spots, unprotected panels? Shortened life span of the coating?

[Mike Phillips]

For mobile detailers, coating with WG:

if it rains on the way home for someone before the 12 hour cure what would be the negative effects?

Water spots, unprotected panels? Shortened life span of the coating?




The 12 hour cure time is a "Window of Time" generalization for perfect conditions in a perfect world.

Sad to say... we don't live in a perfect world.


I wouldn't think there would be any huge negative effects if at least a half hour to an hour has passed after wiping off any high spots.

It's best for ANY coating, wax or synthetic paint sealant to not get wet or get caught in the rain after application, not just Wolfgang's coating.


So do your best and if it happens, and you're around to softy wipe off the rain drop spots then do so...



Rain, working in wet climates is tough on mobile detailing.


Try to use an owner's garage for real important cars.



:)

[C5Longhorn]

Mike,

I put on WG Uber Ceramic about two weeks ago on my red Viper and unfortunately got some high spots that I now realize was due to inadequate lighting and trying to do too large of an area. My plan to rectify (from least to most aggressive) is:

1) Attempt to remove high spots by hand with AIO polish
2) Use M205 on white thinpro pad with GG 3" polisher
3) Use M205 on orange thinpro pad with GG 3" polisher
4) Use M105 or GG Fast Correcting cream on orange thinpro pad with GG 3" polisher
5) Use WG Perfekt Cleaner and recoat area

Do I need to polish the entire panel or just the section around the high spot? Any other general tips or things to be aware of? I'm happy with the product but want to get the blemishes off so it's perfect.

Thanks,

Rick

[Mike Phillips]

Mike,

I put on WG Uber Ceramic about two weeks ago on my red Viper and unfortunately got some high spots that I now realize was due to inadequate lighting and trying to do too large of an area. My plan to rectify (from least to most aggressive) is:

1) Attempt to remove high spots by hand with AIO polish
2) Use M205 on white thinpro pad with GG 3" polisher
3) Use M205 on orange thinpro pad with GG 3" polisher
4) Use M105 or GG Fast Correcting cream on orange thinpro pad with GG 3" polisher
5) Use WG Perfekt Cleaner and recoat area

Do I need to polish the entire panel or just the section around the high spot? Any other general tips or things to be aware of? I'm happy with the product but want to get the blemishes off so it's perfect.

Thanks,

Rick


Hi Rick,

I would try the M205 by machine and skip the use of an AIO.

AIO is a cleaner/wax by any other name. This means it's cleaning and waxing at the same time. Thus you would have to remove not only the polishing oils but also the wax.

If you use just a polish, (M205), then you just need to remove the polishing oils.

I'd just to spot repair, that is clean off a high spot, strip the paint in that area, apply the Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Paint Coating to the affected area and/or the panel.



:)

[C5Longhorn]

Thanks Mike, much appreciated.

[Heartsoulauto]

The 12 hour cure time is a "Window of Time" generalization for perfect conditions in a perfect world.

Sad to say... we don't live in a perfect world.


I wouldn't think there would be any huge negative effects if at least a half hour to an hour has passed after wiping off any high spots.

It's best for ANY coating, wax or synthetic paint sealant to not get wet or get caught in the rain after application, not just Wolfgang's coating.


So do your best and if it happens, and you're around to softy wipe off the rain drop spots then do so...



Rain, working in wet climates is tough on mobile detailing.


Try to use an owner's garage for real important cars.



:)

Thank you

[FLG37]

Mike, my car (2017 Mustang GT...metallic white...1700 miles...garage kept) is only 2 months old. I applied the Griott's paint sealant 2 weeks after I bought it. I did the flashlight test, and there are no visible swirl marks. Will I get any noticeable improvement from using a finishing glaze before applying the Uber Coating considering that my car is practically brand new? I plan on washing, claying the entire car to remove any lingering debris on the paint, then using the Perfect Paint Prep. Is that good, or should I apply a finishing glaze with a polisher before the coating?

Also, is there any particular car wash soap or detailer spray that will help extend the durability and longevity of the coating?

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, my car (2017 Mustang GT...metallic white...1700 miles...garage kept) is only 2 months old.



Since this is your first post to our forum,

Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:






I applied the Griott's paint sealant 2 weeks after I bought it. I did the flashlight test, and there are no visible swirl marks.

Will I get any noticeable improvement from using a finishing glaze before applying the Uber Coating considering that my car is practically brand new?



This is just my opinion, and I recently shared it here,

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/108823-advice-lincoln-zephyr.html


Here's the question,





With that said, the paint is flawless. It really only needs a wash and wax. I'll hit the interior, trunk and engine compartment too. Cost isn't an issue. So the fact that this car has an enormous amount of painted surface and will take ages to wax isn't an issue. Also, it doesn't have to look great forever, just for a couple months. I think that coating the car is way more than is necessary. Using a product like Hydro2 would make the car look great and it would be easy to clean up when it rolls off the truck at the auction. But it's an old school car and something tells me that I should go old school and wax it.

This is right up your alley, Mike. Do I wax it or use something else like Hydro2?

Bill





Here is what I wrote,




Very cool car. I worked on the original called Scrape.


While it may and probably does look great... nothing looks as good as a freshly machine polished and waxed car.

Machine polishing will amp up the gloss on all of the gloss points and gloss panels. (I cover this in my how-to book).




So to answer you, "yes" in my opinion if you really want to do it right, and you want the paint to look it's best, then machine polish the paint using a fine cut polish.

The Wolfgang Finishing Glaze is NOT a glaze. It is a fine cut polish. It would be a perfect polish to prep the paint for a coating.

Remember, if you use any machine or even hand applied polish, afterwards you're supposed to chemically strip the paint before applying the coating.

I think there are some exceptions to this rule for example the review I just posted for the Gyeon compound, polish and primer, the primer leaves paint prepped for a coating and it is a fine cut polish too.








I plan on washing, using Griott's paint prep to remove wax, then claying the entire car to remove any lingering debris on the paint. Is that good, or should I apply a finishing glaze with a polisher before the coating?



See what I wrote above...





Also, is there any particular car wash soap or detailer spray that will help extend the durability and longevity of the coating?



Yes.

Watch for my NEW Gtechniq product review today. I loved this new product.


:)

[Klasse Act]

Paint coating goes on bare paint, like after decon and polishing. Glaze isn't needed on a new car.

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

[kevincwelch]

New Gtechniq product? Exciting!

(Sent via my mobile device...)

[FLG37]

Thanks Mike! Sounds like I'll go ahead and use the finishing glaze as well. Even if I apply the finishing glaze, I should still use the Perfect Paint spray before the coating correct?

[FLG37]

Actually the Griots 6" polisher comes with an 8oz bottle of Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish as a free gift...I'm assuming I could use that instead of the Wolfgang finishing glaze

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks Mike! Sounds like I'll go ahead and use the finishing glaze as well. Even if I apply the finishing glaze, I should still use the Perfect Paint spray before the coating correct?



Yes.

The Perfekt Paint Prep should be used after any polishes. By the way, the Wolfgang Perfekt Paint Prep is easy to use and smells great! Smells like Bubble Gum if I remember correctly.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=101322

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=101323





Just be sure to have plenty of microfiber towels and inspect them to make sure they are debris-free before use.


The Robert DiTerlizzi Method (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/79586-robert-diterlizzi-method.html)


This is a technique my buddy Robert shared with me and I like it so much I show it at all my classes and always give him due credit as I don't steal other guys stuff.

After you've done all the hard work the last thing you want to do is to put any swirls or scratches back into the paint. Now I wash all the microfiber towels we use here at the garage myself and I'm very meticulous and careful about the entire washing and drying process because the last thing I want to have happen is for Max to come out here to get a few microfiber towels to work on his cars and have some kind of contaminant in the towel.

That said, before using any microfiber towel it's important to inspect it two ways.


Visually Inspect
First look closely at the towel, especially if the towel has a plush nap and inspect for any type of foreign contaminant that might be lodged in the nap. If discovered either remove the contaminant or get a different towel.


Tactically Inspect
Second, take your clean hand and run it over the face of the towel on both sides. Often times your sense of touch will detect foreign particles or contaminants that your eyes cannot see. If discovered, remove the contaminant or get a different towel.

Do this for each towel. It only takes a few seconds to inspect your towels and it can save you a lot of heartache.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2241/1959_Iimpala_Red_072.jpg


RDM = the Robert DiTerlizzi Method


Thanks Robert and for everyone reading this into the future, if you're not inspecting your microfiber towels by feeling EACH ONE before you wipe down something you've been buffing out all day long then start!


Due credit where credit is due...










Actually the Griots 6" polisher comes with an 8oz bottle of Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish as a free gift...

I'm assuming I could use that instead of the Wolfgang finishing glaze



Yes. The Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish is also a "fine cut polish". It's actually a great product.

:)