Scratch Repair Questions

[AustrianOak82]

I use my GG and UC/105 to remove fine scratches on a regular basis. I am looking to do some more moderate/severe scratch removal in the future. I have been doing some reading on removing these via wet sanding and buffing. The steps all make sense but I have a couple of questions:

1. Once the wet sanding is complete, do I have to use a rotary or will mine suffice at high speed with some M105 and M205 (Or UC and UP)? (I have several pads)

2. I understand the clear coat is being removed in that area. When sanding is complete, is there no clear coat left in that area?

3. Assuming the clear coat is gone completely, I would need to add a wax/sealant over that specific area right?

4. What grits is everyone starting with? Looks like 800 and then up from there?

Thanks.

[Evan.J]

I use my GG and UC/105 to remove fine scratches on a regular basis. I am looking to do some more moderate/severe scratch removal in the future. I have been doing some reading on removing these via wet sanding and buffing. The steps all make sense but I have a couple of questions:

1. Once the wet sanding is complete, do I have to use a rotary or will mine suffice at high speed with some M105 and M205 (Or UC and UP)? (I have several pads)

2. I understand the clear coat is being removed in that area. When sanding is complete, is there no clear coat left in that area?

3. Assuming the clear coat is gone completely, I would need to add a wax/sealant over that specific area right?

4. What grits is everyone starting with? Looks like 800 and then up from there?

Thanks.

There is much more involve in wet sanding than you can shake a stick at. Going into wet sanding blind or have never attempting wet sanding can lead to troubles and fast.

When you are doing with wet sanding you are talking about sanding a removing precious layers of very thin clear coat very quickly. if you remove too much clear or all the clear then the only fix would be a repaint and that is something you NEVER want to do. a mistake like that could be very costly.

Wet sanding is an art that should be practiced on a hood from a junk yard and get good at it before you take the plunge on your vehicle or someone else's.

Here are some Great article on wet sanding
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/25915-dampsanding-tools-tips-techniques-mike-phillips.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/21471-wetsanding-fresh-paint-vs-factory-paint.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/21974-basic-hand-sanding-techniques.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/26285-meguiar-s-6-unigrit-sanding-finishing-discs.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/21471-wetsanding-fresh-paint-vs-factory-paint.html

[Paul A.]

I was very cautious and apprehensive just going from my PC to a rotary some years ago. I was even MORE cautious before i had the 'nads to even try wetsanding and even then...it was ONLY on my own cars. From my very limited experience i'll offer my perspective...

1. I have corrected severe scratches with my PC, a MF cutting disc and M105. That was on speed 6. I wouldn't say you NEED a rotary but my rotary works sooooo much better and faster.

2. You NEVER want to completely remove clearcoat, even when wetsanding! EVER. What you want to do is simply level the clear to remove or diminish the scratch.

3. See #2 above.

4. I have never used anything more abrasive than 1500 grit. And that is followed by 2000, then 3000. I used about 800 grit 1 time however that was on severely clouded headlights. I wouldn't go near my painted surfaces with that aggressive a grit unless i was maybe prepping for repaint.

I will yield to the more seasoned experts now.

(edit - while i was typing one of the experts beat me to it and offered good, solid advice. Thanks Evan).