DA Polisher/Product Help Request

[irish charm]

Hey All,

My name is Alan and I’m new to the forum. I have been detailing cars for quite some time in a non-professional capacity but did so without the use of power equipment. I am very partial to MEGS products as that is the only product I have used on all of my past and current cars, but I’m open to whatever yields great results! That being said, with my refund, I’m planning to buy my first DA system and after reading quite a few of Mike Philips master threads about detailing, still had a few questions. My main issue is how to identify what are the proper products to use are for my specific situations since everything I order will be through AutoGeek, not in store. I have a grasp on SMAT and DAT as well as how to use the least aggressive products first, but I felt posting these specific issues would help me tailor down what to buy from AutoGeek! I think I’m leaning to the PC or GG 6” DA system but no idea on pads and solutions.



Here is a link to the pictures: https://flic.kr/ps/2okkKB

1. In looking at the pictures from my fiancée’s red 2010 Corolla S, which products/pads would best correct the cob web looking issues? Her car has seen 80k miles and plenty of automatic car washes/snow scraping marks.
2. I just bought a brand new white, 2015 Impreza in 01/2015 and want to put a sealant/wax on it. The car has only been washed a handful of times, by myself, by hand and never clayed since it only has 3k miles on it. Ideas on products/pads?
3. I noted that standard 6.5” pads are for SUVs and larger cars, would the 5.5” pads be better for my application?
4. Thoughts on PC vs. GG DA systems for my specific applications? It appears AutoGeek only has a $10 difference between the two.

Side notes: Overall cost is of great concern as I need to balance that in my decision making. Also, I only plan on correcting the paint issue on the Corolla and maybe 2-3 other family member’s cars (with similar issues).

I greatly look forward to any responses.

[North26]

Both are similar, I have a PC like most here do. I don't really recommend it all that much because of the power issue. I have used the Griots it, will get you where you want to be only faster. So my vote goes to Griots.

I prefer a 5.5 pads, offers more control and precision.

So if I were you just starting out I would purchase 3 orange foam pads, 3 white foam pads, and maybe 2 black. I usually never go lower than a soft polish pad, because I prefer applying sealants with an applicator and waxes by hand, literally.

As for products, if you have to use a compound I suggest Megs UC, easy to use. For polish, which you will need, go with like M83.

[conman1395]

I have both the Porter Cable and GG DA. HUGE upgrade to the GG. I had the PC for two years and a couple weeks ago I bought a GG on sale (got it for $94). I should have got the GG. However if you aren't willing to spend the money for the GG, then you should go get a Harbor Freight DA. It has more power than the PC. I returned mine once I found the GG on sale.
Oh and please pay for the HD model no matter what you buy for the longer cord. I really wish I had on mine every time I do a correction.

[cardaddy]

Get the GG6 and at least a DOZEN 5½" pads. Being as cost is an issue, not only do the smaller pads allow you to work smaller, more curved areas, but they are CHEAPER too. :D

Get 4 orange, 4 white, 2 black, 2 blue and work from there. You may need more black and blue ones later but that's a start. It's a fact that you can use the white pads on more paint, with more products (both compounds and polishes) and they'll likely be your most used pads. Not a bad idea to get 6 of them actually.

With the GG6 on sale it's a no brainer. Advance Auto Parts has it online and if you search around you can find a 30% off coupon that they'll let you use. ;) (They WILL NOT let you use any discount on the 3" GG buffer though for some reason.) :dunno:

If you want a bare basic SMAT collection, I'd say D300, M205, UC and UP (might think about D302 for a extra fine cut polish) . That's going to get most anything done. If you really want to step it up for maximum cut you can get a bottle of M101, just STAY AWAY from M105 as it's not very user friendly, (especially new users).

You also mentioned you're thinking about microfiber pads/microfiber system. In that case, you need to get the Meguiar's Microfiber Correction System (in the 5½" size). It has a backing plate, 2 cutting pads, 2 finishing pads, a bottle of D300, a bottle of D301, and (as a freebie) a Meguiar's detailing apron.

There are two things you need.
One is to have plenty of pads, AT LEAST 4 if not 6 cutting pads of whichever color you find you need.
The other is to have plenty of microfiber towels.

Microfiber Tech has some very nice 360 GSM as well as 530 GSM towels for half what you'll pay for the same towel from a 'detailing' website. I'd say order 20~ 30 of at least the 360's and at least 10 of the 530's.

When you're compounding you can use 10~12 while wiping down the compound, then use 8~10 wiping polish, and finally... when you're doing your LSP, you'll have another 8~10 to use there as well. Using 5~6 towels can EASILYend up causing trouble when using them too long, too dirty, and on more than one type of product after you've spent a day or two buffing. Plus... it REALLY helps to have a decent wash load once you have finished a job.

[Don M]

You have been given some good advice, but no one has mentioned the paint on your fiance’s car. It really doesn't look that bad compared to many others that I have seen.

I would definitely start out with a lighter polish (M205/Ult Polish) and a polishing pad to see what results you get ... ALWAYS do a test spot and start with the LEAST aggressive method. It may turn out that a good polishing is all the car needs, not a compounding.

Good luck and have fun.

[irish charm]

Thanks everyone. The entire Corolla looks like it has a large cobweb, with smaller cobwebs inside the larger, for her car. I didn't know if compounding was necessary or just a swirlX product, I think. I'm having an issue deciding what pad and product combo to use as I really can't tell how to "read the paint". I just didnt want to buy products and start the project only to have to order more from autogeek and wait for shipping.

In regard to the Subaru, I put a light coat of megs liquid wax on a few weeks ago and though I dont think it's very much still on there, how would I safely remove it to apply a sealant and wax? Since I just purchased the car, I don't want to use anything heavy on the car, just literally apply a sealant and wax.

[Don M]

Thanks everyone. The entire Corolla looks like it has a large cobweb, with smaller cobwebs inside the larger, for her car. I didn't know if compounding was necessary or just a swirlX product, I think. I'm having an issue deciding what pad and product combo to use as I really can't tell how to "read the paint". I just didnt want to buy products and start the project only to have to order more from autogeek and wait for shipping.

In regard to the Subaru, I put a light coat of megs liquid wax on a few weeks ago and though I dont think it's very much still on there, how would I safely remove it to apply a sealant and wax? Since I just purchased the car, I don't want to use anything heavy on the car, just literally apply a sealant and wax.


How about we help you with the Corolla before we start schooling you on 'brand new car' detailing? :laughing:

Others could probably tell you 'how many of each pad' better than I can, but you should get some cutting and polishing pads (finishing/waxing pads are optional if you like applying waxes by hand) as well as a compound and polish just in case you need to go more aggressive than a polish. And don't forget the clay. Claying is an important step because it removes dirt and contaminants you can't see and will not come off with a wash. There are a ton of posts on claying (it's really easy to do) and others may chime in about it. This can be a very addictive hobby as you will find out as you go along

[irish charm]

I have indeed seen the wonders of clay; well worth the time.

I intend on applying waxes and sealants via da polisher.

[irish charm]

Also, how does one change the plates on the GG? I see that the PC is almost a bit like a drill.

[cardaddy]

Also, how does one change the plates on the GG? I see that the PC is almost a bit like a drill.

There's a wrench that comes with it, sljps between the head and the back of the backing plate. It also has a spare pair of brushes for the motor, (the ONLY ONE I know of that sends extra brushes).;)

This is where its very very handy to have a backing plate for your 6.5", another for the 5.5" pads, and one for your 4" pads.

The pad and product combo is just one of those things that you will find (which works best) when you start doing your test spots. This is the reason that you absolutely need as many pads as possible! Honestly, I would get 6 orange, 6 white, 3 blue, 3 black, and 2 or 3 red.

Those pads will work with any combination of compound and/or polish whether that be SMAT or DAT. (Meguiar's or Menzerna.) Although, Meguiars does have a few DAT based products... but most of their stuff these days is SMAT.

The main difference between the two technologies is that SMAT tends to cut faster (if not harder) with FAR fewer section passes required to do so. Which is a catch 22 to some degree, because with the abrasives not breaking down they actually can get larger (the longer you work them) and if you try to work it too long you can end up micro marring VERY easily. (Because the abraded paint and spent product etc build up and you end up with larger particles doing the cutting in pass six than you had on pass one.)
Whereas if you were using a DAT based product the abrasive are continuously breaking down and working towards a finer finish with each pass as the cut becomes less and less.

[Mike Phillips]

Read through this thread...

Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/49489-video-mark-your-backing-plate-make-easy-see-pad-rotation.html)


Lots of info that you need.


:xyxthumbs:

[Jaretr1]

Everyone seems to bash the PC because they think it doesnt have enough power. AG sells 3 times as many PC's than GG and gets a fraction of the returns on the PC. I have a PC and I have never had an issue with it not having enough power.

With that said, many have said the GG vibrates even more than the PC, not sure never tried the GG. The new Meguairs MT300 is a nice tool. If I was just starting out, I would start with that tool. Its the best compromise of smoothness, weight, performance and price.

As far as products...the Meguiars pads are supposed to be great. Keep an open mind on compounds and polishes, there are so many good ones.

And note, you might only plan on using the tool a few times, but the reality will be, once you have it, you will end up using it a lot more often than you ever thought.

[dlc95]

Everyone seems to bash the PC because they think it doesnt have enough power. AG sells 3 times as many PC's than GG and gets a fraction of the returns on the PC. I have a PC and I have never had an issue with it not having enough power.

With that said, many have said the GG vibrates even more than the PC, not sure never tried the GG. The new Meguairs MT300 is a nice tool. If I was just starting out, I would start with that tool. Its the best compromise of smoothness, weight, performance and price.

As far as products...the Meguiars pads are supposed to be great. Keep an open mind on compounds and polishes, there are so many good ones.

And note, you might only plan on using the tool a few times, but the reality will be, once you have it, you will end up using it a lot more often than you ever thought.

I love the PC. If I ever need more out of it I get the stiffest backing plate, and a stiff foam, or a microfiber pad, and get to work. That thing is my best friend.

[conman1395]

Everyone seems to bash the PC because they think it doesnt have enough power. AG sells 3 times as many PC's than GG and gets a fraction of the returns on the PC. I have a PC and I have never had an issue with it not having enough power.

With that said, many have said the GG vibrates even more than the PC, not sure never tried the GG. The new Meguairs MT300 is a nice tool. If I was just starting out, I would start with that tool. Its the best compromise of smoothness, weight, performance and price.

As far as products...the Meguiars pads are supposed to be great. Keep an open mind on compounds and polishes, there are so many good ones.

And note, you might only plan on using the tool a few times, but the reality will be, once you have it, you will end up using it a lot more often than you ever thought.
I loved my PC. I still believe it can do everything the others can for paint. Especially with the right pads.
I don't find the GG to vibrant more. It's the same as the PC if not just slightly better. The GG6 has the power to do glass polishing more quickly, it also has better low end torque; this allows the pad to keep rotating at lower speeds where it would otherwise stall on the PC.
I'm glad I have both now. The GG6 has a lifetime warranty so if it breaks I'll send it in to get fixed and still be able to keep using the PC.

[ski2]

AG sells 3 times as many PC's than GG and gets a fraction of the returns on the PC.

Do you know this for a fact?? Have you seen the actual sales vs returns numbers???

I don't think you can beat the GG6 for someone just taking care of their own cars. Power Issues asside say you have it for 3 years and use it 5-10 times a year (if that) and it does break. With a GG6 you send it back to Griots and get a new polisher. If you had a PC in the same situation it would cost you about $80 at a minimum to have it repaired.