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maxnukem
05-03-2015, 05:23 PM
Ok all. I got some great responses the other day and now I have an order on the way!

Here is what I have (or is on the way) and how I intend to use it. I do have 2 questions down at the end and feel free to drop any corrections or suggestions you have!

I'm going to be working on my 2014 Nissan Juke in Black Sapphire. I've got over 50k on her already and she gets plenty dirty every week. My main objective this time around is to remove cobwebs, bug etching, and what must be type 2 waterspots since I cant get them to wash away.


Ask for an overcast cool day (or set up my 10x10 popup as my driveway is in the sun till around 4-5pm)

1) Clean wheels/rims. Finish off tires w/ Black Magic tire wet (DP kit on my wishlist)

2) a 2 bucket car wash with MicroFiber mitt. Use a separate MF rag to give some of the stubborn bugs and any tar more attention/elbow grease

3) Doublecheck roof and clay the rest of the car (tested claying on roof last week, feels much smoother already) I'll be using the Meg Quick Detail spray as my lube.

4)Polish a test spot using HF DA with 5” LC flex backplate, and yellow Meg thin DA pads with Meg 205

If this doesn’t clean up the paint to my satifaction, move on to red Meg pad and 205 or red pad with scratchX 2.0. If I’m still seeing serious cobwebs, double check pressure applied and speed setting, otherwise I’ll need to purchase a stronger compound (thinking Meg Ultimate since I can get it just down the street or just putting it off till next time and get some M105 on hand)

If I had to compound, follow up with my original starting point (M205/yellow) to polish.

5) Black Meg pad for a layer or 2 of Collinite 845

My 2 questions I still have would be where to put drying in this lineup. I've seen where you move right into clay without drying but I would think it needs to be totally dry before waxing.
And do i need some type of pad care product for the thin Meg pads, or do they go in the washer like the big ones can?

Thanks!

Rsurfer
05-03-2015, 05:30 PM
Ok all. I got some great responses the other day and now I have an order on the way!

Here is what I have (or is on the way) and how I intend to use it. I do have 2 questions down at the end and feel free to drop any corrections or suggestions you have!

I'm going to be working on my 2014 Nissan Juke in Black Sapphire. I've got over 50k on her already and she gets plenty dirty every week. My main objective this time around is to remove cobwebs, bug etching, and what must be type 2 waterspots since I cant get them to wash away.


Ask for an overcast cool day (or set up my 10x10 popup as my driveway is in the sun till around 4-5pm)

1) Clean wheels/rims. Finish off tires w/ Black Magic tire wet (DP kit on my wishlist)

2) a 2 bucket car wash with MicroFiber mitt. Use a separate MF rag to give some of the stubborn bugs and any tar more attention/elbow grease

3) Doublecheck roof and clay the rest of the car (tested claying on roof last week, feels much smoother already) I'll be using the Meg Quick Detail spray as my lube.

4)Polish a test spot using HF DA with 5” LC flex backplate, and yellow Meg thin DA pads with Meg 205

If this doesn’t clean up the paint to my satifaction, move on to red Meg pad and 205 or red pad with scratchX 2.0. If I’m still seeing serious cobwebs, double check pressure applied and speed setting, otherwise I’ll need to purchase a stronger compound (thinking Meg Ultimate since I can get it just down the street or just putting it off till next time and get some M105 on hand)

If I had to compound, follow up with my original starting point (M205/yellow) to polish.

5) Black Meg pad for a layer or 2 of Collinite 845

My 2 questions I still have would be where to put drying in this lineup. I've seen where you move right into clay without drying but I would think it needs to be totally dry before waxing.
And do i need some type of pad care product for the thin Meg pads, or do they go in the washer like the big ones can?

Thanks!

Your plan looks good. Yes, you need a clean and dry surface to wax (845).

I would also dry after a wash before claying to prevent water spotting.

You can machine wash, but I prefer to wash by hand. Less abuse on the velcro backing.

North26
05-03-2015, 06:42 PM
(thinking Meg Ultimate since I can get it just down the street or just putting it off till next time and get some M105 on hand)

My 2 questions I still have would be where to put drying in this lineup. I've seen where you move right into clay without drying but I would think it needs to be totally dry before waxing.
And do i need some type of pad care product for the thin Meg pads, or do they go in the washer like the big ones can?

Thanks!

1) Stay away from M105. It is my personal favorite compound but since you are just starting I wouldn't touch it. The product is more stubborn than my girl friend and if it isn't removed when warm cements onto the car. Look into a Wolfgang or use UC compound instead.

2) I'm going to disagree with ^ about drying. When doing any kind of paint correction I do not try til my final wash before a wax or sealant. Its a waste of time to me. Any water spots that occur because of my not drying an hour or two before are superficial and will easily remove with a polishing compound.

Also washing pads, you probably will not have many pads to wash. If anything the only pad you will have is you last polishing pad and your waxing pad. If I were you I would look into waxing by hand. Much more control.

Desertnate
05-04-2015, 10:52 AM
Since this is your first time, try the Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. They are the more consumer/newbie versions of 105/205 and might serve you better. They are both very inexpensive and can be found everywhere.

A single coat of 845 should be all you need. The stuff is very durable and looks great.