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View Full Version : What does enough product look like?



roguerobot
08-19-2015, 09:53 AM
Just completed my second car ever, using my PC DA. I am using Ultimate Compound, Polish and Wax to get scratches and normal defects from my daily drivers. I am using Lake Country Flat pads: orange, white and red.

I learned with the first car what too much product looks like, as I quickly clogged the pads. After some careful Youtube video watching, I cut back the amount I was using, and learned to prime the pads with much smaller amounts of product. So, the second car went a bit better, and the product didn't remain behind.

My current approach is to prime with 5 pea size drops, spread at low speed, then several passes over a portion of a panel on speed 5. I wipe, them move to a different section. I add 3 pea size drops, spread around under low speed, and then several passes. But what isn't clear is what is enough product? Do I need to add more to the pad for each section?

Given that I am using diminishing abrasive products, how do I know if the product has diminished? How do I know when to add more product? In several videos, folks often just apply a spritz of detailing spray to lubricate the pad. When I do that, I definitely get what appears to be more product on the panel, but its also more watery, and can sling around (that happened once, learned what too much spray is here too!). But is this product, brought out by the detailing spray, actually cutting? Or have the abrasives diminished, and therefore I am just spinning a pad on the paint?

For the most part, I find I can continue polishing panels, even without adding product, as I see the oily haze of the product as I go across panel sections. But its not clear if this is effective, or just the oils and additives going down. And of course spritzing the panel puts more 'white liquid' on the panel, but I am not sure if this is effective at all.

Any experts care to enlighten this newbie?

4u2nvinmtl
08-19-2015, 10:15 AM
I won't call myself an expert, but I do have 100's of hours working with Meg's Compound on a PC...


What is enough product?
Enough product will vary from case to case pad to pad. To me, it sounds like your using the right amount of product assuming we're talking about 5.5inch pads.


Do I need to add more to the pad for each section? Sometimes I add more product sometimes I don't. It really depends on how the pad feels against the paint and how the pad looks (is it gunked up, is it dry, is it hot, etc.). I know to add more product if the pad is dry or after I clean it on the fly. If the pad is gunked up I clean it. If the pad is hot I change pads or slow my speed. If I think there's still product but I'm not sure use a spray of water and you'll see the compound come back to life.


how do I know if the product has diminished? At first you will see the product on the paint then it will start to flash after a few passes (some spots will go hazy and then look clean like it's been wiped) and this is when the abrasives start to break down (IMHO). I typically do another 2-4 section passes (after I see the product flash, for lack of a better word) to be sure it's broken down and use one sprit of water to keep the product working as not to "dry buff" or overheat the pad. I'm never 100% sure its done breaking down but I'm sure about the resoults when I wipe to inspect and thats how I know it's time to move to the next section.


But is this product, brought out by the detailing spray, actually cutting? The detailing spray has no cut, but it does help to re-activate the compound to come into contact with the pad/paint allowing for more work time and subsequently breaks down the abrasves even more. You can also use plain water to save money (I've tried both and find water works fine). You don't have to add water if the results are what you're looking for but adding water is better than adding more product to the same section IMHO.


Or have the abrasives diminished, and therefore I am just spinning a pad on the paint? I don't think all the abrasives ever get fully diminished, but I'm not a chemist. I'd reason that even when you're just spinning a pad on the paint with only detailer spray there's clear coat still being cut (if not by the product then by the pad) and this will still improve the quality of your finish if you're trying to avoid following up with a final polish.

roguerobot
08-19-2015, 10:24 AM
Thanks...what does 'flash' mean?

Audios S6
08-19-2015, 10:32 AM
Just to note, Ultimate compound is non-diminishing (SMAT). Ultimate Polish is diminishing, at least according to this post.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23561-smat-pack-everything-you-ever-wanted-know-about-meguiar-s-smat-products.html

So you don't/can't work ultimate compound until it breaks down.

EDIT: Mike's thread doesn't mention UP in the SMAT pack, but I thought it was based on 205 which is smat and MOL seems to verify that.

4u2nvinmtl
08-19-2015, 10:35 AM
Thanks...what does 'flash' mean?

That's the hard part I don't think there's an industry standard for the term but I define it as the 3rd to 5th section pass with a compound where the compound and pad start to behave differently. Rather than smoothly coating the car it will go from hazy to almost clear (as if you wiped it) but if you stop the PC/pad it may still leave a white haze. The haze of product starts to flash to clear and thats when I add water to keep the product working (the pad will also stick less and rotate better once you add one spray of water).

The best synonym for "Flash" I can think of is evaporation. When the product dries out or evaporates it changes the feel of the pad against the paint and you start to dry buff (just past the point of flashing IMHO). You want to hit it with water just before you start dry buffing...

What pads are we talking about here (each compound and pad combination are slightly different in feel and work time)?

roguerobot
08-19-2015, 11:36 AM
What pads are we talking about here (each compound and pad combination are slightly different in feel and work time)?

I have the pads that came with the PC Value Pak (http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-buffer-value-kit.html), which I understand are Lake Country Flat pads. I also have Lake Country CCS Pads, orange and white.

All are 5.5 inch.

So far, I use the Compound on orange, the polish on white. I haven't noticed a difference in the pads, though the CCS pads seem to be easier to work with.