Mike Phillips
09-29-2015, 09:37 AM
How to restore paint on a 1984 Chevy Silverado
I get e-mails, PM's and FB messages all the time with questions that are better asked and then answered on this forum for a host of reason. One reason is more eyeballs see the questions and answers so more people are helped versus one set of eyeballs in an e-mail, PM or FB message.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hi Mike,
My father passed away last October and he left me his Chevy that I really want to make look as good as I can. I have tried clay bar, and all kinds of compounds and waxes, but the paint still looks really oxidized.
It is maroon and is in the Texas sun all day because I don’t have a cover for it.
Can you please recommend to me the best possible solution to get the paint to look as good as possible again?
My dad loved this old truck and I know he would be really happy if I was able to make it shine like new again.
Thank you very much for any help you may be able to offer,
David
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hi David,
First, I'm sorry to hear that your father has passed away. Stay positive and continue living a life that would make him proud.
As for the paint on the Chevy truck. Assuming this is the original paint and so far you have not had any luck using traditional compounds and polishes, if it were me I would rub this paint down using some Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze.
Get yourself some clean, cotton terry cloth wash cloths and using a LOT of the Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze and some elbow grease, start rubbing that paint down and massage the oils in the #7 into the paint.
Like I show in this how-to article
4 Steps to restore single paint paint - 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/66800-4-steps-restore-single-paint-paint-1972-mercedes-benz-280-se.html)
Yesterday, a gentleman named Wayne in West Palm Beach called me to ask me about how to go about saving the ALL ORIGINAL paint on his 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE. He had recently purchased this car with 41,000 original miles.
He told me the paint was oxidized, especially the hood, trunk and roof. He also told me he took it to a local body shop where he was told the paint couldn't be saved but they could repaint it for around $2000.00 but this would not include removing all the chrome and stainless steel trim, nor the bumpers or emblems, basically an entry level paint job.
Wayne Carini "Chasing Classic Cars"
Wayne told me he saw Autogeek on Chasing Classic Cars (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/64383-mike-phillips-chasing-classic-cars-wayne-carini.html) with Wayne Carini and how I restored the original paint on the 1953 Hudson Hornet for Wayne Carini.
That would be this segment...
Mike Phillips and Wayne Carini on "Chasing...
I explained that I have an article on how to restore antique single stage paint and not only have I used this technique now for decades, but others have used it very successfully to save an preserve the original paint on antique and classic cars, including the original paint on muscle cars from the 1960's and 1970's.
I invited him to bring his Mercedes-Benz to Autogeek and this morning I shared with him 4-steps to restore the original paint. This is the exact same procedure I used on Wayne Carini's 1953 Hudson.
Step 1
Rub the paint down with a heavy, or wet application of Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze using a terry cloth wash cloth. Put some passion behind the pad and then let the oils in the #7 soak overnight or for as long as possible so they can migrate "into" the paint. I cover this in my article (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html) and show pictures of how it works. #7 is non-abrasive, but it is the unique polishing oils that have been around in this product since the time of the Model T, and thus since the time single stage automotive paints were invented that revive the paint and bring out the original, full richness of color. After the paint has soaked in the #7, remove it.
Step 2
Machine polish the paint using Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover. It's key to use the highest quality abrasive technology you can obtain so as to effectively remove all the oxidation, (not removed by the terry cloth while rubbing in the #7), and to also remove or reduce as many of the swirls and scratches as possible. Try to use a foam polishing pad to be extra gentle to the paint but if needed, use a more aggressive pad. Keep in mind, antique, original single stage paints will tend to be brittle and abrade easily, so use the least aggressive pad and/or products to get the job done. We used the Lake Country 5.5" and 6.5" white, flat polishing pads. Wayne used the Porter Cable and I used the Flex 3401. After applying the polish immediately remove using soft microfiber towels.
Step 3
Machine polish the paint using the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish. For this switch to a foam "finishing" pad. We used the Lake Country 5.5" and 6.5" black flat finishing pads. After applying the polish immediately remove using soft microfiber towels.
Step 4
Machine apply a show car quality finishing wax like Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax. It's important to use a non-abrasive finishing wax, not a cleaner/wax of any type. I use Pinnacle Souveran on a lot of the show cars I buff out as you don't have to let it dry before you wipe it off and it always leaves a deep, wet shine. For this we used a 5.5" Lake Country blue flat waxing pad on the Porter Cable on speed setting 4. After applying the wax, use your softest, clean microfiber towels, folded 4-ways t gentle remove the wax. I prefer and show others to wear microfiber gloves for this step as "like attracts like" and the gloves help you to more easily grip the microfiber towel plus you can touch the car without leaving fingerprints.
Now I let the pictures do the talking and note, this is the first time Wayne has ever used any of these products or tools, including the Porter Cable 7424XP dual action polisher. Looks like show car results to me....
Before
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_001.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_002.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_003.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_004.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_005.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_006.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_007.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_008.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_009.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_010.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_011.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_012.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_013.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_014.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_015.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_016.jpg
After
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_017.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_018.jpg
Close up of the same shot above, remember the paint had ZERO reflectivity when it arrived and this is a light color.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_018c.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_019.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_020.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_021.jpg
On Autogeek.com
Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze (http://www.autogeek.net/meg7showcarg.html)
Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover (http://www.autogeek.net/pin220.html)
Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish (http://www.autogeek.net/pin230.html)
Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax (http://www.autogeek.net/pinsouvwax.html)
Lake Country Flat Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-flat-pads.html)
Porter Cable 7424XP (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html)
Flex XC 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html)
Microfiber Gloves (http://www.autogeek.net/micglovinbul.html)
Look at the pictures and do as I show using the #7 and the terrycloth wash cloth.
Keep rubbing the paint down till it gets to the point where you're happy and then apply a coat of high quality wax to seal in the #7 and lock out water and oxygen.
Then maintain the paint with frequent re-applications of the #7 and the wax. Especially the hood and roof.
Without a garage it's going to take discipline to keep the horizontal surfaces looking good.
I'd also recommend joining this forum so you can interact on it with me and the rest of our forum members versus using e-mail. This forum is a powerful resource, and it's free to use.
Click here to join the AGO forum! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/register.php)
:xyxthumbs:
I get e-mails, PM's and FB messages all the time with questions that are better asked and then answered on this forum for a host of reason. One reason is more eyeballs see the questions and answers so more people are helped versus one set of eyeballs in an e-mail, PM or FB message.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hi Mike,
My father passed away last October and he left me his Chevy that I really want to make look as good as I can. I have tried clay bar, and all kinds of compounds and waxes, but the paint still looks really oxidized.
It is maroon and is in the Texas sun all day because I don’t have a cover for it.
Can you please recommend to me the best possible solution to get the paint to look as good as possible again?
My dad loved this old truck and I know he would be really happy if I was able to make it shine like new again.
Thank you very much for any help you may be able to offer,
David
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hi David,
First, I'm sorry to hear that your father has passed away. Stay positive and continue living a life that would make him proud.
As for the paint on the Chevy truck. Assuming this is the original paint and so far you have not had any luck using traditional compounds and polishes, if it were me I would rub this paint down using some Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze.
Get yourself some clean, cotton terry cloth wash cloths and using a LOT of the Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze and some elbow grease, start rubbing that paint down and massage the oils in the #7 into the paint.
Like I show in this how-to article
4 Steps to restore single paint paint - 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/66800-4-steps-restore-single-paint-paint-1972-mercedes-benz-280-se.html)
Yesterday, a gentleman named Wayne in West Palm Beach called me to ask me about how to go about saving the ALL ORIGINAL paint on his 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE. He had recently purchased this car with 41,000 original miles.
He told me the paint was oxidized, especially the hood, trunk and roof. He also told me he took it to a local body shop where he was told the paint couldn't be saved but they could repaint it for around $2000.00 but this would not include removing all the chrome and stainless steel trim, nor the bumpers or emblems, basically an entry level paint job.
Wayne Carini "Chasing Classic Cars"
Wayne told me he saw Autogeek on Chasing Classic Cars (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/64383-mike-phillips-chasing-classic-cars-wayne-carini.html) with Wayne Carini and how I restored the original paint on the 1953 Hudson Hornet for Wayne Carini.
That would be this segment...
Mike Phillips and Wayne Carini on "Chasing...
I explained that I have an article on how to restore antique single stage paint and not only have I used this technique now for decades, but others have used it very successfully to save an preserve the original paint on antique and classic cars, including the original paint on muscle cars from the 1960's and 1970's.
I invited him to bring his Mercedes-Benz to Autogeek and this morning I shared with him 4-steps to restore the original paint. This is the exact same procedure I used on Wayne Carini's 1953 Hudson.
Step 1
Rub the paint down with a heavy, or wet application of Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze using a terry cloth wash cloth. Put some passion behind the pad and then let the oils in the #7 soak overnight or for as long as possible so they can migrate "into" the paint. I cover this in my article (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html) and show pictures of how it works. #7 is non-abrasive, but it is the unique polishing oils that have been around in this product since the time of the Model T, and thus since the time single stage automotive paints were invented that revive the paint and bring out the original, full richness of color. After the paint has soaked in the #7, remove it.
Step 2
Machine polish the paint using Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover. It's key to use the highest quality abrasive technology you can obtain so as to effectively remove all the oxidation, (not removed by the terry cloth while rubbing in the #7), and to also remove or reduce as many of the swirls and scratches as possible. Try to use a foam polishing pad to be extra gentle to the paint but if needed, use a more aggressive pad. Keep in mind, antique, original single stage paints will tend to be brittle and abrade easily, so use the least aggressive pad and/or products to get the job done. We used the Lake Country 5.5" and 6.5" white, flat polishing pads. Wayne used the Porter Cable and I used the Flex 3401. After applying the polish immediately remove using soft microfiber towels.
Step 3
Machine polish the paint using the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish. For this switch to a foam "finishing" pad. We used the Lake Country 5.5" and 6.5" black flat finishing pads. After applying the polish immediately remove using soft microfiber towels.
Step 4
Machine apply a show car quality finishing wax like Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax. It's important to use a non-abrasive finishing wax, not a cleaner/wax of any type. I use Pinnacle Souveran on a lot of the show cars I buff out as you don't have to let it dry before you wipe it off and it always leaves a deep, wet shine. For this we used a 5.5" Lake Country blue flat waxing pad on the Porter Cable on speed setting 4. After applying the wax, use your softest, clean microfiber towels, folded 4-ways t gentle remove the wax. I prefer and show others to wear microfiber gloves for this step as "like attracts like" and the gloves help you to more easily grip the microfiber towel plus you can touch the car without leaving fingerprints.
Now I let the pictures do the talking and note, this is the first time Wayne has ever used any of these products or tools, including the Porter Cable 7424XP dual action polisher. Looks like show car results to me....
Before
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_001.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_002.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_003.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_004.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_005.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_006.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_007.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_008.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_009.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_010.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_011.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_012.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_013.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_014.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_015.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_016.jpg
After
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_017.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_018.jpg
Close up of the same shot above, remember the paint had ZERO reflectivity when it arrived and this is a light color.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_018c.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_019.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_020.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1932/1972_Mercedes_280SE_021.jpg
On Autogeek.com
Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze (http://www.autogeek.net/meg7showcarg.html)
Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover (http://www.autogeek.net/pin220.html)
Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish (http://www.autogeek.net/pin230.html)
Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax (http://www.autogeek.net/pinsouvwax.html)
Lake Country Flat Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-flat-pads.html)
Porter Cable 7424XP (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html)
Flex XC 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html)
Microfiber Gloves (http://www.autogeek.net/micglovinbul.html)
Look at the pictures and do as I show using the #7 and the terrycloth wash cloth.
Keep rubbing the paint down till it gets to the point where you're happy and then apply a coat of high quality wax to seal in the #7 and lock out water and oxygen.
Then maintain the paint with frequent re-applications of the #7 and the wax. Especially the hood and roof.
Without a garage it's going to take discipline to keep the horizontal surfaces looking good.
I'd also recommend joining this forum so you can interact on it with me and the rest of our forum members versus using e-mail. This forum is a powerful resource, and it's free to use.
Click here to join the AGO forum! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/register.php)
:xyxthumbs: