Single stage paint

[shiners/buck]

I have a nice Galaxy 500 it's well it looks like black cherry single stage paint .
I've got some Wolfgang swirl remover on its way with finish glaze will the two add the look I and customer want for a show?
I have not worked on single stage paint much.all advice is welcome!
And will 2 pads be enough? And is wg swirl remover a polish?
Hope I'm not over my head!

[JimmyH5]

FWIW.... single stage seems to be quite easy to shine-up; of course, all paints differ some and trying products would probably be the advise most would give. I've gotten single stage Toyota paint to look like glass with cheap/mild compound by hand... so, couldn't imagine less of a finish using a machine and polish, which is what it sounds like your going to use; followed by a good QD may give the shine, but who knows how much defect removal you're dealing with.... I'd say go at it and see : )

[tuscarora dave]

Do a search for Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze and read up on it a little.

Do you have a photo of the car you could post?

Start here... http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

[2black1s]

Be careful! And be consistent. A test spot may have never been as important as it is now. Single stage metallics can be tricky, especially if they are not the factory original finish.

There are different types of single stage paints, i.e. alkyd enamels, acrylic enamels, acrylic lacquers (there's more but these are the most common in the last 50 years or so) and they will each react to polishing differently.

I would read some of Mike's articles on single stage paints.

Then the number one piece of advice I could add is this... Black Cherry sounds like a metallic color to me so I'll make the assumption that is the case. If it's not, then you can disregard the following: It's very easy to polish through one coat of paint to next and if you do you will leave what I'll call a "halo" or a "ring" which is the effect of bringing the metallic particles closer to the surface around the edge of where you've gone through one coat to the next. For this reason you are limited on how much polishing you can do and how aggressive you can get with your polisher. Be careful. This is especially applicable to lacquer refinishes because each coat is so thin. Enamels and factory lacquers are a little more forgiving in this sense.

Being that you are working on a Ford the original factory finish would have been enamel but if the car has been refinished it could be either lacquer or enamel.

Good Luck.

[Mike Phillips]

I have a nice Galaxy 500 it's well it looks like black cherry single stage paint .



What year?

We've had one 1963 Ford Galaxie 500 LX here for our Detailing boot Camp Class, this was the car we used to teach how to use the Rupes Bigfoot Paint Polishing System.

Detailing Classes - 1963 Ford Galaxie 500 XL (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/71036-detailing-classes-1963-ford-galaxie-500-xl.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2076/1963_Galaxie_001.jpg


I had another 1963 Galaxy here with a modern basecoat/clearcoat finish in dire need of polishing. I used it for an article to show that over time paint becomes dirty and the kind of dirty that doesn't wash off.


How to remove stains and embedded dirt out of paint (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/56794-how-remove-stains-embedded-dirt-out-paint.html)


Paint Staining
Sometimes you'll hear the word stain or staining when talking about the condition of the paint. Another term would be embedded dirt.

The 1963 Galaxy has a modern basecoat/clearcoat finish. After using the Nanoskin Autoscrub Pad over all the horizontal surfaces I removed any and all above surface contaminants. In the video I repeated the baggie test multiple times to check and ensure all the contaminants were removed and in fact they were.

So where does the dirt come from? It's embedded in the microscopic surface imperfections of the paint. Here's a brand new white foam polishing pad next to the single pad I used to machine apply the Optimum GPS.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub012.jpg


Here's after machine polishing...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub004.jpg


And I used the same above Galaxie to show how to use Nanoskin products....


How To Use Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on 4 Different DA Polishers (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/56772-how-use-nanoskin-autoscrub-pads-4-different-da-polishers.html)



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub010.jpg




http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub009.jpg



Very cool cars....


:dblthumb2:








I've got some Wolfgang swirl remover on its way with finish glaze will the two add the look I and customer want for a show?



Is the paint already in nice condition? I mean does it already look "pretty good". It's clear and glossy, not chalky and oxidized?

IF the answer is "yes" then those two products will WORK GREAT!






I have not worked on single stage paint much. all advice is welcome!



BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN BUFFING AROUND ANY RAISED BODY LINE OR EDGE OF A PANEL.

Single stage paint tends to be much softer than basecoat/clearcoat paints. So don't buff on top of edges and raised body lines.

Also... here's what I teach in my detailing boot camp classes....

YOU DON'T KNOW WHO BUFFED ON THIS CAR BEFORE YOU. YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY USED. YOU CERTAINLY DON'T KNOW IF THEY WERE AS CAREFUL AS YOU'RE GOING TO BE.

The people that have buffed out this car before you may have been what I call Caveman Detailers. The kind of detailers that use aggressive compounds and wool pads on rotary buffers. (nothing wrong with wool pads, rotary buffers and compounds if you know what you're doing).

They may not have been careful on raised body lines and edges. Here's what that means to you.

The paint on a raised body line or an edge is what I call,

Whisper Thin


That means while it looks okay it's super thin. Anyone... ANYONE that buffs the car next by hand or machine will burn through it.

Is it your fault? Not if the other guy did the initial damage but you'll get the blame because you're the person that broke through.

So be very careful around edges and body lines because you don't know who buffed out this car before you, how many people have buffed it out over the years nor what they used.



Here's what you do....

Buff up to and edge don't buff ON the edge.

Buff up to a raised body line... don't buff ON the raised body line.








And will 2 pads be enough?



2 pads will be enough for two body panels.

These cars are HUGE! You want approximately one pad for each body panel, maybe two for the largest body panels like the hood, roof and trunk lid. Especially for the first step.

For the second step you can get away with about 4 pads to do your best work.

When pads become wet with product the performance of the pad and therefor the process is diminished. This means you're spinning your wheels.

Get more pads. Charge for them.

I'm guessing you're using a Porter Cable 7424 or some copy of it?





And is wg swirl remover a polish?



Yes. It is a medium cut polish.

In my how-to book on page 92 and 93 I explain that EVERY COMPOUND OR POLISH on the market can be placed into 1 of 4 categories and then list the categories.

Get a copy of my book (http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-create-a-show-car-shine-book.html) and read it. You'll learn a LOT. I guarantee it.

It's just as in-depth and packed with information as this reply I just typed out for you.





Hope I'm not over my head!



You're going to do fine, you just need some more pads.

Single stage paint is REAL paint.

Modern basecoat/clearcoats are basically a type of clear plastic.

Here's the practical difference.... single stage paint, (real paint), is actually fun and rewarding to polish. Basecoat/clearcoats paints, (plastic paints), are just plain work.



Enjoy the project.

I always recommend getting GREAT before pictures like my friend and 2-time student to my Detailing Boot Camp Class (http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-boot-camp.html) did when he restored the paint on this old Dodge....


1971 Dodge Coronet Original Paint Extreme Makeover with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/62605-1971-dodge-coronet-original-paint-extreme-makeover-meguiar-s-7-show-car-glaze.html)

He used a ladder to get these shots.... see how POWERFUL they are? Worth the time in my opinion....


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/1971_Dodge_Single_Stage_009.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/1971_Dodge_Single_Stage_011.jpg



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/1971_Dodge_Single_Stage_010.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/1971_Dodge_Single_Stage_011.jpg


Here's Greg learning how to use the Flex 3401 with a 4" backing plate and a 5" Hybrid pad on a 1940 Ford Coupe Hotrod.


Here's Craig learning the way of the Flex 3401 on a 1940 Ford Coupe...

Pictures & Comments from September 2012 Detailing Boot Camp (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-saturday-detailing-101/55860-pictures-comments-september-2012-detailing-boot-camp.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1568/1940Ford030.jpg



For what it's worth... my detailing boot camp classes (http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-boot-camp.html) are almost all hands-on for three days in a row.

Get signed up for a class, you'll learn more in three days than you will in a lifetime of trial and error. I guarantee it.


Hope the above helps....

I'm already looking forward to your before and after pictures...


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Read this too....


The power in the after shots is created in the before shots (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/21216-power-after-shots-created-before-shots.html)


:Picture:

[trashmanssd]

I did what Mike said on few my work trucks Single stage red paint. Wow does it work, only one truck I have had trouble with on the fiberglass hood paint is just so dry. I have feed it #7 2 times now still looks dry, I will keep trying feeding the paint #7 is cheap and alternative is a 3000$ repaint.

[tuscarora dave]

I did what Mike said on few my work trucks Single stage red paint. Wow does it work, only one truck I have had trouble with on the fiberglass hood paint is just so dry. I have feed it #7 2 times now still looks dry, I will keep trying feeding the paint #7 is cheap and alternative is a 3000$ repaint.

Is that fiberglass hood actually painted or is it gel coat? Using a white cloth with some polish on it, do you get color transfer on to the cloth when rubbing it out vigorously? If it's gel coat you won't get any color transfer, and #7 will do very little to nothing to remove the dry oxidation. It'll have to be abraded off before breaking out the heavy compound on it to bring the gloss back.

[trekkeruss]

What year?

We've had one 1963 Ford Galaxie 500 LX here for our Detailing boot Camp Class, this was the car we used to teach how to use the Rupes Bigfoot Paint Polishing System.

Detailing Classes - 1963 Ford Galaxie 500 XL (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/71036-detailing-classes-1963-ford-galaxie-500-xl.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2076/1963_Galaxie_001.jpg


Here's after machine polishing...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub004.jpg



I had to do a double take. How did a convertible become a hardtop?! Then I read, "I had another 1963 Galaxy here with a modern basecoat/clearcoat finish in dire need of polishing."

You almost got me. :p

[trashmanssd]

Is that fiberglass hood actually painted or is it gel coat? Using a white cloth with some polish on it, do you get color transfer on to the cloth when rubbing it out vigorously? If it's gel coat you won't get any color transfer, and #7 will do very little to nothing to remove the dry oxidation. It'll have to be abraded off before breaking out the heavy compound on it to bring the gloss back.

Its painted but the are Mack trucks and the heat from the sun all day and the engine all day just seem to dry out the hood paint 4-5 times faster than on the metal cab. I dont know if the fiberglass allows it to dry/oxidize from the bottom of the paint as well as the top or if its just all that heat but the hoods go fast if they are not protected every 3-4 months with sealant or wax.

[tuscarora dave]

Its painted but the are Mack trucks and the heat from the sun all day and the engine all day just seem to dry out the hood paint 4-5 times faster than on the metal cab. I dont know if the fiberglass allows it to dry/oxidize from the bottom of the paint as well as the top or if its just all that heat but the hoods go fast if they are not protected every 3-4 months with sealant or wax.

Interesting. Are you applying it heavy like this and letting it soak in overnight?

http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd323/tuscaroradave/001-31_zps160ab9f8.jpg (http://s528.photobucket.com/user/tuscaroradave/media/001-31_zps160ab9f8.jpg.html)

[trashmanssd]

Yeah Exactly like that. 2 nights in a row while it was in our shop for repairs. Covered it first day next day wiped that off and reapplied fresh coat and wiped that off the following day. It looked a lot better but I was starting at a 1 or 2 on scale to ten and after the 2 days it was probably a 4 or 5 better but still looks very faded out. Doesn't have that chalky film any more. I want try feeding the paint few more times before I try polishing it with a machine.
I enjoy the challenge of it and trying to save the money although its less about the money to paint it. The business can afford that its losing the truck for 2-3 weeks to a paint shop to get it done that's harder because it runs every day.
My other challenge is our ramp truck. We had to get a new hood for it and had it painted now that compared to the cab wow does cab look bad. Its not as bad as the other hood and its metal and vertical panels which I find usually have a lot less deep oxidation.
I will get some pictures and make a post when I start them again in few weeks. Winter has finally decide to get the F out of here. Snow is melting so in a few weeks and it should be warm enough and starting to dry out that I am willing to spend free time playing in the shop.

[tuscarora dave]

Nice!! I've noticed that when the paint has taken all the essential oils that it is going to take, the clean up of product the following day will be more oily than when you removed the product the first time. If upon the clean up of your third "feeding", the remaining product that you're cleaning off of the paint is all oily then the paint has taken as much of the oils as it can handle. There's no harm in letting these oils sit and work at the old paint for weeks until you're good and ready to tackle the challenge of abrading off the oxidation. I believe the longer you wait (to a degree) the more healthy and polishable the paint will be.

I'd love to see photos of your trucks. Reminds me of my younger days when I washed buses for a local company called F&S Transportation. They also owned a company called Fetrow Refuse, and I had the honors of washing the garbage trucks, inside the box and also the outside.

We used to call the brown juice that would leak out of the box "Chocolate Milk". That stuff would burn your skin if you got it on you while washing the trucks. Garbage juice I suppose is pretty acidic.

[shiners/buck]

Ford galaxy 500

So I'm finished with the 500 to dark for good pics.

Some after polish and correction

33748

33749

Those are before and now

33750

33751


One after wax

33752


:D

[Mike Phillips]

Looks fabulous!


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