PDA

View Full Version : Talk Me Into Or Out Of A Rotary



Pages : [1] 2

Zubair
08-28-2015, 11:47 AM
Hello forum members

I am slowly venturing into rotary territory as I have become very familiar,comfortable and fluent with a DAS6/Rupes Bigfoot 15/Flex 3401. I assume natural progression would be rotary territory?

I am looking at the fastest correction speed/defect elimination.
Should I stick with my current polishers which I am super happy with or should I take the plunge?

I know a rotary with a wool pad is king of defect removal, can burn edges, body lines and leave holograms but how much faster is a rotary with foam pads over my existing polishers? What rotary should I look at and what pads? I am leaning toward a Flex PE-14.

So yeah talk me into or out of it. Any and all suggestions/advice welcomed.

top189h
08-28-2015, 12:13 PM
I started with a different progression from you, I learned on a rotary and over time started using da's. I may be a little biased by that, but for speed and user friendliness, nothing beats a rotary for me. I have a Rupes 15, and a gg6 but prefer my rotary over both for large corrections (my gg6 with 4 inch pads is amazing for smaller areas). I've never tried a flex so I can't compare to that one. On a side note tho, I can't come close to finishing a car with the Rupes as fast as a rotary, and I also very rarely have to use wool. I learned on a Makita rotary, but when I bought my own, I got one from harbor freight and had it for 4 years before I got rid of it and got another one from h.f. I do want to step up to a flex rotary one day though, it's just not in the budget right now.

RedXray
08-28-2015, 12:34 PM
I also cut my teeth on a rotary and wool pad (bodyshop). I have the DeWalt 849x and rarely use it except for really hammered finishes or after shooting fresh paint & wet sand. I find I use it more for headlight restoration and drying out my foam pads these days.

ETA: that said I love using it doing jewelling work @ 600 RPM with a 6.5" lc ccs gold jeweling pad :)

RPM_BR
08-28-2015, 03:15 PM
I followed the same route, and a rotary was the latest polisher I bought, after a PC, 3401 and Rupes 21 (I bought the PE14-2-150).
Yes, it cut faster, and it is lighter than 3401. I did my share of screw ups, burned two holes the size of cigarette burn, near the door handles both times, and both cars with thin clearcoats.
I would recommend, in case you decide to buy it, to work with polishing pads at the beginning, with low speeds 600 to 900 RPMs. Watch out for corners and panel intersections, and follow Mike's advice, 'let the panel be your guide'.
I use it on LC 6,5 Hybrids, DRC1000 pads, and LC Electrified wool pad (another Mike Phillips advice) and the new Menzerna wool pads. I also use LC rotary MF pad, or DA MF pad with foam interface.
IMHO, you need the 3 of them (3401, Rupes 21 or 15 and PE14), if you work professionally.
I tried the DeWalt, but I found it too cumbersome, heavy, the PE14 is top notch, It starts progressively, very low noise, It is difficult to beat it. Festool RAP 150 Shinex is the only thing that comes close (again, IMHO).
I hope it helps. Best regards.

RPM_BR
08-28-2015, 03:46 PM
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=99351

My setup.
The blue Einhell is the ugly duck, I use it mostly for drying up pads.
On the PE14, first from the left, I made a especial plate for the DRC pads; I had to grind it a bit for perfect fitting. I like to use M14 plates, so I don't have to use 5/8 attachments.
The Rupes has the original plate, but I also have the 5 inch plate.
The 3401 has the LC 4 inch plate for the hybrids.
And the PC has a smaller plate for tight areas.
If I could, I would add another 3401 and leave the original plate in it, and a Rupes 15.

Zubair
08-28-2015, 04:13 PM
Thanks guys, @ RPM, when you say you burnt paint with the PE-14, was it with wool pads? Btw nice selection of toys, I'm a Flex/Rupes only kinda guy myself,dont mind paying premium for quality products.

banzaitoyota
08-28-2015, 04:31 PM
I say a 86-89 RX7, NON TURBO, for the beginning rotary owner




Oops right answer , wrong forum

usmcpab
08-28-2015, 04:50 PM
I also started off with rotary and slowly progressed with a da. With that being said, I mainly use my rotary for wet sanding and heavier corrections and large flat panels. Depending on my pad and compound/polish combo I can sometimes finish to an LSP ready finish. However I still no matter what always finish everything with a da as far as polishing goes. I've tried multiple times to do an entire correction with a da, however it's just too time consuming in my opinion. I have a Makita 9227 and I've never had any problems with it. As far as burning paint, I've have only done it ones and that was due to my negligence. Also I have the flex 1-3 inch backing plates and pads just for those small tight areas. Can never be too safe in my opinion, especially when dealing with customers vehicles.

RPM_BR
08-28-2015, 04:56 PM
Thanks guys, @ RPM, when you say you burnt paint with the PE-14, was it with wool pads? Btw nice selection of toys, I'm a Flex/Rupes only kinda guy myself,dont mind paying premium for quality products.

No, hard foam on a soft paint with thin clearcoat. My fault, entirely.
But I have an associated painter, on both cases we managed to fix it (I also have a repair guy).
I told the owners, and they couldn't see it, I got scot-free on both cases.
Both solid colors, white and red. But it scared the hell out of me, and it took a while to regain confidence. But I did it, and here I am.

oldmodman
08-28-2015, 07:28 PM
I started on the PC, like I'm so many hobbyists did. Then I got a big Makita rotary.

Then I went right down to my local body shops and asked them if they had any hoods or trunk lids in the trash. I got both. One from a black car and the other from a blue car.

Practicing on those trashed hoods was the smartest move I ever made. I was able to test different pads, speeds, and compounds before ruining a real car's paint job. And after I got all the marring out of the black hood I was then able to use it as a test bed for different MF towels and clays.

I have since purchased the Flex PE-14 and use it only when required. It's a lot lighter than the Makita is.

BillE
08-29-2015, 06:46 AM
I say a 86-89 RX7, NON TURBO, for the beginning rotary owner




Oops right answer , wrong forum

Now, that is funny!

Bill

Zubair
08-29-2015, 07:56 AM
Not what I was expecting, not seeing a whole lot of argument to purchase a rotary. Maybe my Flex 3401 with 6" Blue Hybrid Foamed Wool and Rupes 15 with 6" Blue Microfiber pad is sufficient enough?

top189h
08-29-2015, 08:20 AM
I would say absolutely. If you aren't jeweling or trying to correct a trashed car quickly, the rupes is definitely enough and I'm sure the flex is probably just as good. The only argument I can make for a rotary that I can't for a da is that to me it's easier to control on tight edges since it doesn't oscillate. However, that wouldn't be a benefit to someone who isn't used to using a rotary. The machines you have are great, and if you were just looking for a new machine to have one, I really like my gg6 with the 4 inch pad set up, maybe you could look into something to specifically run with smaller pads.

Zubair
08-29-2015, 11:26 AM
I use my DAS6(same as a PC) with 3.5" bp and 4" spot buffing pads, we don't get the GG in 230V but the DAS is the equivalent anyways.

AGOatemywallet
08-30-2015, 11:11 PM
The 2009 Audi Q5 I did on Saturday has pushed me toward adding a PE-14 to my list of options

My FLEX 3401, Purple Foamed Wool and M100 too way to many passes