Decontamination Process

[McCoy]

Can anyone help me understand why the standard process is to to Iron-x a car after washing (before claying). I understand the reason why, but it seems awful expensive.

Do you all do this diligence when you do your basic wash/wax on customer vehicles? Or is this process only for the high end $200 detail jobs?

[zmcgovern45]

Iron X is a time saver.... using an iron remover or tar solvent after washing, but before claying will save you a LOT of time when it comes to the actual claying process.... that is assuming the vehicle suffers from iron contamination and/or tar contamination to start with. If the vehicle does not have any tar build up or iron buildup, then clearly it makes no sense to use these types of products. Simply do a spray of IX on each panel or so to see if you get a reaction, then if needed, go around and thoroughly cover the entire vehicle and allow it to do it's job.

Time = Money as a professional, therefore the added expense of using IX should be negated by the added time savings. A gallon of IX is $100 retail (if you're a pro and are paying retail, you aren't doing something right), you may use 8 oz of IX, and therefore 16+ vehicles per gallon so $6/car retail at most for a product that should save you 30-60 minutes when it comes to claying if the car is contaminated with iron particles.

Work smarter, not harder :)

-Zach

[Paul A.]

Good question and as a practice i always decontaminate the paint before even just a wash and wax. It's reflected in my price as well. For me, it just doesn't feel right to lock any above surface contaminants under a wax or seal. To me, the customer is paying for a wash and wax/sealant but no paint leveling. To me, that includes removing stuff on top of the paint but not necessarily below of leveling out any marring.

If your question relates to the order of processes, i always iron-x before claying. I like to remove the metallic contaminants before claying (or in my case Nanaoskin) to chemically remove as much as i can of the scratch or marring elements. Plus i remove even less with the Nanoskin effort.

(edit - similar things offered by Zach but didn't see them while typing)

[DogRescuer]

Iron X is a time saver.... using an iron remover or tar solvent after washing, but before claying will save you a LOT of time when it comes to the actual claying process.... that is assuming the vehicle suffers from iron contamination and/or tar contamination to start with. If the vehicle does not have any tar build up or iron buildup, then clearly it makes no sense to use these types of products. Simply do a spray of IX on each panel or so to see if you get a reaction, then if needed, go around and thoroughly cover the entire vehicle and allow it to do it's job.

Time = Money as a professional, therefore the added expense of using IX should be negated by the added time savings. A gallon of IX is $100 retail (if you're a pro and are paying retail, you aren't doing something right), you may use 8 oz of IX, and therefore 16+ vehicles per gallon so $6/car retail at most for a product that should save you 30-60 minutes when it comes to claying if the car is contaminated with iron particles.

Work smarter, not harder :)

-Zach

Whats your dwell time on ironx??

[zmcgovern45]

Depends on ambient conditions. I try to let it dwell 5+ minutes, but I certainly don't let it get to a point where it might start drying on the surface.

-Zach

[Paul A.]

Yes, don't let it dry as Zach mentioned but that time varies. I like to spritz my sponge with iron-x after its sat for a bit. I then rinse thoroughly. This seems to keep it liquid anyway.

Because i like to do it before a nanoskin session i get to rinse again with lube for the nanoskin and then another flush.