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Lustrous Detail
09-07-2015, 09:42 PM
Aloha!

I have a potential client for a detail plus a headlight restoration. He sent me these pics and it shows that the edges are showing UV damage. Would you restore just the edges or do the whole headlight.

My plan was to wet sand starting with 1000g then follow with 3000g Compoung with V34 and final polish with V36. Is that too aggressive?

AGOatemywallet
09-07-2015, 10:33 PM
The edges are the most difficult part

I would suggest starting with 800 dry

I don't usually do a polishing step after compounding with LC Purple Foamed Wool and M100

Ebg18t
09-08-2015, 05:18 AM
I would avoid wet sanding more than you have to. No need to remove all of the lights OEM uv protectant.

chuckk
09-08-2015, 09:35 PM
I would try a small wool pad with something aggressive like the 3000 before sanding to see if it helps. Once you start sanding the whole process needs to be redone a few months later...no matter what UV protection you put afterwards...I would concentrate more on the edges but I would definitely make some quick passes on the whole headlight to take out the oxidation a bit, but hey thats just me.

jrs1418
09-09-2015, 02:24 AM
TBH, I rarely wetsand anymore.. Only the most beat up headlights get wetsanded. Those dont look that bad IMO. I've been having awesome results using a foam wool pad on my GG6 with 3" backing plate and Megs M100 or 101 and topped with a coating

GranPrix
09-09-2015, 11:24 PM
If you end up wet sanding make sure you install an Xpel headlight protector. You'll completely remove the factory UV film with the wet sanding which is what is already happening on the edges.

g35_coupe
09-10-2015, 02:15 PM
Corvette lights are a nightmare. Please update us on your results and let us know about your experience.

Lustrous Detail
09-10-2015, 07:22 PM
Corvette lights are a nightmare. Please update us on your results and let us know about your experience.

will do. can you explain why its a nightmare?

g35_coupe
09-11-2015, 09:20 AM
The factory UV coating I removed was just slightly softer than tool steel. I went through about a dozen sanding discs. It would be faster to start with the most aggressive method first instead of at the other end of the spectrum. If it's your 1st set (which I'm safely assuming), plan on dedicating a few hours for the pair.

Lustrous Detail
09-11-2015, 07:35 PM
The factory UV coating I removed was just slightly softer than tool steel. I went through about a dozen sanding discs. It would be faster to start with the most aggressive method first instead of at the other end of the spectrum. If it's your 1st set (which I'm safely assuming), plan on dedicating a few hours for the pair.

Yes its my first set. I was planning on hand polishing/compounding the affected areas first and see if that works.

rbos
09-12-2015, 12:54 PM
At $1600 a pop to replace you have some nerves. Lense had lite blue tint. I used 3"Griot DA 220 dry then Abralon500-1000-2000-3000-4000 not dripping wet but moist . Then polished and sealed . He was like a kid on XMAS. and I could breath again . The edge is the hard part but if you cover and then tape the outside edge you don't cut the paint.

VP Mark
09-12-2015, 01:04 PM
I would try a small wool pad with something aggressive like the 3000 before sanding to see if it helps. Once you start sanding the whole process needs to be redone a few months later...no matter what UV protection you put afterwards...I would concentrate more on the edges but I would definitely make some quick passes on the whole headlight to take out the oxidation a bit, but hey thats just me.

Wait, what? Wet sand, compound, polish, IPA, Optimum Opti-lens, done. A couple years solid protection. Wax and sealants don't last, use a dedicated high UV inhibitor plastic coating and it does not have to be redone every 3 months...

usmcpab
09-12-2015, 01:06 PM
Wait, what? Wet sand, compound, polish, IPA, Optimum Opti-lens, done. A couple years solid protection. Wax and sealants don't last, use a dedicated high UV inhibitor plastic coating and it does not have to be redone every 3 months...

That's my usual process in lenses that lightly oxidized. Haven't had any problems

jrs1418
09-12-2015, 04:15 PM
I agree. For lghtly oxidized headlamps we wont sand them unless they have deeper defects. Just doesnt make sense to remove the old coating that may still be good. My common sense says its better to lay olens or similar coatings on top instead of relying on them only.

And i can only get a few solid months from olens here in HI. The sun is just too strong

Lustrous Detail
09-13-2015, 12:06 PM
I agree. For lghtly oxidized headlamps we wont sand them unless they have deeper defects. Just doesnt make sense to remove the old coating that may still be good. My common sense says its better to lay olens or similar coatings on top instead of relying on them only.

And i can only get a few solid months from olens here in HI. The sun is just too strong

So you're saying for the headlights I posted. Just do a light polish, IPA wipe then Opti Lens?