Standard Chip Repair vs Dr. Colorchip

[AustrianOak82]

Which method do you guys prefer for rock chip repair? I have always done it the old fashioned way with filling in the chips and then wet sanding down, followed by a polish. I wasn't sure what kind of results the Dr. Colorchip product yielded. I have a high end car coming in next week for some chip repair and I didn't want to experiment with a new product then, while at the same time a little nervous given the value of the car.

[Mike Phillips]

The old fashioned way is time consuming. Also, if you make a mistake you have to start over.

In my opinion, doing rock chip repair starts with getting your customer's expectations grounded in the real world.

If they want a repair that looks like NOTHING ever happened then the old fashioned method and charge by the hour is the way to go. Be sure to explain how long it will take and an estimate for the total cost of JUST the rock chip repair.

If the customer doesn't like the price with doing the repair the old fashioned way then explain the Dr. Color Chip system is fast but you can't put your nose against the paint and expect to not see the repair.

You can stand a few feet away and not see the repair and for the price difference that's good enough for most people. This is especially true if the car in question is a daily driver and you explain to the customer that daily drivers are prone to future rock chips.

So having the correct Dr. Color Chip repair kit not only will fix the current chips but the future chips.

To me... it's all about customer expectations and what they are willing to pay for perfection.

See my article here, it's very in-depth...

How to use the Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip Repair Systems (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/83526-how-use-dr-colorchip-paint-chip-repair-systems.html)


:xyxthumbs:

[Rsurfer]

Mike, can you really do chip repairs the old fashioned way and put your nose against the paint and not see the repair, especially on metallic paint?

[Paul A.]

For my personal car i use both methods. For larger chips i still go the old school route i.e. fill, sand and finish. For smaller chips i use the Dr ColorChip method. I agree with Mike's opinion that my old school method is better in the final analysis but it's costly on time. Building up that slight "bulge" with numerous thin applications with OEM paint and then isolating the sand down to just that bulge is a meticulous effort and takes time to do right. I will happily say, though, it yields far superior results and yes, on my metallic flaked paint. Dr. ColorChip is fast and much easier and does an adequate job of hiding the smaller chips.

Again, for me, it comes down to the size of the chip. If i had a customer car i would talk them into the DC approach and caution towards the results not being perfect but much better and gauge their acceptance. If they wanted my meticulous approach i would price it out with the additional time that takes.

Just my opinion...

[Rsurfer]

For my personal car i use both methods. For larger chips i still go the old school route i.e. fill, sand and finish. For smaller chips i use the Dr ColorChip method. I agree with Mike's opinion that my old school method is better in the final analysis but it's costly on time. Building up that slight "bulge" with numerous thin applications with OEM paint and then isolating the sand down to just that bulge is a meticulous effort and takes time to do right. I will happily say, though, it yields far superior results and yes, on my metallic flaked paint. Dr. ColorChip is fast and much easier and does an adequate job of hiding the smaller chips.

Again, for me, it comes down to the size of the chip. If i had a customer car i would talk them into the DC approach and caution towards the results not being perfect but much better and gauge their acceptance. If they wanted my meticulous approach i would price it out with the additional time that takes.

Just my opinion...

You must have great skills, cause I can't get a black metallic paint chip to match perfectly. At 3 feet it looks good, but close up, you can see that it doesn't match. I've done the whole process, thin coats, wet sand with 1500, 2000, 3000, buff out. I guess I don't have the skills you have, when you can put your nose right up to it and can't see the repair.

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, can you really do chip repairs the old fashioned way and put your nose against the paint and not see the repair, especially on metallic paint?





Of course not.


My point is that's what Joe Car Owner EXPECTS


That's alway why in my post I said,





In my opinion, doing rock chip repair starts with getting your customer's expectations grounded in the real world.






And the reason is because most people don't know a squirrel from a swirl (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23142-difference-between-swirl-squirrel.html) let alone what is required to do this type of highly detailed work.

They expect perfection But that's just not real world. What I tell people that expect perfection is to get the panel repainted or the entire car.


:laughing:

[medicscott]

Does anyone know if you can use OEM paint and the Dr. Colorchip step 2 system to wipe off the excess? I'd assume paint is paint. I have lots of extra step 2 from leftover kits and I can get an OEM paint pen for $10.

[AustrianOak82]

Thanks Mike!

Does anyone know if you can use OEM paint and the Dr. Colorchip step 2 system to wipe off the excess? I'd assume paint is paint. I have lots of extra step 2 from leftover kits and I can get an OEM paint pen for $10.

I was wondering this as well. Is the step two product just glorified mineral spirits?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[FrankS]

Does anyone know if you can use OEM paint and the Dr. Colorchip step 2 system to wipe off the excess? I'd assume paint is paint. I have lots of extra step 2 from leftover kits and I can get an OEM paint pen for $10.

I actually asked this question to Tony Pando from Dr. Colorchip and he said that it would not work with OEM paint. The paint used in the Dr. Colorchip system is a little different than OEM paint and is designed to work together with the blending solution.

[medicscott]

I actually asked this question to Tony Pando from Dr. Colorchip and he said that it would not work with OEM paint. The paint used in the Dr. Colorchip system is a little different than OEM paint and is designed to work together with the blending solution.

So of course I didn't see this post and tried it. Epic fail, whipped out the plastic razor to get it off.

Now I know why we have to pay $59. Worth every penny.

Do NOT try the OEM and step 2 as it will NOT work.

[DaveT435]

No...put if you want to remove excess Dr Colorchip faster you can add a little mineral spirits to the solution and it will speed things right up.

[AustrianOak82]

How do you guys charge for chip repair services for both options? I never know how much labor it will take or anything, plus the kit or paint has to be ordered in advance.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[98LowRanger]

From my experience Dr. Colorchip works great for small chips and "road rash" (many very tiny chips), but not for large chips.

[Jeremy.Hoffman]

At what point do you bite your tongue and say... I'm sorry but I'd have so many hours in chip repair you could have the hood painted.

I know chips exist other places, I hunt, my jeep sees a lot of rock roads. Me doing chip work on my ride, if it takes a week so what.

[Mike Phillips]

So of course I didn't see this post and tried it.

Epic fail, whipped out the plastic razor to get it off.

Now I know why we have to pay $59. Worth every penny.

Do NOT try the OEM and step 2 as it will NOT work.




Thanks for sharing your experience, this will help others into the future....


:dblthumb2: