New To Detailing

[Corey06]

Hey guys, I am new to the forum. I have a White 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD, I wash it quite frequently. For soap I have been using Duragloss #901 mixed with optimum no rinse wash and shine. (Anyone have anything better) Then I claybar the truck with the meguiars kit and have just been using the meguiars white wax. I have recently bought a porter cable but have never used it and was interested in hearing what steps you guys think I should do or products I should use. My truck is a daily driver so it is out in all elements and would like to get the best protection for my paint. What clay bar would you recommend? I also have a new bottle of blackfire crystal paint sealant, is this something I put on at the end of detailing and then wax over? What are some good polishes and waxes or sealants to use on a daily driver. I don't think I need to do any paint correction, there is hardly and swirling at all and I have always been very picky when washing it. I use aerospace 303 on the interior, what is a good product for the black plastic on the outside of the truck and also looking for a good tire dressing that does not turn the tires brown after a while.
Thanks

[Corey06]

Anyone?

[Breese147]

Sounds like you have a great process! Apply your sealant before your wax.Also just a note some sealants don't play well with other waxes so do your research on your products. 2nd if you really want to preserve your paint I would look into a paint coating such as Carpro Cquartz. These offer over a year of protection and some resistance to scratches and contaminants.

[trekkeruss]

1.) I have used both name brand and generic clay. I haven't noticed a difference.

2.) You can just use the sealant by itself. You will get debate about whether you should or shouldn't top a sealant with wax.

3.) I'm currently using Turtle Wax's trim coating and tire coating. Excellent durability and a nice finish, especially considering the price. But using TW products has a bit of stigma attached to it. You don't have to tell anyone. :xyxthumbs:

[Don M]

The White Wax is an All-in-One, so you couldn't put it over a sealant, it would just abrade the sealant away. You could use Meguiars Ultimate Polish first then apply the sealant of your choice. I happen the use the Meguiar's Ult Paste wax.

[Paul A.]

If you already have 303 Aero Protectant you can use that on exterior black trim as well. Good UV protection. I have used that before i switched to Black Wow Pro and now there are even better sealants for plastic trim.

[OCD Detailing]

My favorite AIO is the XMT AIO. It works great for us on the Rupes with a Meg's MF Finishing pad.

There are a lot of good YouTube videos on using RO polishers if you are looking for advice on that part.

[Corey06]

thanks guys, has anyone else ever used the carpro cquartz stuff? It looks like it would be good on my truck since it see's a lot of salt and road grime especially in the winter. I haven't found to many reviews on it but it sounds like pretty good stuff!

[Corey06]

Any recommendations on a good polish to remove really light swirls? I plan on washing my truck, and then using one of them speedy prep surface towels to remove all contaminates from paint, I don't need to use a compound to correct the paint it looks really good as it is, the truck is two years old and has some very light swirl marks, you can hardly see them since its white, but would like a good product to polish them out, and then I plan on trying some of the cquartz uk and hopefully that will add some good protection to the paint. Is there anything better to use then the cquartz? Would like to get this stuff ordered ASAP so any help would be appreciated.

[Ebg18t]

Any recommendations on a good polish to remove really light swirls? I plan on washing my truck, and then using one of them speedy prep surface towels to remove all contaminates from paint, I don't need to use a compound to correct the paint it looks really good as it is, the truck is two years old and has some very light swirl marks, you can hardly see them since its white, but would like a good product to polish them out, and then I plan on trying some of the cquartz uk and hopefully that will add some good protection to the paint. Is there anything better to use then the cquartz? Would like to get this stuff ordered ASAP so any help would be appreciated.

I use CarPro Reflect now for polishing. Wipe with Eraser then move onto CQUK. I have been happy with CQUK.

[Corey06]

I use CarPro Reflect now for polishing. Wipe with Eraser then move onto CQUK. I have been happy with CQUK.

Could you put wax over the CQUK, I was thinking of ordering some Megiuars D156 synthetic spray wax and was thinking of applying that over the CQUK every once and a while but didn't know if it would be recommended or not, or is the CQUK going to be more than enough to protect the paint?

[Ebg18t]

Could you put wax over the CQUK, I was thinking of ordering some Megiuars D156 synthetic spray wax and was thinking of applying that over the CQUK every once and a while but didn't know if it would be recommended or not, or is the CQUK going to be more than enough to protect the paint?

There is no reason to put something over CQUK. CQUK is a long term coating. CarPro does offer Reload if you really feel the need to put something over it. The gloss from just CQUK is awesome. I use 2-layers of CQUK.

[MarkD51]

Could you put wax over the CQUK, I was thinking of ordering some Megiuars D156 synthetic spray wax and was thinking of applying that over the CQUK every once and a while but didn't know if it would be recommended or not, or is the CQUK going to be more than enough to protect the paint?

As has been suggested, Carpro CQUK is an ultra durable product that actually has no need to be topped with other wax or sealant products. But Carpro Reload is a product which was designed to go hand in hand with CQuartz, and is also sold as a Kit.

CQuartz by common end user's methods (no IR Heat Lights to cure) can as I understand it take about a full 7 days to fully cure before one should wet the surface. Reason is, water spotting can occur during this time before full cure occurs.

The Reload both acts as a protectant for CQuartz while it is in this "curing phase", and it also doubles as a refresher, and adds a bit more slickness and gloss to CQUK.

Reload can be applied within 1 hour after applying CQUK, and if one can wait slightly longer, 2-3 hours, or overnight, I think this is then even better.

For Exterior Trim, you will be hard pressed to find a more durable and better protectant than CQuartz DLX Coating.

The only downsides to using these two products, is a lot of other detailing products you now may have in your arsenal will be redundant to use on this vehicle. And thus, if you'r the type of person who wants to try new products, and wax-protect your paint on a regular basis, you will be out of luck, as you won't need to do anything to paint and trim other than just washing for a long long time.

This of course does have great benefits also, in that life has been made easier for you, especially on such a large vehicle, and you can dedicate your time to doing other things
such as interior cleaning-detailing, under hood detailing, and other maintainence tasks.

An important consideration, and that you have a PC DA Machine, it would be highly advisable that the paint will be in as perfect condition possible before application of such ceramic coatings, as you will be locking in the quality of the finish for a long time.

Prep as always is paramount to achieving the best final results, that the paint has any minor swirling-defects removed first, and that the paint is as pristine clean as possible before application of such a coating. The coating is actually the easiest part of the process IMO, it's all the other work to prep the paint, and trim which is the hardest parts of such a full detail-coating.

And that it would make no logical sense to apply such a protectant, then decide 2-3 months later you are not liking the way the paint looks, and then wish to take polisher to paint to correct. You'll have just removed a quite expensive paint protectant.

My Tahoe wears both CQuartz products mentioned here, and the only regrets were not using them sooner. Both are fantastic products and come with my highest recommendation. Seemingly expensive, yes, the initial cost, but actually two of the most "economical" products that can be had, when one considers the level of protection, and mar resistance CQUK provide, for how long they both last and protect against the elements. And as well, the savings of time, which is often hard to place a price upon.

As for tire products, and if your tires have no raised white lettering, do give the new Turtle Wax Endura Tire Coating Kit a try. Many, including myself like this product, easy to apply, comes with a tire cleaner spray, lasts a long time, keeps the tires from turning brown.
Both my vehicles have this product on the tires now. Many other Tire Dressings I have now sit unused.
Hope this all helps,
Mark

[MarkD51]

Although many here may not use CQuartz Coatings, there are quite many who do use a myriad of other Carpro Products, such as their Iron-X Remover, Tar Remover, Eraser, and other products like their Polishes, etc because they work, and do their intended jobs admirably.

Virtually all have the same "process" when doing a full detail, regardless of the final protectant (LSP) used.

That is, Wash, Iron-X, Clay, Polish, Eraser Prep, then Wax, Sealant or Coating.

My White Tahoe shockingly had thousands of "purple spots" when I used the Iron-X, it was nice knowing all that Iron contamination was now gone, and removed. One usually will experience the very same regardless of vehicle age, even straight from the Dealer's Showroom Floor.

There are others who now make such ferrous contamination removal products, and usually all serious-professional detailers have such in their arsenals.

Iron contamination on paint, is akin to having a sliver in your hand. Claying only "shaves" the particle exposed above the paint surface and leaves the rest.

Iron-X totally dissolves imbedded Iron particles from the paint. You'll note a Clay Bar is staying a lot cleaner after Iron-X use.

[Corey06]

Although many here may not use CQuartz Coatings, there are quite many who do use a myriad of other Carpro Products, such as their Iron-X Remover, Tar Remover, Eraser, and other products like their Polishes, etc because they work, and do their intended jobs admirably.

Virtually all have the same "process" when doing a full detail, regardless of the final protectant (LSP) used.

That is, Wash, Iron-X, Clay, Polish, Eraser Prep, then Wax, Sealant or Coating.

My White Tahoe shockingly had thousands of "purple spots" when I used the Iron-X, it was nice knowing all that Iron contamination was now gone, and removed. One usually will experience the very same regardless of vehicle age, even straight from the Dealer's Showroom Floor.

There are others who now make such ferrous contamination removal products, and usually all serious-professional detailers have such in their arsenals.

Iron contamination on paint, is akin to having a sliver in your hand. Claying only "shaves" the particle exposed above the paint surface and leaves the rest.

Iron-X totally dissolves imbedded Iron particles from the paint. You'll note a Clay Bar is staying a lot cleaner after Iron-X use.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to write that post, I appreciate it, sure has helped me make my decision. I have ordered the cquartz UK, the Iron X since I do have all those little rust specs on my new truck, I ordered the carpro Eraser, and Car pro Reflect polish to remove the light swirling, also ordered Carpro DLX coating. Cant wait to get to work on the truck! One more quick question how much of the carpro cquartz should I expect to go through, I only ordered the 30ML kit, is that going to be enough to do my truck? It is a pretty big truck, I didn't see the 50ml kit until after I had ordered.