andygold
06-24-2015, 05:15 PM
Sorry!!! Lots and lots of questions....
Getting ready to use these products for the first time, and I have some questions that the instruction guide does not address.
After decon (Tar X, Iron X, fine clay towel), I plan on using Opt Hyper Polish as the finishing polish with some Hydro Tech pads on a GG 6" ROP, as the car was polished and sealed about 6 months ago and it's still relatively swirl free.
This will be followed by the Gyeon products (Q2 Prep, Mohs, Trim, & Cure).
Vehicle is a 2015 Nissan Rogue. It's "Super Black" with some black plastic trim. I'm thinking that no matter how I apply the two coatings I'm going to wind up with either some Q2 Trim on the paint, or some Q2 Mohs on the plastic trim. I'm not sure which is worse (I'm actually not convinced that the two products are actually different products or one and the same but with different labels).
I'm wondering if I should just leave the tape on the trim, from the polishing step, and do the 2 coats of Mohs first followed by the Q2 Trim. But, how do you keep the Q2 Trim from getting on the Mohs when you do the edges of the trim? What if it does get on the Mohs? Or vice versa, what happens if you accidentally get Mohs on your trim? Will it matter? Will there be a color difference/stain on the trim if one product accidentally gets on it before the proper product is applied?
What do you do with metal trim that has plastic inlays? Mask first for one coating and then mask the cured coating before applying the other coating? Sounds like there should be an easier way.
As to application of the Mohs...I understand that you don't want it to totally dry on the paint before buffing it off. How do you determine when is the right time to buff it off? It seems like the Mohs might possibly bond to the paint immediately, as I've seen some references to buffing it off as soon as you are done applying it, while others say to wait a minute of two. I realize that temp and humidity are supposed to affect the application, but what if you were to immediately buff after application? Would the Mohs still be adhered properly? How do you know when it's the right time to buff?????
I've also read that some people just keep applying in a criss cross manner until the applicator is dry, and then they don't need to buff at all. Too many contradictions...which is best?
I've read that the Q2 Cure should be applied to prevent waterspotting during the 2 to 3 week curing time. But, I've also read that a HQ carnauba wax should be applied to prevent waterspotting, so which is it? I thought the Q2 Cure was the final topper specifically included in the kit for the first few weeks of curing to prevent spots.
If I also want to do headlights, glass & rims with just these two products, can I assume that the Q2 Trim would be best for the plastic lights, while the Mohs would be best for the rims? Which if any would you use for the glass, side windows and would either work on the front windshield without distorting the view?
Getting ready to use these products for the first time, and I have some questions that the instruction guide does not address.
After decon (Tar X, Iron X, fine clay towel), I plan on using Opt Hyper Polish as the finishing polish with some Hydro Tech pads on a GG 6" ROP, as the car was polished and sealed about 6 months ago and it's still relatively swirl free.
This will be followed by the Gyeon products (Q2 Prep, Mohs, Trim, & Cure).
Vehicle is a 2015 Nissan Rogue. It's "Super Black" with some black plastic trim. I'm thinking that no matter how I apply the two coatings I'm going to wind up with either some Q2 Trim on the paint, or some Q2 Mohs on the plastic trim. I'm not sure which is worse (I'm actually not convinced that the two products are actually different products or one and the same but with different labels).
I'm wondering if I should just leave the tape on the trim, from the polishing step, and do the 2 coats of Mohs first followed by the Q2 Trim. But, how do you keep the Q2 Trim from getting on the Mohs when you do the edges of the trim? What if it does get on the Mohs? Or vice versa, what happens if you accidentally get Mohs on your trim? Will it matter? Will there be a color difference/stain on the trim if one product accidentally gets on it before the proper product is applied?
What do you do with metal trim that has plastic inlays? Mask first for one coating and then mask the cured coating before applying the other coating? Sounds like there should be an easier way.
As to application of the Mohs...I understand that you don't want it to totally dry on the paint before buffing it off. How do you determine when is the right time to buff it off? It seems like the Mohs might possibly bond to the paint immediately, as I've seen some references to buffing it off as soon as you are done applying it, while others say to wait a minute of two. I realize that temp and humidity are supposed to affect the application, but what if you were to immediately buff after application? Would the Mohs still be adhered properly? How do you know when it's the right time to buff?????
I've also read that some people just keep applying in a criss cross manner until the applicator is dry, and then they don't need to buff at all. Too many contradictions...which is best?
I've read that the Q2 Cure should be applied to prevent waterspotting during the 2 to 3 week curing time. But, I've also read that a HQ carnauba wax should be applied to prevent waterspotting, so which is it? I thought the Q2 Cure was the final topper specifically included in the kit for the first few weeks of curing to prevent spots.
If I also want to do headlights, glass & rims with just these two products, can I assume that the Q2 Trim would be best for the plastic lights, while the Mohs would be best for the rims? Which if any would you use for the glass, side windows and would either work on the front windshield without distorting the view?