CQUK/DLUX order and prep questions

[cduprey]

Hey guys, I’ve been searching and trying to get concrete answers to some questions but I figured I’d just make a post. Going to be my first time using a coating- 2013 Camry SE black with a blue flake to the paint. Paint isn’t in terrible condition, but haven’t got a good look at it yet. Will probably get the car for 3-5 days starting 4/23.

Here’s what I have to work with:
CQUK, DLUX, PBL Surface coating- Hoping to coat every inch of the car. My thoughts were CQUK to paint, DLUX to plastic trim, PBL to windows and lights. Will be using Eraser and DP coating prep polish, respectively.

G110v2 with WG Uber compound and Finishing Glaze (as well as UC and UP) I was going to order TSR, but I read that even Eraser won’t remove some of the oils WG products leave behind? If that’s true then I’m willing to order some Menzerna products but I’m not too familiar with them. I use the 5.5” flat LC pads with 4-5 of every color.

Now the ordering questions. Would you tape normally, compound/polish as needed (least aggressive products first, of course, as well as a test spot!), then take the tape off and use eraser on both the paint and plastic in prep for CQUK and DLUX?

Should I tape the trim when coating the paint? Or would that leave a residue on the trim? I usually just use blue painter’s tape.

So then maybe the glass will be last? I see a lot of people polishing glass and am wondering if I’m coating it, maybe I should too.

Lastly, how do you guys go about coating the wheels when you’re not taking them off? Just try to clean/clay the best you can and coat wherever your hand can reach? Or just the faces?

Sorry, I realize this is really long as I tend to overthink everything. I’ll be doing the interior first, then the engine bay (think I’m going to try using Megs APC and the DP trim detailer-will be my first time doing an engine bay too), then onto correction. Maybe I’m just overthinking it because it’s for my girlfriend’s dad.
Thanks for all of your help! :xyxthumbs:
-Chris

[HateSwirls]

IMO the eraser will remove any left over oils, if your skeptical about it hit it twice using the eraser, I'm sure it would remove anything left on the paint with a second cleaning.

As for taping I don't when coating , if I hit the trim by accident no big deal, just wipe the coating off as you hit the trim.
For the rest of your questions I'll let others help you as I'm new to coatings myself.

IMO if you follow the directions of each product to the "T" you'll be fine.

Enjoy your coating, I love it.

[Detail-Impressions]

Chris,
I suggest using all CarPro polish & Easer all are designed to work together.
Also suggest you check the proper temperature to apply UK & Dlux. I do not know your location?

Yes, I have used other products brands with UK/Dlux, but best results for me is staying with one product line. From the bottom up to top. This way there is not worry about product compatability (oils, negative reactions etc.).

Many different ways to get to the same finish, best of luck,sir.

[builthatch]

my answers are in pink


Hey guys, I’ve been searching and trying to get concrete answers to some questions but I figured I’d just make a post. Going to be my first time using a coating- 2013 Camry SE black with a blue flake to the paint. Paint isn’t in terrible condition, but haven’t got a good look at it yet. Will probably get the car for 3-5 days starting 4/23.

Here’s what I have to work with:
CQUK, DLUX, PBL Surface coating- Hoping to coat every inch of the car. My thoughts were CQUK to paint, DLUX to plastic trim, PBL to windows and lights. Will be using Eraser and DP coating prep polish, respectively.

G110v2 with WG Uber compound and Finishing Glaze (as well as UC and UP) I was going to order TSR, but I read that even Eraser won’t remove some of the oils WG products leave behind? If that’s true then I’m willing to order some Menzerna products but I’m not too familiar with them. I use the 5.5” flat LC pads with 4-5 of every color.
i don't know anything about those products. i use the OPT hyper twins because they are compatible with everything re: coatings, work a long time and don't dust. christ you don't even necessarily need ipa or eraser after their use before coating, haha. but, i will say that eraser seems very effective so i'd be surprised that something can't be removed by it if the product is meant for correcting (vs. correcting and protecting together, like an AIO). i think the recommendation to use products within the coating family isn't a bad one, but obviously not required.

Now the ordering questions. Would you tape normally, compound/polish as needed (least aggressive products first, of course, as well as a test spot!), then take the tape off and use eraser on both the paint and plastic in prep for CQUK and DLUX? i would do exactly that

Should I tape the trim when coating the paint? Or would that leave a residue on the trim? I usually just use blue painter’s tape.
no need, just be very careful. if you get a little on something you don't want, wipe immediately with eraser

So then maybe the glass will be last? I see a lot of people polishing glass and am wondering if I’m coating it, maybe I should too.
if you mean solely to prep it for coating (vs. correcting some damage with ceriglass and glass pads), then yeah, i'd definitely polish just to assure the surface is as clean as possible and then wipe with eraser. a light polish and light to no cut pad will probably be all you need to wipe out any residual water spots or whatever topical stuff might concern you. then prep with eraser and coat.

Lastly, how do you guys go about coating the wheels when you’re not taking them off? Just try to clean/clay the best you can and coat wherever your hand can reach? Or just the faces?
most people if the wheels are on do the best they can with the faces and all parts within reach that aren't the barrels. this is where various coating tools can come into play - cut up make up applicators, blue shop towel pieces, etc. but if you are using micro suedes you'll probably be ok. imo coating the barrels is such an important part of clean wheels that i don't see the point in doing just the faces and outer details unless it's a professional setting and the customer simply can't pay for that...but then again, faces and outer details would be better than nothing lol

Sorry, I realize this is really long as I tend to overthink everything. I’ll be doing the interior first, then the engine bay (think I’m going to try using Megs APC and the DP trim detailer-will be my first time doing an engine bay too), then onto correction. Maybe I’m just overthinking it because it’s for my girlfriend’s dad.
Thanks for all of your help! :xyxthumbs:
take your time and have fun. imo an adjustable nozzle spray bottle filled with water (to rinse away stuff with fine control) and various lug style bristle brushes can make engine detailing much easier.
-Chris

[Ebg18t]

My understanding is Wolfgang is made by Menzerna. So I doubt you would get less oils by going to Menzerna. Due to this i compound with Menzerna the polished with CarPro Reflect before going over everything with CarPro Eraser.

I don't tape the trim, just be careful and wipe off king the way. Your going to dLux the trim anyways.

As for glass, I will coat everything but the windshield. On my vehicle I didn't like water haze left on the windshield when it's raining. I think it made it hard to see at night (oncoming lights & street light reflections) . But everyone's results will vary.

[cduprey]

Chris,
I suggest using all CarPro polish & Easer all are designed to work together.
Also suggest you check the proper temperature to apply UK & Dlux. I do not know your location?

Yes, I have used other products brands with UK/Dlux, but best results for me is staying with one product line. From the bottom up to top. This way there is not worry about product compatability (oils, negative reactions etc.).

Many different ways to get to the same finish, best of luck,sir.
Thanks for the info, I'm located in Western Massachusetts. The garage will be heated but probably only about 60 degrees. Could bring a space heater if necessary. I'm thinking I'll grab some carpro reflect, and maybe some fixer if necessary, although I am hoping to just use WG TSR then reflect, then probably 2 passes of eraser


My understanding is Wolfgang is made by Menzerna. So I doubt you would get less oils by going to Menzerna. Due to this i compound with Menzerna the polished with CarPro Reflect before going over everything with CarPro Eraser.

I don't tape the trim, just be careful and wipe off king the way. Your going to dLux the trim anyways.

As for glass, I will coat everything but the windshield. On my vehicle I didn't like water haze left on the windshield when it's raining. I think it made it hard to see at night (oncoming lights & street light reflections) . But everyone's results will vary. I think I'll try to finish up with reflect then eraser just like you. Probably WG TSR any of the deeper scratches. I just talked to him tonight as I was looking at his car- "yeah I have the unlimited wash package at the golden nozzle", I told him :nomore: once I get the coating on!
As for the windshield, I've always applied rain-x with good success-seems like some people love it or hate it. I suppose I could always just polish it off if it happens to haze. Thanks for the help!

[MarkD51]

I did such last year on my white '97 Tahoe, I polished the entire vehicle again with WG TSR, (as I had used TSR about 2 years ago, but only went with WGDGPS 3.0 as a topper at that time)

There were a just a very few minor RIDS on the Hood, whipped out WG Uber Compound, got them out, then again finished the hood with TSR. For both products I used LC white 5.5" flat pads.

All that was used after was Carpro Eraser, a few clean MF Towels, then went on to CQuartz UK.

I had absolutely no problems, and although the Tahoe is white, I used very high scrutiny, and very good lighting to see what I was doing when laying down the CQ UK.

With the Carpro Applicator and Suede MF the coating went on like a sheet of glass, was super easy, and in retrospect, I basically only needed my eyes to insure I was overlapping the coating application so absolutely nothing was missed. (Overlapping of course might make you use a little more product, but I found no harm-no foul)

I actually could've closed my eyes, that's how level, and flawless the coating went on. It actually didn't even look like I needed to come behind with an MF Towel, but did, as to follow directions to a T, and not try something different per the instructions. I applied to one panel at a time, then a minute or two later, wiped with a fresh CP Orange Boa MF Towel. I used four 4"x4" MF sheets on the entire lower body, and two for the roof. (Did the Roof one day, and the lower body the next)

I used two Boa Towels to wipe for the entire lower part of the vehicle if I remember correctly. Just only minutes past an hour's time, I applied CP Reload.

This application was about 9-10 months ago. Only have re-applied Reload twice since.

Very rock hard protective finish the UK left, love it!
If, in the future, I ever buy another vehicle, there's no doubt CQ UK will be my first choice.

[MarkD51]

Sorry, should've also mentioned, to not rely on just Carpro Eraser for prepping any plastic trim that was previously treated with other products in the past. A good APC should be used to insure parts are totally clean before DLX application.

As Corey has stated about Carpro Eraser, it was only designed to remove polishing oils, and not durable waxes-sealants, or other protectants.

[cduprey]

Mark, I think in my head I have it planned out as you did yours. I went a little coating crazy over the long winter-multiple cquk with reload kits, as well as pbl surface coating. I will definitely be using overlapping, crossing motions. I have cobra miracle and purple towels, as well as edge less microfibers from TRC. Haven't seen much about only using car pro microfibers. I also bought extra suede applicators in preparation.

I will definitely be hitting the trim with Meg's d101 to clean it up.

Appreciate the help! Anything else I'm missing? I'm tempted to write down my planned step by step, but I know it's hard to read a crazy long list. Thanks again everyone, I can't wait to get a coating under my belt

[cduprey]

So I placed a last minute order today, and I asked nick if he thought it was necessary to pick up the reflect. He said the eraser should pull anything that the tsr left behind-that is its job, isn't it? Not that I don't trust nick cause he's never steered me wrong, but I'm still quite tempted to pick some up, or may try the optimum polish as recommended earlier.

I know I always overthink everything, but I think I'd rather be safe than sorry. Am I crazy?

[MarkD51]

I think that a big benefit-advantage to getting the best results is having a good garage with good lighting. A garage is something I don't have, just a 2-car Carport.

The reasons I think this, is coming up against the difficulties of doing all the prep work, and then wanting to get the coating on within the same day.

Here, it is commonly a windy dust bowl 365 days a year. To do all that hard work and prep, and then "not" get the coating on didn't leave a good taste to me in my personal situation.

And believe me, after correcting this large SUV to get the best attainable perfection of paint finish too many hours, and was extremely taxing. If I was 30 years younger, maybe it wouldn't have been so bad? LOL I'm 60.

It was one good reason why I felt I'd start from the top, and work my way down. And to break the vehicle into two major sections, the Roof (which IMO was the hardest) and then the rest of the vehicle.

The roof alone was pretty taxing, in that with trying the use of the Werner Step Stool, it was a no-go. I could still not easily reach the center of the Roof with DA Polisher, nor with Eraser, or CQuartz Application. It meant the use of a 4' Ladder and this quickly takes its toll on the body, getting up and down, moving the Ladder, the worry of slipping, the difficulty of comfort, the DA extended at a virtual Arm's length to operate, applying product to Pads, cleaning Pads on the Fly, swapping Pads, setting the Bottles down, grabbing towels to remove product, insuring adequate lighting, moving lighting, etc etc. Long story short, a PITA! LOL

As soreness-rigor mortis sets in, it's hard to "crack the whip" on yourself to press on.

The roof was fully corrected and prepped for coating, then coated, and that was one day of work. Figured "Rome wasn't built in a day", and to then do the rest of the vehicle the next day. (weather permitting)

As this soreness and feeling run down-tired sets in, then comes the part of Coating Application, and this worried me a good deal, as I surely didn't wish to apply in a hasty fashion.

I felt fortunate, that the Coating itself was actually the easiest process of the whole detail, that it applied easily, didn't behave funny in any respect, but still, one has to pay attention to properly apply, to not rush for the sake of getting done, and it did at times feel like a battle between mind, and body.

A definite tip, and a definite must IMO, is to have way more high quality MF Towels and Polishing Pads on hand than you'll initially think you'll need. One of Mike Phillips good ole tips I reckon, "to work clean".

After I completed the Coating, then it was off to the Washing Machine! (Uggh!) LOL

In retrospect, I'm sure glad that CQuartz lasts a long time! :-)