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alteredzx
03-31-2015, 02:08 AM
I am going to be detailing my buddies car for him, a light blue Honda S2000. I am NOT a pro. I do this for fun. I just wanna make sure I am not missing a step or going to screw it up. lol! I dont think the car has ever been detailed before. Just a normal wash and wax. Its been in his garage for 6-7 years. I will describe everything I can the best I can.

I am here to learn and build on what I already know. So any tips, tricks etc... is greatly appreciated.

thank you!!

steps:
Wash and dry - Meguiars gold class shampoo
Iron X - body and wheels
Wash and dry
Clay bar - Meguiars clay bar kit
wash and dry
Meguairs ultimate compound using the Drill attachment DA - red pad
Meguairs ultimate polish using the drill attachment DA - yellow pad
Meguairs ultimate liquid wax - black pad

For the interior I have the following
Chemical Guys leather cleaner and conditioner
Chemical Guys nonsense apc
Chemical Guys lightening fast carpet cleaner using drill attachment - yellow scrub brush
Chemical Guys fabric cleaner

For the tires I have
Chemical Guys tire and trim gel

For the engine
I have a McCulloch MC-1275 steam cleaner
Chemical Guys black on black


This is not his car. Just using it as a reference.
http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i324/alteredzx/Blue_S2000_700px_zpsapbpg4ob.jpg (http://s1088.photobucket.com/user/alteredzx/media/Blue_S2000_700px_zpsapbpg4ob.jpg.html)

trekkeruss
03-31-2015, 02:32 AM
I personally do not wash and dry after claying. Many times I wash, rinse, and use car wash soap as a lube. Then I rinse again, dry and then polish.

The one step you're missing is doing a test spot. You may not need to use compound; maybe the paint only needs polish. A test spot will tell you that.

alteredzx
03-31-2015, 03:16 AM
ah yes. the test spot. I will add that to my list. Thank you for the heads up on that.

so I could take out the wash after using the clay bar. copy that.

Mike Phillips
03-31-2015, 07:21 AM
Meguiar's ultimate compound using the Drill attachment DA - red pad
Meguiar's ultimate polish using the drill attachment DA - yellow pad
Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax - black pad



That looks right, like trekkeruss pointed out might want to start out by doing some testing with the maroon foam cutting pad and the Ultimate Compound, make sure you're getting the results you're looking for in one small area before buffing out the entire car.



How To Do a Test Spot (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html)


:dblthumb2:

alteredzx
03-31-2015, 07:32 AM
I really need to get me a DA.

thanks fellers for getting back with me. I will try some before and after photos....if it looks good. haha!

mwoolfso
03-31-2015, 07:39 AM
This looks like a good foundation. Aside from a suggestion to detail the interior and engine before you work on the paint, here are some optimizations for you to save some time:

steps:
Wash and dry - Meguiars gold class shampoo
Iron X - body and wheels Don't need to dry the vehicle completely. A partially wet surface is good for IronX
Wash and dry No need for this step.
Clay bar - Meguiars clay bar kit
wash and dry No need for this step.
Meguairs ultimate compound using the Drill attachment DA - red pad
Meguairs ultimate polish using the drill attachment DA - yellow pad
Meguairs ultimate liquid wax - black pad

Don M
03-31-2015, 07:46 AM
You might also consider using the Ultimate Liquid Wax by hand, it's extremely easy to apply and remove. I use the paste version by hand and it's a dream

alteredzx
03-31-2015, 10:24 AM
This looks like a good foundation. Aside from a suggestion to detail the interior and engine before you work on the paint, here are some optimizations for you to save some time:

steps:
Wash and dry - Meguiars gold class shampoo
Iron X - body and wheels Don't need to dry the vehicle completely. A partially wet surface is good for IronX
Wash and dry No need for this step.
Clay bar - Meguiars clay bar kit
wash and dry No need for this step.
Meguairs ultimate compound using the Drill attachment DA - red pad
Meguairs ultimate polish using the drill attachment DA - yellow pad
Meguairs ultimate liquid wax - black pad

perfect. this will work. doing this and adding a test spot, will be a good time.

so you suggest doing the interior and engine before the outside of the car?


You might also consider using the Ultimate Liquid Wax by hand, it's extremely easy to apply and remove. I use the paste version by hand and it's a dream

copy that. thank you sir!

Don M
03-31-2015, 10:36 AM
perfect. this will work. doing this and adding a test spot, will be a good time.

so you suggest doing the interior and engine before the outside of the car?



copy that. thank you sir!


Cleaning the engine will 99.99% of the time get cleaner and water splashed onto the fenders, windshield etc causing you to have to clean those areas AGAIN if they've already been detailed.

Doing the interior first you don't have to worry about dust from the vacuum getting all over the car, the vacuum hose rubbing against the painted surface of the car etc.

alteredzx
03-31-2015, 10:47 AM
dang. I never thought about all that. good call there!

Mike Phillips
03-31-2015, 11:50 AM
Cleaning the engine will 99.99% of the time get cleaner and water splashed onto the fenders, windshield etc causing you to have to clean those areas AGAIN if they've already been detailed.



Good catch. In my detailing boot camp classes I teach to do all the messy, wet steps first for just this reason,

For example,
Polish glass
Restore headlights
Engine detail

BEFORE washing the vehicle. This way you wash off any glass polishing residue around the window frames, wash off any headlight polishing residues and like you pointed out, wash and even polish away any splatter stains from the engine detail during the washing step.

It's actually a good idea to cover the fenders with a plastic drop cloth to protect the paint, this is especially true if you're using a real engine degreaser and extremely important if you're ever cleaning the engine compartment on a car with a single stage paint system.





Doing the interior first you don't have to worry about dust from the vacuum getting all over the car, the vacuum hose rubbing against the painted surface of the car etc.



Besides those great reasons, if you're going to do any kind of wet work on the interior it's best to knock it out first so the interior will have plenty of drying time while you detail the other areas of the car. An air mover helps greatly.



Shop-Vac Professional Air Mover (http://www.autogeek.net/shop-vac-air-mover.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=78259

:)