Dr colorchip second application

[bguiliano]

Finally got my dcc kit and it worked as advertised
Quick question after using it last night
This morning I think I should add another layer of paint
Do I need to prep the repaired spot again
Using rubbing alcohol?
Will that mess up the already repaired spot?
Thanks

[DaveT435]

No, the paint will stick to fresh paint. You prep the spot to remove any oils, waxes, etc. if you use alcohol it's likely to remove paint.

[bguiliano]

So no prep just add more paint then?
Is ok to have waited a day in between

[MarkD51]

So no prep just add more paint then?
Is ok to have waited a day in between

Yes, I'd say it's fine to wait that long in between coats-layers.

I say that provided that the first application had any-all excess paint around a chip-scratch removed and leveled, you should be fine. Otherwise, to attempt to remove such at that point, you will most likely also be removing much of the freshly applied coat-layer,

While the Sealact Solution should still be able to remove any excesses, even if they are days-weeks old, it will be a harder process to smooth-level, and you'll then use more quantities of the Sealact Solution.

Good lighting is very helpful, and what I have done in the past, was to mark near all areas to be repaired with small pieces of masking tape.

Makes them much easier to find when applying the paint, so you can work faster-more efficiently.

[bguiliano]

its tough I think it looks pretty good now. Wonder it messing with it too much might make it look worse

[LSNAutoDetailing]

its tough I think it looks pretty good now. Wonder it messing with it too much might make it look worse

Do a three foot test. Stand back three feet. Can you see the rock chip?
If not, leave it alone. There is a point of diminishing returns.

[MarkD51]

its tough I think it looks pretty good now. Wonder it messing with it too much might make it look worse

Well, that is one beauty of the Dr CC system, unlike conventional touch up paints, if the repair doesn't meet personal approval, you can simply take out the Sealact Solution and remove the entire repair, and start all over with no damage to the factory paint finish.

The learning curve with this product is exactly how long to wait before going to work with the Sealact Solution, and one can assume there can be a slight variance due to temperatures.

I've found waiting up to ten minute's time might be usually too long a time to wait.

One can start out with fairly firm pressure, but as the blob of touch up paint begins to smooth, and level, then lighter and lighter pressure is required, and as well if there is smeared paint outside the chip, concentrate more on carefully removing that, and avoiding the chip area itself.

That at the very end of the repair, I've found just literally gliding the Sealact dampened smoothing towel over the chip with no pressure at all, and letting the solution do the work with a swipe, then check, then another, you'll then get to that "magic point" where the paint chip has been perfectly filled-leveled, and the chip then just about literally disappears-vanishes.

This is where as I say, good lighting, and looking at various angles as you go does help considerably.

When I did my own vehicles, I had a 500W Halogen Light on a stand placed on an angle to the body, and it helped IMO.

And at the end when finessing, I'm talking a 5"-12" distance of inspection when leveling. If it's looking beautiful at those distances, and the paint hue-color has been properly matched, at 3 ' you will be quite hard pressed to see where the chip originally was.

[bguiliano]

so i guess I'm going to quit while I'm ahead. i must admit the ease of use for this kit makes always temping to think you can do better. But i did add another coat when i got home.
waited about 5 mins.
and admittedly my garage lighting isn't the best...but also used a flash light...and while standing over the hood, i do loose where the repair was....occasionally i can still find it...maybe I'm wiping away too much with the sealer...or maybe i should just remember that this isn't 100% chip eraser. occasionally i can still see the outline....so i guess its not completely level. but I'm going to assume with the few coats i did...it seems to pass the 3 ft test...and more importantly...i would guess its protected against rust.?