White 2014 Chevy Cruze

[1EdgeKilla]

Hello Mike & Everyone else,

First and foremost I'll start off by saying I'm new as a member to the forum and I want to apologize upfront if this is the incorrect place for this thread. If so would a mod please move it.

Anyhow, for some time now I've been reading across the internet (a lot on this site) about detailing and have tried to familiarize myself with as much as possible up unto this point. I'm at the point where some things are not as cut and dry as I originally thought and I'm getting kind of antsy. That said, I have some questions/concerns regarding my daily drive and a pull out detail on it.

A little background... as the title states its a White 2014 Chevy Cruze LT (all stock paint, lights, windshield to my knowledge) with roughly 35,000 miles on it. I bought it back in January with approx. 26,000 on it. To my knowledge the car has never been detailed or had anything but the typical local car wash and dealer inventory wash job done. I've done a Gold Class two bucket wash and dry on it almost weekly since getting it. Needless to say its due for an all out detail.

The first thing I'm trying to address after having read through you're article on what white paint teaches us is how to go about compounding, cleaning, or polishing. There are no major scratches (some chips) to the primer/metal but some hairline ones that I believe could be compounded and/or polished out. The rest are the basic swirl marks and scratches from the day to day life of being a daily drive. While I was initially set on grabbing some M105 and M205 to polish, your comments about white paint being very hard make me question whether or not I'd be wasting my time as that wouldn't be abrasive enough to tackle the job. Perhaps its going to be a matter of trial and error for me. Then there's the sealing aspect. I recall a white car is best sealed for shine and protection and im looking for the best I can get when it comes to both of those aspects. Whether or not I wax over-top I guess can be determined later. Just curious on what you or anyone elses recommendations might be on the matter.

Secondly is the headlights and windshield. I'm from central Pennsylvania and the winter cinders and stone roads have taken a bit of a toll on the front headlights and my front windshield. Granted theres no major cracks or chunks taken out of either, there is still minor knicks in both and wanted to get you or anyone elses opinions on addressing these. Should they be compounded, polished, sealed, etc... will this effect any current coating on them (headlights) especially.

Again, I've read quite a few articles up to this point but they are not straight-forward enough for me to go and dive headfirst and do anything as my OCD will not permit me to doing anything without first being sure haha. I'll continue reading through the site and forum hoping to get clearer answers to some of my questions as I don't want to be perceived as the lazy guy who just wants it all laid out for him because I by all means am not.

Also, just a heads up for what I have to work with right now although moneys not really an issue so I can pick up just about whatever whenever...

Wash/Dry:

-Two Bucket
-Megs Gold Class
-Megs White MF Mitt
-Megs Water Magnet

Decontaminate:
-Fine Nanoskin Wash Mitt
-Chemical Guys Clay Luber
-(looking into a clay to use for the knooks and crannys... was considering clay magic?)

Compound/Polish:
-(looking into Megs M105 and M205)

Polisher/Pads:
-Porter Cable DA Polisher
-Chemical Guys Hex Logic Pads

Sealent:
-(Chemical Guys Jet Seal)

Thanks to anyone who takes the time to read this ridiculously long post and provide me with any feedback and/or helps point me in the right direction.

Stay blessed!

[BillyJack]

Mike's article on white paint doesn't really apply to your Cruze, as your white is topped with the same clearcoat as any other color. He's referring to the single-stage white, which is still used to this day on many vehicles. The GM clear is a harder paint than many other brands. My wife's Cruze is Crystal Red and I use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, since applied with an orange pad, it cuts well and finishes just about LSP-ready. M205 would be fine, but I've also used Ultimate Polish with success. If I don't have enough time to do three steps at once, I've also done UC, then DG501, then applied my LSP a week or two later.
As far as the headlights, M105 or UC with an orange pad will work there also. IMO, GM's headlight coatings are more durable than many other car brands. I live in PA also and probably deal with the same salt/sand winter treatments as you. Don't strive for absolute perfection, as you may remove too much material, but I'd bet that a workout with UC will improve them considerably. After that, just use a good wax/sealant.

Bill

[1EdgeKilla]

Mike's article on white paint doesn't really apply to your Cruze, as your white is topped with the same clearcoat as any other color. He's referring to the single-stage white, which is still used to this day on many vehicles. The GM clear is a harder paint than many other brands. My wife's Cruze is Crystal Red and I use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, since applied with an orange pad, it cuts well and finishes just about LSP-ready. M205 would be fine, but I've also used Ultimate Polish with success. If I don't have enough time to do three steps at once, I've also done UC, then DG501, then applied my LSP a week or two later.
As far as the headlights, M105 or UC with an orange pad will work there also. IMO, GM's headlight coatings are more durable than many other car brands. I live in PA also and probably deal with the same salt/sand winter treatments as you. Don't strive for absolute perfection, as you may remove too much material, but I'd bet that a workout with UC will improve them considerably. After that, just use a good wax/sealant.

Bill


Bill,

I appreciate the feedback and thanks for clarifying! I guess going back and re-reading I see where he's referring to the single stage paints. That said, I have heard other people say about GM's clearcoat being particularly hard. I'll give the 205 a shot on the paint and see what it does. Should I hit it with anything afterwards that is even less abrasive or has no abrasives at all, or just go straight to a sealant? Also, is the black trim around your wifes cruze (doors/windows) discolored almost like a slight layer has peeled off it or perhaps etched into it? just curious if you use anything particular to treat that?

Again thank you for the quick feedback!

Chris

[BillyJack]

Chris,
M205 should finish LSP-ready, unless you possibly use too coarse of a pad. In that case you can go back over it with the same 205 and a softer pad.
With regard to your window moldings, I'd see a Chevy dealer and have them look at it, as it sounds like you may be still under warranty if you have less than 36,000 miles. GM uses a "UV" coating on their smooth black trim pieces. Mine's starting to flake a bit on my DD Lacrosse, but it's a 2007. I've been polishing it with UC to disguise it a bit, but I'll likely be repainting it or covering it with some wrap material after some feather sanding. The wife's 2012 Cruze is fine. I just use the same wax/sealant that the paint gets at the time.

Bill

[1EdgeKilla]

Chris,
M205 should finish LSP-ready, unless you possibly use too coarse of a pad. In that case you can go back over it with the same 205 and a softer pad.
With regard to your window moldings, I'd see a Chevy dealer and have them look at it, as it sounds like you may be still under warranty if you have less than 36,000 miles. GM uses a "UV" coating on their smooth black trim pieces. Mine's starting to flake a bit on my DD Lacrosse, but it's a 2007. I've been polishing it with UC to disguise it a bit, but I'll likely be repainting it or covering it with some wrap material after some feather sanding. The wife's 2012 Cruze is fine. I just use the same wax/sealant that the paint gets at the time.

Bill


Bill,

After closer inspection today, I realized it was what I thought to be and you are now confirming a UV coating... I actually snapped a quick picture. To the right of the yellow line I rubbed my finger back and forth a few times with a bit of pressure and removed what appeared to be the remaining bit of UV coating as it looked like what it does to the left of the yellow line prior. Im assuming I can just remove the remaining coating to make the rubber look a little better and apply some sort of new treatment to the rubber/plastic trim pieces after doing the paint correction and polishing.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/IMG_00782.JPG