Machine wax removal

[bonedr]

Im the MAN
I recently began experimenting with machine wax removal . I've been using a PC with a terry bonnet over a lambs wool pad 6 " I believe . 2 things I noticed is that this does not remove all the wax but most of it . You still need a final buff . Right now I'm doing that by hand with a plush microfiber ,but I'm thinking of trying a microfiber bonnet.

I also notice that with the lambs wool and the terry bonnet on the PC it doesn't seem like the buffer is turning ,just vibrating . At first I thought my buffer had died as it is old , but when I switched to just a foam pad it did its dual action just fine, this has me puzzled .

I recently ordered a cyclos 5 and I'm anxious to try it for all things but especially polish,wax,and removal... I'll use a flex for correction .

Interested in expert forum thoughts and comments Feed back please

[Don M]

If you're laying down the wax with a machine, you should be putting it on so thin that by the time you gear up the polisher for wax removal, you could have half the car buffed clear of the wax residue. Just my $.02

[custmsprty]

If you're laying down the wax with a machine, you should be putting it on so thin that by the time you gear up the polisher for wax removal, you could have half the car buffed clear of the wax residue. Just my $.02

:iagree::iagree:

I always remove all polishes, sealants and waxes by hand. I probably use 10-15 mf towels in the process x's the 8 folded front and back panels of a towel. They load up with product being removed. That's why you have the issues with the bonnets. You'll need a ton of bonnets and be changing them every few feet because they load up. So basically you're just moving product around after a few passes, not removing product.

I don't recall ever seeing Mike P use machine/bonnet combo to remove product.

So basically now you're doing two steps to remove product vs. one step.

Hope this helps you out.

[SameGuy]

Plus, as mentioned in the other thread, none of the MF bonnets come close to the quality of even half-decent MF towels, never mind decent Korean-made or German-assembled towels. Might as well use a power tool to rub dollar store MFs on your just-corrected paint. Oh, and cotton terry is way, way too coarse for post-polishing steps.

[Mike Phillips]

I don't recall ever seeing Mike P use machine/bonnet combo to remove product.




I don't do it as a practice because most waxes and sealants I use wipe off easy by hand.

I did cover this topic at all the Detailing 101 classes I taught at Meguiar's from 2002 to 2009.

I cover it in my how-to book on page 132 to 133

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1313/SigLine_Books_002.jpg (http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-create-a-show-car-shine-book.html)



The jist of doing this is,

A. The wax MUST be a drying wax, not a WOWO wax or sealant.
B. It must be applied using a very thin coat.
C. On page 133 of the above book I show what to do with your fingernails.


Here's my article on this topic using a 1959 Caddy I buffed out years ago....


How to use a microfiber bonnet to remove dried wax by machine (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/29369-how-use-microfiber-bonnet-remove-dried-wax-machine.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/IndigoOnHydro02.jpg



Lots of info in my how-to book. Pretty much everything that's in my brain.


:D

[custmsprty]

Thanks Mike :props:

[bonedr]

I should have mentioned that I'm using Collinite 476 and the recommended technique calls for a terry bonnet for removal thanks

[Mike Phillips]

I should have mentioned that I'm using Collinite 476 and the recommended technique calls for a terry bonnet for removal thanks


The reason why is because cotton terrycloth is more STOUT than microfiber and you'll need this more stout or coarse type of fiber loop to slice through the layer of wax, break it up and thus remove it.


Practice laying down an uber thin layer of wax. See my article here, free advice... good advice....


A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/37279-tip-working-waxes-paint-sealants-coatings-new-you.html)




:xyxthumbs:

[TTQ B4U]

I normally use a series of quality MF Towels to remove my LSP's but today I broke out the BLACKFIRE BlackICE Hybrid Montan Sealant Wax and a black pad, applied it super thin and then buffed it off with two of these MF Pads. I've had them for a while and love them. They do a great job and do not cake up when used with an LSP that dries and is put on thin. I use them with Collinite too.

http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah133/PDQS4/Misc%20Detailing/bonnet_zpsbkqnofew.jpg (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/PDQS4/media/Misc%20Detailing/bonnet_zpsbkqnofew.jpg.html)

Once completed, I go back over and wipe down the entire car with a quality MF Towel to insure no spots were missed. These bonnets do a great job teamed with my 3401.

Was able to apply and remove and wipe down my entire car in just over 40 minutes. I used two of the four today as the Blackfire product is super easy to remove, goes on thin and barely leaves any noticeable product on the bonnet.

[Mike Honcho]

I like those! What kind of MF pads are they?

[GSKR]

Those big gem professional orbitals do a great job of removing lsp.

[TTQ B4U]

I like those! What kind of MF pads are they?

Shurhold brand