Order of prep before CQuartz UK

[Mike Briggs]

I just want to make sure I have the order in which to carry out some steps clear before I go through the process of prepping and putting CQuartz UK on my car. The car currently has Blackfire Crystal Seal on it. My plan is:

1. Wash with dish soap (like Dawn) to try to remove some of the Crystal Seal while cleaning.

2. Iron-X

3. Clay (even though I clayed it about a month ago)

4. Machine Polish (with Meg Ultimate Compound)

5. Clean with Eraser

6. Cquartz UK

7. Reload

Is that correct? Is there any need to wash after polishing before using Eraser? Should I bother claying after doing Iron-X considering I clayed a month ago, and Iron-X would probably (I think) take care of any contaminants that have found their way into the paint in the meantime?

Thanks!

[trekkeruss]

You don't need to wash with dish soap; the compounding step will remove the old LSP. I would add a polishing step after the compounding, just to refine the finish; you might have some haze after compounding.

[Mike Briggs]

I was thinking that removing some of the LSP before using Iron-X might help the Iron-X clean the paint better (thus the dish soap). On the polishing - I've had good experience in the past with Ultimate Compound, which seems to break down to finer particles as you work it, allowing it to essentially turn into a polish - giving you a nice smooth finish without needing to compound. With a regular compound I would definitely need to polish afterwards, but I *think* I should be able to get away without it with Ultimate Compound.

This is a picture of my 12 year old Jetta (sold last summer) just after going over the entire car with Ultimate Compound (and some parts first with M105), and then putting on a coat of Liquid Glass (I know people here don't like it - but on black cars it can make them pop).

http://pubpages.unh.edu/~msbriggs/passengerside.JPG

And here is one where I was pointing out a little door ding:

http://pubpages.unh.edu/~msbriggs/ding.JPG

It seems like Ultimate Compound, as long as you work it fully, can accomplish what both M105 and M205 would do as a two-step compound and polish. Am I wrong about that?

[Mask]

I would do these:
Wash
Ironx
Clay
Ultimate compound
Ultimate polish
Eraser
Coat

Enjoy :D

[Sbmin]

I agree that you should skip the dish soap. You should use a soap that is meant to be used on cars not dishes. Unless you are trying to eliminate swirls and scratches, you should be using a polish, not a compound. If you do need a compound step, you should follow it up with a polish step.

[fly07sti]

OP, if you say you like the look you get after using Meg's UC then that's fine. But for the fun of it, you might just want to polish the top of your trunk to see if you can get a little more depth or clarity. If you do then I'd polish the whole car, if not you only spent an extra 15 minutes to rule out a 2 step. Now as far as eraser goes, I would do 2 wipe downs before you coat. The Meg's ultimate line are a lil oily, so to be on the safe side, I'd do 2 wipe downs to make sure the paint is free of anything before you coat. Good luck to you.

[Zelfiris]

I found I could get a better finish by following up with a polish after I tried ultimate compound. But if you are happy with the finish, that's what matters.

Depending on the amount of compound/polish dust, I generally like to do a wash (rinseless or 2 bucket) before IPA/Eraser wipe down.

[Mike Briggs]

Thanks everyone. I do have Meguiars Ultimate Polish, so I will do what fly07sti suggested and see if it improves the optical clarity after UC. Does Ultimate Polish contain a lot of fillers? (meaning more for Eraser to remove)

Actually, since the car is pretty new, it mostly only has the Dealer installed swirls. I can start with the Ultimate Polish and see if that is sufficient, and skip the compounding altogether. If I don't compound the entire car (but do all the other steps, and use Ultimate Polish instead), would I need to worry about the Crystal Seal not being fully removed?

[fly07sti]

Ya, try UP first before compounding. If that's all you need than even better. I wouldn't call them fillers, but both UC and UP have a fair amount of oil which can stay behind and act like a filler if not removed by an an IPA or Eraser wipe down. They are really nice though, but be sure to clean thoroughly after. And yes UP will remove BFCS.

[jmsc]

The 1 step I would add is after IRON-X (S2), put on a plastic baggie on your hand and feel for any other contaminants even though you clay'd 1 month ago. If some panels feel smooth as glass you are good to Machine Polish. If some panels feel gritty just clay it again.

[Mike Briggs]

Ok, I think I'm pretty comfortable now with all the steps. One last question (hopefully). My understanding is that CQuartz UK can be used on non-porous plastic trim, but not flexible rubber trim. Is that correct?

Thanks everyone!

[ihtus]

Hello Mike,
I am going through same process as you.
I have a little concern about "Meguiar's Ultimate Polish" being too oily.
Did you polish with Meg's? Did you wipe several times with eraser? Was that enough? Is coating well glued to the surface?
Thank you in advance!