Headlight restoration methods

[kundanp333]

Hi All,

I am new to the forum. It is a great resource.

I have a couple of questions regarding headlight restoration. I want clarify some things regarding the 2 methods I am contemplating on using to restore my headlights on a Honda s2000 that has baked in the sun for almost 3 years.

Method 1: Wet Sand, polish, Clear Coat

600-800 grit wet sand
1200 - 1500 grit wet sand
2000-3000 grit wet sand
follow up with m105
follow up with m205
Clear coat

Method 2: Wet Sand, Polish, Substitute

600-800 grit wet sand
1200 - 1500 grit wet sand
2000-3000 grit wet sand
follow up with m105
follow up with m205
Substitute (Klasse AIO, Wax, ___??)

I think I would like to go with method 2 because i think it is less messy but let me know your thoughts.

I would like to know which method will be easier? most cost effective? provide most longevity?

Also, if anyone has results from these, I would love to see before, after, and current state (after 2 months, 6 months, etc.).

I hope I am not missing anything. Any insight would be much appreciated. Thank you.

[ihaveacamaro]

You usually don't need lower than 1500 unless your headlights are REALLY bad. 1500->3000->polish->coating (not a wax or sealant)

Most modern polishes can take out 3000 grit, no need to even compound

[KMdef9]

For longevity...

Clear coat > coating > sealant (don't waste your time with a traditional wax)

Are you using a machine to compound/polish? If not, you shouldn't skip the compound step. Save your arm.

[JimmyH5]

have done a lot of headlights with wet-sanding, polishing, clear-coating; usually wax after clear is good and dry. I just noticed at my local Advanced Auto that they have a 3M quick headlight kit that looks to have a solvent to remove the yellowing and a clear coat to finish... was like $6 online; might be a time saver...?

[Ebg18t]

I have been using the replaceable wet sanding pads from the Mequires Kit. Takes off just enough, but not super agressive. Instead of using their products I polish with Menzerna FG400 & medium pad, wipe with IPA and then coat with Opti-Lens. Opti-Lens has been holding up well.

Opti-Lens is probably about the longest lasting (& readily avaliable) coating designed for plastic lenses. Some are mixing up some paint shop based options. I just coated the console on my boat with Opti-Lens. Looks great now.

[KenG]

Hi All,

I am new to the forum. It is a great resource.

I have a couple of questions regarding headlight restoration. I want clarify some things regarding the 2 methods I am contemplating on using to restore my headlights on a Honda s2000 that has baked in the sun for almost 3 years.

Method 1: Wet Sand, polish, Clear Coat

600-800 grit wet sand
1200 - 1500 grit wet sand
2000-3000 grit wet sand
follow up with m105
follow up with m205
Clear coat

Method 2: Wet Sand, Polish, Substitute

600-800 grit wet sand
1200 - 1500 grit wet sand
2000-3000 grit wet sand
follow up with m105
follow up with m205
Substitute (Klasse AIO, Wax, ___??)

I think I would like to go with method 2 because i think it is less messy but let me know your thoughts.

I would like to know which method will be easier? most cost effective? provide most longevity?

Also, if anyone has results from these, I would love to see before, after, and current state (after 2 months, 6 months, etc.).

I hope I am not missing anything. Any insight would be much appreciated. Thank you.


I like your methods, very similar to mine. Sometimes, depending on how difficult it is to remove the over coat I've gone as low as 400 grit. What has helped tremendously is my purchase of Griot's Garage Professional Random Orbital 3 Inch Polisher. It uses the 3" sanding pads which you can get from Meguiar's or 3M. I also use M105 and M205 and finish with applying V-38 polish from Chemical Guys. I seal them with JetSeal also from Chemical Guys. After the sanding process with the 3" polisher I use my Porter Cable 7424xp to apply the polishing compounds. I hope this has been some help for you. Ken

[Don M]

I just watched a video (since it's from the internet I take it with a grain of salt) where the person wet sanded starting from 400 grit - finer grit, then used a "made for plastic" clear coat paint to seal the lights. I'll see if I can find it again and post it here.


How to fix you headlights permanently (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM)

Found it ... granted his wet sanding technique needs some work, but as a general "How To" if you just modify his methods to a more correct form, I can actually see this method having a chance of being legit.

[SameGuy]

If you're using a real clear coat product, you can skip polishing steps. After sanding Bondo, you don't compound and polish it before painting; same with headlamp lenses.

Now, if using something microscopically thin like Opti-Lens, that's different. It will not fill sanding marks and so must be used on an optically clear substrate.

There are several threads here discussing permanent headlamp restoration, worth a look. IMHO, nothing beats installing an actual clear coat after sanding off the damaged original clear coat.

[Ryche]

I recently did my wife's headlights (one was so bad the entire headlight looked like it had a cataract... surprised she could see out that side at all) - I just used the Megs heavy duty restoration kit:
Wet Sand 1000 Grit
Wet Sand 3000 Grit
Polish with their supplied Plastix Polish
Protect with their supplied protectant

Only thing you supply is a drill for the polish/buff step.

[kundanp333]

Thanks. I will go with the polish method and see how long that lasts. I already have those supplies so I will give it a try. If i feel that it is not permanent enough, I will give the clear coat method a try.

On a side note, how come using m105 with hand is not a good idea?

[Don M]

On a side note, how come using m105 with hand is not a good idea?


It's not so much a bad idea, it's just that you will never get the same results as you would by machine. I's more recommended to use the M105 by hand where a buffer won't reach.