Polishing after repaint questions

[tonysteve]

I just repainted my trailblazer SS. My dad owns a body shop so he did all the leg work mostly. He uses all PPG paint. It has already been wet sanded (1500,3000, & 4000 grit) and buffed with a rotary wool pad followed by a foam pad using 3m compound and polish. I have my PC and flex I'm going to hit it with hopefully next week. My questions are: since the vehicle is black and new paint should I wait for it to out gas longer before polishing? Also I have 105,205 combo, some menz fg400 and f4000, and some of the adams polishes stuff. Would those be body shop safe for new paint? I would assume so.

I asked my dad and he asked why I need to polish after he cut and buffed it once already. He does fantastic work but is old school and is a collision body shop not necessarily a custom or detail shop so cut buff and glaze is his go to. I do not see any holograms so far but still some haze and light swirling since he washed it after buffing with his dirty wash mitts and old old shammy towels.

I do not plan on sealing or waxing the truck for at least another 60 days. It's going to be a long 60 days.


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[Mike Phillips]

My questions are: since the vehicle is black and new paint should I wait for it to out gas longer before polishing?



No need to wait as long as you're using body shop safe products.

Think about it... it's already been compounded and polished at the shop and this didn't hurt the fresh paint?

It's a good practice to use body shop safe product on fresh paint for the first 30 day. Then after the 30 day window of time go ahead and seal the paint.

Before this 30 day window of time you're perfectly safe to machine or hand apply body shop safe products.





Also I have 105,205 combo, some menz fg400 and f4000, and some of the adams polishes stuff.

Would those be body shop safe for new paint? I would assume so.



I don't know about the Adams products but the Meguiar's and Menzerna products are body shop products and therefor body shop safe.

If it were mine I would test out the Menzerna SF4000 as this is a fine cut polish and might be all you need to perfect the paint.

If the paint has deeper sanding marks or swirls left by the first sanding, compounding and polishing work then use the FG400 followed by the SF4000





I asked my dad and he asked why I need to polish after he cut and buffed it once already.

He does fantastic work but is old school and is a collision body shop not necessarily a custom or detail shop so cut buff and glaze is his go to.

I do not see any holograms so far but still some haze and light swirling since he washed it after buffing with his dirty wash mitts and old old shammy towels.



I'm sure he does great work but re-polishing using Menzerna products with foam pads on dual action polishers is a surefire recipe for success.





I do not plan on sealing or waxing the truck for at least another 60 days. It's going to be a long 60 days.



The excitement of a brand new paint job is like opening presents on Christmas day!

I posted the below for another forum member with fresh paint, check it out.




You're in luck. Meguiar's recently introduced the perfect product for you needs.


On Autogeek

Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-m305-ultra-finishing-durable-glaze.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=91794



Body shop safe glaze with wax protection? Only from Meguiars!

Meguiars 305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze is the first step in creating a brilliant, high gloss shine after wet-sanding, cutting, and buffing a new paint job. Formulated using a complex blend of oils, super fine abrasives and durable wax protection, Meguiars 305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze increases gloss and adds protection to fresh paint jobs. Meguiars 305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze is breathable and paintable, and its silicone-free formula makes it body-shop safe.

Body shops typically use a glaze after compounding and polishing a new paint job to really make the paint POP, so when the customer picks up the vehicle, they’re blown away by their investment to get their vehicle repainted (or repaired). The only issue with a glaze is they don’t offer any wax protection, until now!

Meguiars M305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze is the only body-shop safe glaze formulated with real wax protection. This means your freshly painted car will not only leave the body shop looking great, but it will be protected as well!

Meguiars M305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze is breathable and paintable, and its silicone-free formula makes it body-shop safe. Use Meguiars M305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze by hand or machine.

Meguiars M305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze offers light paint correction when used with a polishing pad on a dual action or rotary polisher. Use Meguiars M305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze to remove light holograms and shallow swirl marks on a freshly painted vehicle.

You can also use Meguiars M305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze on cured finishes (think new car that you just purchased) to enhance gloss before you apply a dedicated wax or sealant.


There you go buddy!


:dblthumb2:

[tonysteve]

Thanks Mike. Answered pretty much exactly what I want to know. I have been thinking about that 305. Would it work as a prewax cleaner or glaze under your LSP as well or since the product contains wax would that not be a good idea?


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[Ebg18t]

It's intersting this came up. I just had my rear bumper redone and the bodyshop indicated I could wax it after a few days as the off-gassing from the paint is done in the first couple days after the paint is baked.

I pulled up Mikes older post and he suggested waiting 30 days which is what I always heard/read.

I called a local detailer I know and he told me the same as the body shop. After a couple days the paint is good to go.

I am so conflicted and confused about the paint off-gassing now. Has anyone confirmed any timeframes with PPG or one of the major auto paint companies?

[tonysteve]

I would assume it all has to do with the type of products used. My dad using a couple different types of clear at his shop depending on the product, location, heat, ect ect. Different shops may use different formulations. I would give it 30 days just to be safe. You have sealer, color coat, and clear coat needing to cure and its shrinking and what not in that time


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[Rommel]

I use M305 a lot with my #1 clients dealership and it works fantastic!!

[builthatch]

you can use Optimum Car Wax without having to wait. Optimum Hyper polish and compound are both body shop safe.

people sleep on the baking process too. that changes things dramatically in terms of curing and such.

[Mike Phillips]

Has anyone confirmed any timeframes with PPG or one of the major auto paint companies?




My article on this topic explains everyting you ever wanted to know about working on fresh paint in detail.

Everything including all the opinions on this topic your read in the blogoshere...


Don't wax your car for at least 30 days! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/26967-don-t-wax-your-car-least-30-days.html)


Wrote the above in 2010 and it's a re-write of an article I wrote in 2004 (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?3704-Paint-Needs-to-Breathe)


:)

[K1NGGREEN]

If he's already hit it with 3m compound and polish, you might as well follow his lead and finish the job right. Sounds like a quick ultra fine machine polish should solve whatever concerns u have. 3m may be old skool but it's been around this long for a reason. Not only are they still around but are still leading the pack. A league of their own as far as i'm concerned.your dad's a wise man, follow his lead

[Paul A.]

Just make sure you answer dear ole dad's question carefully! Something like "dad, thanks, you did an awesome job and i just want to jewel up that beautiful black paint".

[Buracho]

Awesome tips here as always! Quick question, Can I cut/polish fresh paint with Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate polish then strip it with dish soap or 10% IPA? I don't have access to any of the bodyshop safe products at the moment that is why I ask. Am I taking a risk?

[Crispy]

I recently painted some lower mouldings that run the length of the car. Since this was not the first time I did this I developed a template of h tryow finish up after painting to great shine. First step remove orange peel with 1500 grit wet sanding. Next Trizact 3000 grit on DA speed 5. Compound Optimum Hyper Compound orange pad speed 5. Next Optimum Hyper Polish on white pad DA 4. Final Meguiar's Ultimate Glaze 305 on Dk Gray pad DA speed 4. Let outgas for 3-4 weeks and reapply Glaze and Sealant. Works wonders on one of the most vulnerable paint on my 2001 Grand Prix.