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View Full Version : Type II Water Spot Etchings Live With Them?



cfiiman
06-27-2015, 01:44 PM
I've noticed on the new to me SUV I purchased that there are some water spot etchings. Reading through Mike's posts on the types of spots I've identified them as Type II that need to be compounded. So today I washed, surface prepped, and then re-washed and decided to try a small 2'X2' area on the hood before waxing. I started with Ultimate Polish and a white pad and got no where, so I took out my Ultimate Compound and gave it a go with the same pad...nada. Doesn't look any different which I was surprised since Porsche's I thought had soft paint and UC is pretty aggressive. So I'm just wondering if I should learn to live with them or should I try something more aggressive? I don't have a paint thickness gauge so not sure how hard I want to go past UC, any ideas would be appreciated, thanks!

medicscott
06-27-2015, 01:57 PM
I've noticed on the new to me SUV I purchased that there are some water spot etchings. Reading through Mike's posts on the types of spots I've identified them as Type II that need to be compounded. So today I washed, surface prepped, and then re-washed and decided to try a small 2'X2' area on the hood before waxing. I started with Ultimate Polish and a white pad and got no where, so I took out my Ultimate Compound and gave it a go with the same pad...nada. Doesn't look any different which I was surprised since Porsche's I thought had soft paint and UC is pretty aggressive. So I'm just wondering if I should learn to live with them or should I try something more aggressive? I don't have a paint thickness gauge so not sure how hard I want to go past UC, any ideas would be appreciated, thanks!

Pictures would help...

Are you using a Flex or Rotary?
Second step up to a orange pad
Third, if that doesn't work, try a more aggressive compound like FG400 or Pinnacle or Uber.
If that doesn't work you might have to sand it
Defiantly get a thickness gauge on it at this point.

Rsurfer
06-27-2015, 02:25 PM
Get MX7 for paint and save yourself a lot of work.

cfiiman
06-27-2015, 02:44 PM
Pictures would help...

Are you using a Flex or Rotary?
Second step up to a orange pad
Third, if that doesn't work, try a more aggressive compound like FG400 or Pinnacle or Uber.
If that doesn't work you might have to sand it
Defiantly get a thickness gauge on it at this point.

Sorry, I was using a PC7424XP. Ok, I'll step up to orange with UP and see what happens, I also have a green Adams pad I guess I could try, I'll report back thanks.

medicscott
06-27-2015, 04:06 PM
I've always used a Flex so I can't comment on the rotary, but i'm not sure whats in the AG water lately as this board has been littered with more and more people experiencing frustration with the correction capability of their rotary...and the answer almost always is you need to switch to a Flex 3401...

I know the best of the best swear by the rotary so please don't think I believe perfection can't be achieved with a Porta-Cable, but it would seem for the everyday detailer that the Flex yields much better results with minimal effort. You should find someone on the site who is close to you and willing to allow you to try the flex on the same spots you can't correct and see what happens. My guess is they go away with 2 or 3 passes with the dual action.

Where are you located, you can try mine if you are in Mass?

Rsurfer
06-27-2015, 05:13 PM
Sorry, I was using a PC7424XP. Ok, I'll step up to orange with UP and see what happens, I also have a green Adams pad I guess I could try, I'll report back thanks.

Besides the water spots, does your paint need correction? If not, why use compounds that is taking off clear coat. Why not use a chemical cleaner that will save your clear coat? This is why I recommended MX7. If on the other hand, your trying to remove water spots and swirls, then by all means use a compound.:props:

cfiiman
06-27-2015, 07:37 PM
I've always used a Flex so I can't comment on the rotary, but i'm not sure whats in the AG water lately as this board has been littered with more and more people experiencing frustration with the correction capability of their rotary...and the answer almost always is you need to switch to a Flex 3401...

I know the best of the best swear by the rotary so please don't think I believe perfection can't be achieved with a Porta-Cable, but it would seem for the everyday detailer that the Flex yields much better results with minimal effort. You should find someone on the site who is close to you and willing to allow you to try the flex on the same spots you can't correct and see what happens. My guess is they go away with 2 or 3 passes with the dual action.

Where are you located, you can try mine if you are in Mass?

I'm in KY, and yes that is a good idea. I've never been overly impressed with the PC, I got it b/c it was safe for a new guy. But honestly I'm fairly experienced now and I feel like I should move up to the flex, they look great.


Besides the water spots, does your paint need correction? If not, why use compounds that is taking off clear coat. Why not use a chemical cleaner that will save your clear coat? This is why I recommended MX7. If on the other hand, your trying to remove water spots and swirls, then by all means use a compound.:props:

Yes, I was trying to remove some swirls, RIDS and of course the water spots, the spots by far are the worst looking, I'll check out the MX7, thanks.

Ccrew
06-27-2015, 09:01 PM
I love how people are so quick to say "oh go buy a Flex" or other DA. There's nothing your PC can't do that the Flex can, it just may take longer. I own a Flex and a Rupes, and they're nice, but all they really are for the $ is timesavers. For a business time is $, for a hobbyist that corrects a few times a year they're $ on the shelf.

You may want to consider getting the Meguiars cutting microfiber discs ( Meguiars DA Microfiber Cutting Discs, compounding discs, cutting pads (http://www.autogeek.net/5in-microfiber-cutting-discs.html) )for your PC and trying them with the UC, and without knowing precisely which pads you're using the PC's do work best with a 5" backing plate and disc, with keeping the disc on the thin side. More mass to the pad the more the action of the PC is absorbed. Consider the Meguiars 5" pads like here also:
Meguiars 5 Inch DA Foam Cutting Disc (http://www.autogeek.net/dfc5-foam-disc.html)

Winmon
06-27-2015, 10:15 PM
I have the same issues with my Bel Air. Bought the PC 7424 along with Wolfgang Uber. Going to see what happens tomorrow when I fire up the PC..

mfemenel
06-30-2015, 04:37 PM
I had a similar issue and had to go down to me meguiars 205, then ultimate compound, then ultimate polish. Not sure if the ultimate compound step was truly needed but it came out perfect.