dealer hurt my black paint

[Mike conowingo]

So I got my new black truck from dealer. They put on zurich shield free from dealer. He stated they had to clay bar truck. Looking at the truck and scratched on both rear corner panels also sealed in something in rear passenger doors, feels like tiny bumps on my fingers. I am not sure if it is from sap or something in clear coat.
The pinstripes are peeling with fiders under and stuck to pinstripe tape. I guess from there buffer. And some pretty good scratches on driver door they look deep..

I do not want to take back to them to tare up more. Any recommendations?

I've looked in to maguiers black wax and BLACKFIRE BlackICE Hybrid Montan Sealant. I currently own meguiars mirror glaze yellow wax 26, new car glaze 5, ultimate compound , mothers California gold showtime spray and wizards mist and shine. The dealer also gave me a zurich shield box of stuff with paint sealent and car wash concentrate..

Thanks for any and all help

Mike

[parttimer]

Take it back if you just got it. If the pin stripe is coming off now, what is it going to look like in 6 months or a year!? Tell them it needs fixed. if you try and fix it yourself and jack it up, its on you, they will say it was you all along.

[vobro]

Wax will not fix your issues, compound will most likely remove the Zurich Shield (whatever that is) and your pinstripe is messed up. Why not take it back if your unsatified? Have you looked at the truck in direct sunlight?

[Mike Phillips]

This is what I've been calling a Dealership Horror Story all my online life.

I've helped people to take back brand new cars and either get their money back or get a different new car that the dealership hasn't hacked up.

Just depends on what you want to do.

Considering the factory clear coat paint on your brand new truck is thinner than a post it note.

AND to remove swirls and scratches THEY put in YOU or someone has to REMOVE perfectly good paint to level the surface and thus remove the defects meaning the thin paint you just bought will now be even THINNER.

I consider this a personal property crime.

Do you know what a brand new quality paint job costs? Even if a car needs ZERO body work?

$3000.00 for an average size passenger car and that price goes up as the size of the vehicle goes up.


Here's an article I wrote just to help people grasp how thin the factory paint is on their brand new car, truck or suv.



:nomore:

[Mike Phillips]

Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/87410-clearcoats-thin-mike-phillips.html)


The majority of cars being manufactured today and starting since the 1980's use what's called a basecoat/clearcoat paint system. With this system, a clear layer of paint is sprayed over the top of the basecoat which is also the color coat or the layer of paint that has pigment in it. If the car has a metallic finish then the metallic flakes are also in the basecoat.

The basecoat doesn't offer any gloss or shine and in fact it's dull or matte looking after it's sprayed. The basecoat gets it's gloss, shine, depth and reflectivity by the spraying of the clearcoat layer of paint over the top of it. This is why if a person removes too much clearcoat when buffing and they expose the basecoat it will appear to be a dull round or oval spot on a body panel. The part of the paint system that adds beauty has been removed revealing the dull or matte basecoat layer of paint.



Just how thin is the clear layer of paint on a factory paint job?

The factory clearcoat on a new or modern car measures approximately 2 mils thin.

The average post-it not is around 3 mils thin.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=68387


What does this mean?

This means the factory clearcoat on a new or modern car is thinner than a post-it note.

The next time you have a post-it note in front of you, feel a single post-it note between your fingers. Like this...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=68388



This experience will drive home the point as to just how thin the clear layer of paint is on modern car with a factory paint job.

It should also drive home the importance of using the least aggressive pad, product and even tools to get the job done.

When I say, get the job done, the context of this usually means someone is buffing out a car to remove paint defects like swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation to make the paint and thus the car look better.

By using the least aggressive products you "get the job done" while leaving the most paint on the car to it will last over the mechanical service life of the car.

If you're working on your own cars and you're reading this you're already ahead of the game by reading the AGO forum and probably being a member so you can ask questions and get help.

If you're working on customer's cars take a professional approach as a service to your customers.


If you're reading this and you're going to do the work yourself or hire a detailer then do some research and make sure you hire a detailer that knows this type of stuff because the factory clearcoat on your car is thin.


:)

[Desertnate]

Wax will not fix your issues, compound will most likely remove the Zurich Shield (whatever that is) and your pinstripe is messed up. Why not take it back if your unsatified? Have you looked at the truck in direct sunlight?

Agree. Wax isn't the cure.

It will take at least a polish to get the coating off so you can get rid of the sap. The scratches will be a different issue based on their depth.

From a product standpoint the Ultimate Compound is a start, but you may not need something that harsh. Ultimate Polish is less aggressive and a good starting point. On ab black vehicle, if you use the compound you'll most likely need to follow up with the polish anyway to get the best shine.

This situation is one I hate getting into with anything dealership/warranty related. The dealership should be held accountable and make their work right...yet you know they won't and there is a possibility of the problem getting worse if they try again.

[mswerb]

Take it back ASAP. The longer you wait the more leverage they have to NOT help you. If you wait they will give you some line that YOU are responsible for any damage and charge you out the a$$ for it.

[Ebg18t]

Get it inspected by a pro detailer (get a quote) then go back to the dealership and demand some help.

[Mike conowingo]

I did get a hold of the dealer today and he said to bring it in and they will take care of it. Now the pinstripe I believe they can handle.

The scratches I worry they will only make worse. Some are very light and one is pretty bad.

I did look at the truck in direct sunlight, that's how I notice the scratches. Then started looking more carefully and noticed the pinstripe peeling and all these fibers stuck to pinstripe and pulled edges.

Thank you everyone for advice and info.

Mike

[builthatch]

I did get a hold of the dealer today and he said to bring it in and they will take care of it. Now the pinstripe I believe they can handle.

The scratches I worry they will only make worse. Some are very light and one is pretty bad.

I did look at the truck in direct sunlight, that's how I notice the scratches. Then started looking more carefully and noticed the pinstripe peeling and all these fibers stuck to pinstripe and pulled edges.

Thank you everyone for advice and info.

Mike

i've never let them do the work to remove the paint damage...noooo way. i'd find a very reputable pro and get an estimate and then take that to them. you can escalate it if need be if they give you too much grief - i believe you'll be able to get something done to your liking in some capacity, but yeah - srsly, think hard before letting them try to correct the paint issues.

[Mike Phillips]

I did get a hold of the dealer today and he said to bring it in and they will take care of it. Now the pinstripe I believe they can handle.



Good luck Mike and let us know how things turn out.

Take a look at this too... sorry to say, dealerships just don't have a good reputation for having trained staff that actually know how to correctly detail cars. Including washing and machine polishing. That's why there's so many horror stories on forums like this documenting the experiences people have dealing with dealerships.

2014 BMW 535i - Removing Dealership Holograms, Swirls and Scratches (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/81125-2014-bmw-535i-removing-dealership-holograms-swirls-scratches.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=77001



What's sad is it's so EASY to do all this type of work the right way the first time, all it takes is a little knowledge.


:xyxthumbs:

[trashmanssd]

My reaction if the dealership even washes my car.

http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view6/20131206/4915653/spock-yells-khan-o.gif

[originalgoods13]

I had the same experience even when I told them not to wash the car. They offered to detail and I agreed only to find out they left buffer trails and hologram using the 3M process with a rotary

2014 x5 with 6,000 miles only and had to spend 12 hours detailing

[Mike Phillips]

I had the same experience even when I told them not to wash the car.




It's kind of a knee-jerk reaction people that work at dealerships have. You can drive in a perfectly detailed vehicle that IF anyone there took just a nano second to look at carefully they could tell the car was perfectly clean, waxed and detailed, but they don't... they just wash it.





They offered to detail and I agreed only to find out they left buffer trails and hologram using the 3M process with a rotary.



Yep... that's what dealerships do. I've rarely come across a dealerships in my entire life in this industry where they have trained staff, the right tools, pads and products, and the work is done properly. The norm for the industry is just the opposite.

I teach absolute newbies to machine polishing how to create a show car finish the first time they lay hands on a buffer so I'm confident it's possible to get quality work done at a dealership the problem lies with the people running the business, not the guys in the shop.





2014 BMW x5 with 6,000 miles only and had to spend 12 hours detailing



And that sound about right. You investing 12 hours of hard work to undo the damage caused in about 2-3 hours of hack work at a dealership.


My writing style is always typing for the future, here's an example...

For everyone reading this into the future, if you have a nice car that you take to a dealership for ANY type of work, please click the link below and read my article....

DON'T WASH CAR !!!!!!!!!!! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/66855-don-t-wash-car.html)



:)