Tar-X on coating?

[kevincwelch]

I'm not seeing anything on AG or CarPro's website about being unsafe for coatings. Heard Tarminator might be, but is Tar-X safe on coatings?

[Sicoupe]

Great question Kevin! I would like to know myself.

[GenesisCoupe]

It's non corrosive, that i know for a fact..however it melts the tar instead of softening it up so that could mean it is not safe for coatings. You would think however that a mention would be made if it was not safe..

[SYMAWD]

Just APC was enough to remove tar on my coated car. Have you tried other methods first?

[kevincwelch]

No, I haven't tried anything yet. I bought Tar-X for the purpose of removing tar. I finally have tar on my car, and I'd like to use it.

If it's unsafe, I'll just say "bummer" and try an APC first.

But, I'm hoping my TarX isn't just a paperweight now.

:/

[SYMAWD]

No, I haven't tried anything yet. I bought Tar-X for the purpose of removing tar. I finally have tar on my car, and I'd like to use it.

If it's unsafe, I'll just say "bummer" and try an APC first.

But, I'm hoping my TarX isn't just a paperweight now.

:/

Personally, I will put just about anything on my car coated car. These coatings advertise that they are resistant to pretty much anything yet everyone seems scared to actually put stuff on them. While not the worst thing in the world, I've sprayed the whole car down with APC as a presoak before washing. Worked pretty well. Also left it caked with salt the entire winter. Still beads like it did a year ago.

[kevincwelch]

Agree with the salt. That's one reason I am super pleased with the coatings.

Maybe Avi will weigh in shortly.

[FUNX650]

Here's a quote from an article by a Detailer that
frequents this, and other "detailing forums", as well.
________________________________________


"Coatings resist bonded contamination better
than most traditional forms of protection, however
they will still become contaminated over time.

Luckily, this contamination is typically easy to
remove with a product like CarPro’s TarX and IronX.

In most cases these products will remove the majority
of bonded contaminates from the surface of your
coating, but it is possible that your vehicle may also
require light claying to remove other contaminates.

I typically recommend a quick decontamination
at least once each year".
_____________________________________________



Bob

[kevincwelch]

Thanks, Bob.

I've been weary of this advice since reading Gtechniq's own website that has said that IronX may damage it's coatings.

I see Tar-X as a very different base chemical, so it might not be an issue at all.

I will probably try a small spot near the trim and then test for hydrophobicity afterwards, which is the best proxy I can think of that the coating still exists. If not, I have some C1 laying around... All out of 22PLE, which is the primary coating now.

[tedj101]

Thanks, Bob.

I will probably try a small spot near the trim and then test for hydrophobicity afterwards, which is the best proxy I can think of that the coating still exists. If not, I have some C1 laying around... All out of 22PLE, which is the primary coating now.

Let us know what you find. That will be a very useful test!

<TED>

[Avi@CarPro]

If its coated with our coatings there is no problem using TarX on them, other companies i cant tell. you need to test.
in any case after applying Tarx and removing the Tar wash it well from the surface.
HTH

[kevincwelch]

Thank you for weighing in, Avi.

I tried the Tar-X on my car. The tar problem was worse than I initially thought because my car is dark blue -- I just wasn't seeing how much tar splatter there was given the regular dirt until I washed it.

The coatings on my car were 22PLE topped with Gyeon Booster.

At the very most, I can say that after application of Tar-X there was at least some coating remaining. I cannot tell how much, but the panels clearly beaded and there was decent water sheeting.

I ran out of Tar-X at one point and had to resort to using Tri-X. This definitely did something to the coatings, as there was very little beading and poor sheeting after it was used to get rid of the tar. I am reminded of a warning on Gtechniq's website that says Iron-X may be harmful to Gtechniq coatings. This very unscientific test of Tri-X would suggest that it may jeopardize the coatings as well, and I suspect it is the Iron-X component.

Anyway, I had to wash, Eraser and apply Hydro2 to the areas where I applied Tri-X -- basically the whole back of my car. I put Hydro2 on the areas where I applied Tar-X as well, but I'm not sure if it really added anything.

This sort of sucks because I really don't have any time to redo any definitive coating until next summer. I have some C1 left over, and I suppose I could apply that, but coatings take time to get right -- prep and all. Therefore, I'm hoping that Hydro2 every month or so will be sufficient.

I could also use Hydrofoam or Gyeon Bathe+, but the time I will have left to actually wash my car before the temps drop is about 1-2 months. Seems like a good problem for Hydrofoam and Hydro2 to solve.

I could put a layer or two of Powerlock or WG 3.0. That should also get me through the winter.

Any other suggestions?

[SYMAWD]

Thank you for weighing in, Avi.

I tried the Tar-X on my car. The tar problem was worse than I initially thought because my car is dark blue -- I just wasn't seeing how much tar splatter there was given the regular dirt until I washed it.

The coatings on my car were 22PLE topped with Gyeon Booster.

At the very most, I can say that after application of Tar-X there was at least some coating remaining. I cannot tell how much, but the panels clearly beaded and there was decent water sheeting.

I ran out of Tar-X at one point and had to resort to using Tri-X. This definitely did something to the coatings, as there was very little beading and poor sheeting after it was used to get rid of the tar. I am reminded of a warning on Gtechniq's website that says Iron-X may be harmful to Gtechniq coatings. This very unscientific test of Tri-X would suggest that it may jeopardize the coatings as well, and I suspect it is the Iron-X component.

Anyway, I had to wash, Eraser and apply Hydro2 to the areas where I applied Tri-X -- basically the whole back of my car. I put Hydro2 on the areas where I applied Tar-X as well, but I'm not sure if it really added anything.

This sort of sucks because I really don't have any time to redo any definitive coating until next summer. I have some C1 left over, and I suppose I could apply that, but coatings take time to get right -- prep and all. Therefore, I'm hoping that Hydro2 every month or so will be sufficient.

I could also use Hydrofoam or Gyeon Bathe+, but the time I will have left to actually wash my car before the temps drop is about 1-2 months. Seems like a good problem for Hydrofoam and Hydro2 to solve.

I could put a layer or two of Powerlock or WG 3.0. That should also get me through the winter.

Any other suggestions?

Permanon Platinum lasts an entire winter. Adam's H2O Guard and Gloss is also super easy. Wash your car, rinse your car, spray it on, then dry your car and you're good for 3 months in my experience.

[Billy Baldone]

I use Tar x on my cars. They are both coated with Beeds, I have had zero issues.

[GenesisCoupe]

I ran out of Tar-X at one point and had to resort to using Tri-X. This definitely did something to the coatings, as there was very little beading and poor sheeting after it was used to get rid of the tar.
Any other suggestions?

Sounds like a CQUK is in your next coating :)

I also bought CarPro's Hydro2 spray sealant..HOLY SMOKES!!! Amazing product.