Help with Poorboys products!

[bluzman]

I just got done detailing my dads truck for fathers day. I used SSR 2.0 with a sonus fx2 white pad. I seemed to have a hard time removing it., it smeared around alot before it would come off. I tried using less product, but it still seemed difficult to remove. Did I do something wrong?? I worked the product for what seem like a lomg time. Also one last question, the truck had some spots on the hood that looked like water spots. The strongest polish I have is SSR 2.5 I used itwth a lake country yellow cutting pad. They would not come off with that combo. Any suggestions on how to remove those spots.


On a side note, the truck turned out very nice. I used WG sealant as my LSP. Very nice look on his silver truck!! I would love to post some pics for everyone to see, but as soon as I took it home it started raining!!! Stupid A$$ weatherman, was not supposed to rain today and only a 20% chance tommorrow!! Oh well, the old man loved it!!

[cwcad]

From what you have described I would have to say that you did not work the product long enough. It should end up with a clear haze that wipes off with almost no effort. Smearing is what leads me to believe that it was not worked enough.

What speed were you running the PC? I usually spread the area at speed three. Then bump it up to six until the product flashes. I work in small section(2x2) with a pad that is primed with product. Adding less and less product as the paint correcting moves thru the detail.

What I did on some real bad water spots was to use SSR 3. I also followed with Poorboy's ProPolish to clear up the buffer haze and the spots were gone. A lot of times ProPolish is enough to do water spots but these were from six months of absolute no care and daily water sprinklers from my lawn irrigation system. I used an aggressive pad but started with the least aggressive and worked my way up until I got the results that I liked. I moved slowly and checked my work often to attain the results.

[bluzman]

I guess I did not work it long enough. The haze I got was not clear and it didnt wip off easy! Thanks for the advice. Is pro polish the same as SSR1, b/c I have that. Let me ask you another question. When I first start I make an X on a fresh pad, once it gets primed how much should I add, maybe one line a 1/2 line??

[cwcad]

No ProPolish is not the same as SSR1. They can do similar things but they are not the same. ProPolish is much more versatile. It can be used by hand to clean the paint. IT can be used with a PC to clean and clear marring and haze. With a rotary it can do some paint correction. Given time and practice. It has replaced AIO as one of my favorite products. SSR1 is not as versatile. IT does a good job. "I know ProPolish, Mr. SSR1, and your are no ProPolish." (That last sentence was supposed to be a joke)

It is true of any product....the more that you use it the more you will learn how versatile it can be. It is also very pad dependant. I think that it cleans my black truck very well. I also find it to be a good base for most any LSP. I have used it with all Poorboy's sealants and waxes as well Liquid Sourveran and Mother's Reflection line. Although I have never used it with Zaino products I believe that it would be a good base for that as well. Yet, since Zaino has its own paint cleaner I use that product in stead of ProPolish.

I know to much information. It seeems that I have a lot of time on my hands tonite.

[ScottB]

I agree.

You need to work the polish until is flash cures, if it is flash curing (dries to a haze) to quickly, then spritz your pad with a qd'er to keep it damp. Also note if you run into a problem removing polish never worry, you can rewash car as a worst case or most likely spritz with a qd'er and wipe off.

[bluzman]

Thats what I ended up doing killr, misting the area with a little water and wiping it off.