A Few Questions On My First Full Paint Correction

[McCoy]

OK so like many other people in here, I read and researched this site for a couple months. Got the detailer's starter kit, and decided my first in depth project would be my white 1995 Trans Am. This car has been sitting for 2+ years. It took me 3 weekends just to wash it to the point where I felt it was ready for buffing. I have a few questions if anyone wouldn't mind chiming in....

Products at my disposal:
PC7424
LC CCS pads, yellow, orange, white, black (several of each)
Megs Ultimate Compound, Polish, Carnuba, and #9 swirl remover.

1. It is badly swirled. Started on the left door with UC/orange pad/speed 5, 5 section passes per section. Moved up to yellow pad, did the door again. Still swirled. Should I move up to the lambs wool furry pad or keep going over it with the yellow?

1b. These are not "scratches." Is there ever a point where no matter how much you buff, the swirls just wont come out?


2. How in the world to I buff under the spoiler? Should I take it off?

3. I am going to use Megs Synthetic Sealant for the LSP. Since this car sits for 350 days of the year, should I put on 2 coats? Or will the second coat remove the first?

Thanks in advance.

[Mantilgh]

Could possibly be single stage paint.

Here's a good long thread from Mike that talks about white

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22982-lesson-white-paint-teaches-us.html

And just of sample of some of the info there;


Single-stage White Paint Is Hard
Generally speaking, single-stage, white paint is the hardest paint you will ever work on. By that I mean, the paint itself, (its physical make-up), is very hard. There are numerous factors that determine the hardness of paint; in the case of white paint, Titanium Dioxide Powder is used as the pigmentation, which is a very hard material in and of itself.

In order to remove a defect that is in the paint, for example a scratch, you must remove all of the paint surrounding the scratch until the surface is level with the lowest depth of the scratch. You could look at removing below surface defects as a leveling process. The problem with removing below surface defects in single-stage white paint is two-fold: Single-stage white paint is hard and automotive paints tend to be very thin.

[DaveT435]

I did a 2008 SS white Toyota. I ended up using a rotary and wool as my first step.

[Mantilgh]

I did a test spot on a friends white Jeep the other day. Ended up doing 4x6 passes per section to get good results on it. It didn't show much results until after the third section pass and deceided to quit after the fourth. Made me hope he doesn't want me to do it, or I may have to pick up some micro fiber cutting pads.

Test spot was done with a Duetto on speed 5.5, and Optimum Compound II on a yellow LC flat pad.

Question: Do wool pads work well with DAs?

[BMW435]

Maybe you need a more aggressive pad and/or compound. Perhaps try a Meguiar's microfiber cutting pad and/or Menzerna FG400