How to wash pad covered in wax?

[AutoApollo]

Hi guys, just finished waxing my car using a black pad. How should I go about cleaning this pad? Wax seems hard to get out of the pad

[Paul A.]

I know how much dish soap has been debated for years on how harsh it may be for various applications in detailing and i never use it except...

For cleaning waxy pads! I fill up a bucket with warm water and Dawn and toss my wax pads in it when i'm done. I then work the wax out in the bucket with my hands, take it out, spray it with APC, work it some more and toss it back in the soapy bucket. A final AND COMPLETE rinse out, spin it on my rotary to dry it out as much as possible and then bring it in the house to fully dry.

Never had a problem with that method and never had any velcro adhesion issues either.

And even after all of that, when dried it goes back into its labelled plastic ziplock and used again only for that product.

[AutoApollo]

I know how much dish soap has been debated for years on how harsh it may be for various applications in detailing and i never use it except...

For cleaning waxy pads! I fill up a bucket with warm water and Dawn and toss my wax pads in it when i'm done. I then work the wax out in the bucket with my hands, take it out, spray it with APC, work it some more and toss it back in the soapy bucket. A final AND COMPLETE rinse out, spin it on my rotary to dry it out as much as possible and then bring it in the house to fully dry.

Never had a problem with that method and never had any velcro adhesion issues either.

And even after all of that, when dried it goes back into its labelled plastic ziplock and used again only for that product.

Cool, I'll try that thanks!

[richy]

Another method is to soak the pad (foam side down) in a tin plate with some Varsol or similar thinner. Then wash it out with dish soap afterward.

[wdmaccord]

I will usually spray it down with undiluted D101 and let sit for a few minutes then rinse out best as possible. Then just let dry and put in a ziploc bag after a few days and label the bag with the type of product so that pad is now dedicated to that product. Same with sealant.

[Paul A.]

I like Richy's method too. Sounds like more of a complete removal of product. My only question or concern would be anything detrimental to the velcro adhesive with varsol or thinner? I think what your saying, Richy, is foam side down and not to include the velcro material but wonder if it seeps up anyway. Just a question...

And i'm using the red Meg's APC, wdmac, and find that may be really all i need and skip the Dawn.

[Paul A.]

I like Richy's method too. Sounds like more of a complete removal of product. My only question or concern would be anything detrimental to the velcro adhesive with varsol or thinner?

[Mike Phillips]

Wax seems hard to get out of the pad




That's right! And that's a GOOD problem to have!

Think about it... if the wax rinse out easily it would rinse off your car easily and for most people that's the OPPOSITE of what they want from their effort of waxing to protect the paint on their car.

Car waxes and synthetic paint sealants are NOT water soluble.

Most compounds and polishes ARE water soluble.


So threads like yours pop up often when it comes time to wash or clean a foam wax applicator pad or a wax machine buffing pad.

Car waxes and synthetic paint sealants are formulated to resist breaking down when it rains or when you wash your car. They are lasting products whereas anytime you see a product that states it's Body Shop Safe, well it's NOT a lasting product.

The characteristics that make a wax bead up water for a long time are characteristics you DON'T want in a body shop when spraying new paint as it could cause Fish Eyes.


Just trying to point out a couple of topics in a single reply that tend to be "hot topics".

To get all the wax or most of the wax out of anything you need to use a solvent that will dissolve the specific "protection ingredients" in the brand of wax you've chosen to use.

Or some type of all purpose solvent like Ritchie mentioned.

Another option is stick with inexpensive wax applicator pads and simply toss them after you've waxed your car or place them in a plastic bag (not sealed) and keep them clean till the next time you wax your car.


:)

[AutoApollo]

That's right! And that's a GOOD problem to have!

Think about it... if the wax rinse out easily it would rinse off your car easily and for most people that's the OPPOSITE of what they want from their effort of waxing to protect the paint on their car.

Car waxes and synthetic paint sealants are NOT water soluble.

Most compounds and polishes ARE water soluble.


So threads like yours pop up often when it comes time to wash or clean a foam wax applicator pad or a wax machine buffing pad.

Car waxes and synthetic paint sealants are formulated to resist breaking down when it rains or when you wash your car. They are lasting products whereas anytime you see a product that states it's Body Shop Safe, well it's NOT a lasting product.

The characteristics that make a wax bead up water for a long time are characteristics you DON'T want in a body shop when spraying new paint as it could cause Fish Eyes.


Just trying to point out a couple of topics in a single reply that tend to be "hot topics".

To get all the wax or most of the wax out of anything you need to use a solvent that will dissolve the specific "protection ingredients" in the brand of wax you've chosen to use.

Or some type of all purpose solvent like Ritchie mentioned.

Another option is stick with inexpensive wax applicator pads and simply toss them after you've waxed your car or place them in a plastic bag (not sealed) and keep them clean till the next time you wax your car.


:)

Yeah I guess I'll just save to use it until next time

[CDot]

To get all the wax or most of the wax out of anything you need to use a solvent that will dissolve the specific "protection ingredients" in the brand of wax you've chosen to use.

Or some type of all purpose solvent like Ritchie mentioned

Hey Mike, so maybe a simple mineral spirit soak, followed by a wash should clear everything? I use/love Collinite and they are a BEAR to get out of pads (well they never fully get removed so I have dedicated Colli applicators). I love these (http://www.autogeek.net/red-ccs-applicators.html) and want to make sure they can endure the solvent soaks just fine

[cleanfreak3]

I filled up a 5 gallon bucket with water and Pinnacle detergent and let the pads soak. Then I rinsed each pad under the faucet..seemed to get them clean. However, will these pads be safe and clean enough to use again?

[LSNAutoDetailing]

For the blue and black wax application pads, I spray them with Pinnacle XMT Pad Cleaner and then give them a good soak. They stay soft and plush and I reuse them with no issues.

Mike is right though, water alone will not get the wax out... or at least I hope it doesn't.

[Mike Honcho]

...or place them in a plastic bag (not sealed) and keep them clean till the next time you wax your car.

Mike, what's the reasoning behind not sealing the bag? Moisture and mold? Won't pads stored in the unsealed (or sealed bags for that matter) become hard and stiff from the drying wax/sealant? (I'm thinking about the red LC flat pads and crimson HT pads specifically.) Thanks!

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, what's the reasoning behind not sealing the bag? Moisture and mold?



Correct. It's to prevent mold and mildew.




Won't pads stored in the unsealed (or sealed bags for that matter) become hard and stiff from the drying wax/sealant?

(I'm thinking about the red LC flat pads and crimson HT pads specifically.)

Thanks!



Trade offs.

There's always trade offs for everything we do in life.

In a perfect world you would use a new wax applicator pad every time you applied wax to a car.

In an almost perfect world you would wash your pads, remove as much wax or sealant as possible and then let them dry in a clean environment. Next store them some place they'll stay clean that has circulating air.

I just know I've seen mold and mildew form on pads stored wet in a sealed environment.


:)

[Paul A.]

I had a pad in a bag some years ago mold up on me. Since then only COMPLETELY dry pads go back into their respective completely dry bag and closed up...then kept in a tighly enclosed plastic bin...then in the cabinet! Because i store all my pads in my garage and sweep then blow out my garage frequently, i am super anal about having completely clean pads to pull out and use every job.

I washed that mildewy pad out very well and still used it. Since that experience i always FULLY dry all pads and microfiber towels before storing.