View Full Version : Marine 31 Boat Detailing Class Pictures - April 18th, 2015

Mike Phillips
04-23-2015, 02:51 PM
Marine 31 Boat Detailing Class Pictures - April 18th, 2015 (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/marine-31-boat-detailing-classes/90968-marine-31-boat-detailing-class-pictures-april-18th-2015-a.html)

Note: The next class will be in August call Nick at 1-877-797-8803 to get registered.

Here's the group shot with John Greviskis from Ship Shape TV!



Thank you to everyone that attended!
I hope you all had as much fun as Nick and I had and also learned some tips, techniques and tools to make detailing boats faster, more effective and more fun.

This is the thread to post your comments, feedback and pictures from the class. If you're not a member of this forum you need to join the forum in order to post to it.

Click here to join the forum (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/register.php)

If you need help then give either myself or Nick a call or e-mail

Mike: 1-800-869-3011 x206

Nick: 1-800-869-3011 x215

Thank you!


Mike Phillips
04-23-2015, 02:51 PM
Went through the pictures taken during the class, going to post them in the order they were taken...

Our classes start with a Power Point Presentation where we go over all the topics to be covered in the class and then we focus in on the first topic.




After discussing the first topic it's time for hands-on practice. One of the topics we cover is the order in which to do each step. I keep the focus on reducing steps.

So before washing the boat outside, we went over how to polish the metal brightwork and machine scrub the non-skid. By tackling these two components BEFORE washing the boat you can remove the polish residue off the metal brightwork while washing the boat, (this save you at least one step), and the rinse the non-skid while washing the boat, (this saves you a step.


Saving steps = saving time and energy
To clean and polish all the metal brightwork we're using Marine 31 Stainless Steel and Aluminum Brightening Soap (http://www.marine31.com/marine-31-stainless-steel-polishing-soap.html) which uses all natural soap flakes without any of the nasty solvents or abrasives used in a lot of metal polishes.

You can apply this and wipe it off or what I find is a lot easier is to apply it and then wash it off. Thus applying it BEFORE you wash the boat makes the job faster and cleaner.






Mike Phillips
04-23-2015, 02:52 PM
Next we scrubbed the hard, molded-in non-skid. Now you can do this by hand with a scrub brush or using a brush on a pole. Both these approaches work.

To REALLY get the non-skid clean I showed how to MACHINE SCRUB the non-skid using Cyclo brushes on both the Cyclo Polisher and the Porter Cable Polishers using Marine 31 Port to Starboard All Purpose Cleaner (http://www.marine31.com/marine-31-all-purpose-cleaner.html).


Another reason I show doing this step by machine is because later we're going to SEAL the molded-in non skid surfaces using the Marine 31 Non-Skid Clear Sealant with Carnauba (http://www.marine31.com/marine-31-non-skid-boat-wax.html) and like a lot of detailing procedures the most important aspect of sealing non-skid is starting with a clean surface and machine cleaning does a better job of cleaning non-skid than you can ever do by hand.

This is another step you want to do BEFORE washing the boat because you don't want to use electric tools around water. So we polished the metal brightwork and machine scrubbed the non-skid with the boat inside the studio and then after finishing these two steps moved the boat outside into the hot Florida sun to wash the boat.

The order you do the steps is up to you... I like to find ways that reduce the number of steps while still getting the job done fast and efficient.

Of course most people won't have an air conditioned studio to work in when detailing a boat but we like provide a fun, cool and educational work environment for all our classes.


Mike Phillips
04-23-2015, 02:52 PM
Boat Washing

Nothing like a hot sunny day here in Stuart, Florida to step outside wash a boat and get a little Florida sunshine!

In our boat detailing classes we go over personal safety when detailing boats. Here's the Power Point Slide that leads into the discussion on boat detailing safety.


Having sturdy scaffolding or in our case rolling safety ladders with perforated treads. That and brushes with extendable handles to reach the top of the T-top.





Here's Oscar foaming the outside of the boat using the Marine 31 1/2 gallon Foam Gun (http://www.marine31.com/boat-washing-foam-gun.html) with Marine 31 Gel Coat Wash & Wax with Carnauba (http://www.marine31.com/marine-31-gel-coat-boat-wash.html)




Here's Daniel power rinsing the suds off the boat using the power washer from his mobile detailing van. He has an incredible fully self-contained set-up enabling him to tackle anything!


At all our classes we show a wide variety of tools including the Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying towels (http://www.marine31.com/guzzler-triple-kit.html) for drying off the water to avoid water spots.


Here's Frank using the Ultimate Guzzler (http://www.marine31.com/waffle-weave-drying-towel.html) which measures 28" by 44" and has pockets on both ends to slide your hands into.

And also the Absorber XL Drying Towel (http://www.marine31.com/absorber-xl-drying-towel.html)which is a synthetic chamois. Here's Jeff drying the topside.



Mike Phillips
04-23-2015, 02:53 PM
Special Celebrity Guest

John Greviskis, the host of "Ship Shape TV" stopped by to say hi and chat with all the guys....















Mike Phillips
04-23-2015, 02:55 PM
Removing Oxidation and Restoring Gloss

After talking shop with Ship Shape John it was time to do as the power point presentation stated and that's...

Get busy!

All our classes are VERY HANDS-ON!

In fact over the years I would say that is the most common compliment and feedback we receive about our classes and that is there's not much sitting around time... most of the time you're on your feet working and learning.

Next up...

How to remove oxidation

The first thing we do is discuss the two general categories of boats, that would be,



During the power point presentation we go over how these two types of finishes are very different and it is of the utmost importance to know which type of finish you're working on otherwise you will make a VERY costly mistake. I explain what the risk is when you make a mistake and how to avoid the risk to save yourself a lot of headache and expense.

Once we cover painted versus gel-coat hulls we move onto how to work on gel-coat hulls.

Now there's all kinds of ways to remove oxidation but my goal is to always show people the easiest way to do it while getting the best results.

When it comes to removing oxidation, most people think the best and fastest way to do this is to use a rotary buffer with a wool pad and an aggressive compound.

And that's how most of the industry does this type of work.

No me.

Removing oxidation with a rotary buffer and a wool pad means PUSHING HARD against the boat for hours and hours. It's incredibly hot, hard work.

What I show for medium and severe oxidation is how to reach the same goal by doing a whole lot less work and a whole lot less pushing a rotary buffer hard against the side of a boat hull that also by the way is at an angle pointed away from you making the process even more difficult using the traditional approach.

First up, I show the simplest known way to remove oxidation and that is to hand sand using a simple flexible hand backing pad with an extremely high quality sandpaper. I explain why it's important to use the highest quality sanding products you can obtain as there are 4 strong reasons.


Restoring an oxidized gel-coat boat
This is the advanced part of the class and this also tends to be the portion of the class most guys are interested in learning about. There are no books, videos or other boat detailing classes that I'm aware of where you can get this type of very specific information and the techniques to do this type of work correctly.


I always show two ways to hand sand starting with how to wrap a backing pad....



Followed by the correct way to move your sanding pad over the surface. There's a right way and a wrong way. There's also hand speed and pressure to be aware of as well as how long to sand.




Next I show an easier way to hand sand... a much easier way...





These guys are laughing now while I'm doing all the work but they won't be laughing when it's their turn!


Next up is the easiest way to sand and that's to machine sand. This portion of the class goes over how to use both air sanders and electric machine sanders safely as well as the correct techniques for machine sanding.


Machine Compounding
After sanding it's time to remove your sanding marks. This can be done a number of ways but I show the fastest way and that's using a rotary buffer with a wool pad and a high quality compound.

You're always going to want and need a rotary buffer when working on oxidized boats but the amount of work needed to remove sanding marks is FAR LESS than the amount of work to use the old way of compounding for hours and hours.


Techniques for using a rotary buffer
The rotary buffer can be a friend or a foe, it all comes down into how you hold the tool and we go over that in the class too....



That's red pigmented gel-coat or polyester resin you see on the face of the wool pad. That's normal and to be expected.

Whenever you're doing compounding work you'll have two things building up on the face of your pad and we go over why it's important to work clean and then how to clean your pads as you work around the boat.


Next it's time for the class to start sanding and buffing.


Mike Phillips
04-23-2015, 02:56 PM
Action time!












Here's the results after Captain's One-Step Compound & Polish both with a rotary buffer followed by the Flex 3401 Forced Rotation/Forced Oscillation Dual Action Polisher





Then we stripped the gel-coat to remove any polishing oils....




Then applied the Captain's Boat Coating with UV50










Mike Phillips
04-23-2015, 02:57 PM
Interior Detailing

During the morning portion of the class before we washed the boat we polished the metal, cleaned the non-skid and also washed and cleaned all the vinyl surfaces.

We did NOT however apply any protection to the non-skid or vinyl surfaces as that's the last step after exterior detailing.

For the interior detailing Nick shows and explains how to use the Marine 31 Mildew Guard followed by how to apply the Marine 31 Clear Non-Skid with Carnauba.












And if you look at the results... the vinyl and floor both match, that is they are a very pristine beautiful white color just like new. (This is a 2001 boat).

Nice work guys!


Mike Phillips
04-23-2015, 02:57 PM
Here's the graduating class for April 2015!

Eric Hutter

Jeff Wagner

Stephen Wines

Frank Saladrigas

Bob Ashley

Mike Hogan

Daniel Torres

Rinardo Wilson

Alex Rodrigues

Wayne Butts

Todd Maersch

Frank Maersch

Oscar Lee

Joe Guaino

Josue DeJesus

Bill Pagano

Anthony Camanile

Bill Allen

Derrick Steinke

Bryan Cook

Ed Yoder

Sam McGinley

Vaughn Collins


Thanks everyone! This was a fun class and the boat looks better than new!

If you ever have any questions or need any help you're now part of the Marine 31 family, so don't hesitate to get a hold of either Nick or I.

:xyxthumbs: :xyxthumbs: :xyxthumbs:

Mike Phillips
04-23-2015, 02:58 PM
Final results!

Here's where we started out from...



Here's a few beauty shots I took the next day as the boat was leaving....










Time to go fishing!


Aaryn NZ
04-24-2015, 02:25 AM
First off - Awesome post Mike! :props:

For those of us that just aren't quite close enough to be able to attend all the fun things that happen at Autogeek, the way you document these events in posts like this one is absolutely brilliant!!! A BIG Kiwi "Chur Bro" to you mate! :dblthumb2:

What a class to be part of. Even though I knew it was 26ft, I didn't realise just how big it was until you see the pictures with people standing beside it, what a canvas to work on. Looks like everyone had a great time & certainly a whole lot was learnt throughout the day.

A couple of quick questions for you Mike -

The Marine 31 Brightening soap - can this be used outside marine detailing? Aluminium running boards, nudge bars etc that people don't want a highly polished look?

Also - With gel-coat, is there the soft/hard scenario like automotive paints?

Well done & hats off to all invoved! :dblthumb2: Mike & Nick - top work guys, I'm sure you both run this class just as great as Boot Camp! To the people behind the scenes - props for the bits we don't see. :props: To the class - you lucky lucky :buffing: Jealous of you all. Again - thank you Mike for the in-depth post, as close as I can get (being 8000+ miles away) with out actually being there! Appreciate the effort & passion behind each post! :dblthumb2:

Aaryn NZ.

Mike Phillips
04-24-2015, 07:51 AM
First off - Awesome post Mike! :props:

For those of us that just aren't quite close enough to be able to attend all the fun things that happen at Autogeek, the way you document these events in posts like this one is absolutely brilliant!!!

A BIG Kiwi "Chur Bro" to you mate! :dblthumb2:

What a class to be part of.

Thank you very much for the compliment Aaryn.

Nick not only helps me to teach the class but also helps me by taking pictures. It takes a little time to go through the pictures and create a thread like this but like the saying goes...

A picture tells a thousand words

There's over 100 pictures on the first page of this thread... that's a lot of words...

And the pictures in this thread will endure for as long as this forum is around and not disappear. I also add key words to every picture I upload so Google finds them when people search for help detailing boats or looking for boat detailing classes.

I know some people are very interested in the boat detailing market and a lot of boat owners simply like to do their own work, not everyone will be able to attend our boat detailing classes so the pictures of the tools, products, pads and even the action shots will help them when they tackle their boat.

Our next class is slated for August and I'm working on getting a 37' Black Contender here for that class.

Even though I knew it was 26ft, I didn't realize just how big it was until you see the pictures with people standing beside it, what a canvas to work on. Looks like everyone had a great time & certainly a whole lot was learnt throughout the day.

Believe it or not, in some ways a large Center Console like this is a LOT easier to buff out than a smaller boat.

A couple of quick questions for you Mike -

The Marine 31 Brightening soap - can this be used outside marine detailing? Aluminum running boards, nudge bars etc that people don't want a highly polished look?

Yes. Plus it's complete safe for you and your skin. You can where gloves if you like but there's nothing in the soap that will harm you or the environment. Also no foul smells.

You can use it by itself and wipe the residue off buy the way I teach using it in the class is to use it BEFORE washing the boat and the simply wash the residues off when you wash the boat. This saves a step and is actually faster.

Also - With gel-coat, is there the soft/hard scenario like automotive paints?

Definitely "yes".

I actually covered the reason why in this article I wrote in 1997 called,

The Lesson White Paint Teaches Us (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22982-lesson-white-paint-teaches-us.html)

Here's the pertinent portion...

The Mohs Scale of Hardness

In 1822, an Austrian scientist by the name of Fredrick Mohs created a scale from 1 to 10, for measuring and determining hardness. Hardness refers to the measure of resistance a surfaces has to abrasion. Talc is rated at 1 while a diamond is rated at 10.

Titanium dioxide, the substance used as pigmentation in white paint, is rated at 7 on the Mohs scale. As far as pigments go, titanium dioxide is very hard. By contrast, black paints, (single-stage), are soft. The pigment used to make paint black is Carbon black, which has a Mohs hardness rating of 2.

While some will argue the Mohs Hardness Scale isn't the best way to explain paint hardness, in this example I'm only using it as an indicator of the hardness of different substances used as pigments or colorants used in automotive paints and when it comes to a single stage paint the type of pigment used WILL effect the hardness or softness of the resin/paint and this will affect how easy or hard it is for someone to work on the paint.

Pigments can be hard or soft or somewhere in-between. When you add a pigment to a resin the pigment will make the resin harder or softer or keep it about the same depending upon the hardness of the pigment. White boat tend to be the hardest gel-coats there are to restore once they become seriously oxidized and stained or even filled with hologram scratches by improper buffing.

I also have the only article on the net about holograms in boats and the problems this causes to the hull and why it's such a problem in the boat manufacturing industry and the boat detailing business.

Holograms in gel-coat boats by Mike Phillips (http://www.marine31online.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138)

As of this morning the above article has been viewed over 18,000 times so I know I've hit a nerve in the marine forum world.

Well done & hats off to all involved! :dblthumb2: Mike & Nick - top work guys, I'm sure you both run this class just as great as Boot Camp! To the people behind the scenes - props for the bits we don't see. :props:

You can be assured of that. Bob McKee is not only a car guy but he's also a boat guy and he expects everyone here to provide the best in customer service in all departments including our auto and marine detailing classes. He also provides all the support that's needed to provide a "best in class" experience as you know from attending the January Detailing Boot Camp Class and boy did we have fun buffing on some incredible cars!

Pictures & Comments: January 2015 Detailing Boot Camp Class! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-saturday-detailing-101/88524-pictures-january-2015-detailing-boot-camp-class.html)


To the class - you lucky lucky :buffing: Jealous of you all.

Again - thank you Mike for the in-depth post, as close as I can get (being 8000+ miles away) with out actually being there!

Appreciate the effort & passion behind each post! :dblthumb2:

Aaryn NZ.

Thanks Aaryn, as a detailer and a forum member that knows how much work not only goes into a proper detail but also the time and work that goes behind capturing the pictures and then creating a proper write-up that's a really nice compliment.

:) :Picture:

04-24-2015, 08:47 AM
I want to hear more about this coating...someone contacted me about their boat. While I didn't take the class...I was there when we did Eric's boat, and it's a lot of work. Great work guys.

Mike Phillips
11-16-2015, 09:49 AM
I want to hear more about this coating...someone contacted me about their boat. While I didn't take the class...I was there when we did Eric's boat, and it's a lot of work. Great work guys.

It's the Captain's Coating in the Marine 31 line.

Marine 31 Captain's Boat Coating with UV50 (http://www.marine31.com/marine-31-captains-boat-coating.html)

I'd recommend getting signed-up for the next class Antti, it's only $300.00 and we go over so much in the class.

Here's the link to get signed-up...

Marine 31 Boat Detailing Class - February 6th, 2016 (http://www.marine31.com/marine-31-boat-detailing-class.html)

The class will basically follow the contents of my new how-to book which I wrote as an outline for the class.

How To Detail Boats With Marine 31 (http://www.marine31.com/marine-31-boat-book.html)

Hope to see you in February.