Getting a GG6, need some advice on pads and polish

[DapperStyle]

After doing a lot of reading I am going to get a GG6 and want to make sure I am getting the right pads and polish for my particular car.

I have a 2014 C300 with Palladium silver metallic paint that is in great condition. I clayed it before the winter (but not polished) and sealed it with Black Fire Crystal Sealant. Overall very minor etchings, light scratches in some areas, and no discernible swirls. It has only seen a hand wash with great products purchased from Autogeek since I took it off the lot!

That being said this is my list:

5" LC bp
3.5" LC bp
Wolfgang pad werks (cleaner, conditioner, brush)
6 Pack of 4" LC Flat Pads (2 white, 2 black, 2 red)
2 5.5" LC White Flat Pads
2 5.5" LC Black Flat Pads
1 5.5" LC Hydrotech Crimson Red Pad
Menzerna PF4000

Is my list okay? Overkill? Missing anything?

I'd be starting with Menzerna 4000 on a black pad and do a test area to see if I need to step up to a white pad. For my purposes I don't believe I would end up needing any orange/tangerine pads.

Should PF4000 be okay for my purposes? I don't think I need any more cut but others swear by using Mezerna PF2500 first on a white pad then following up with PF4000 on a black pad.

My steps are going to be as follows:
Wash, Decon (iron x), clay, PF4000 on black (or if necessary white) pad, IPA wipedown or other pre wax cleanser, sealant then wax.

Thanks in advance for any input!

This is what she looked like in the shade before the winter hit, in the sunlight it was even better:
http://i.imgur.com/dHrSRFY.jpg

[ihaveacamaro]

MB usually have hard paint, you might need that orange pad. You said you only have light scratches so I think you'll be fine without a compound.

[DapperStyle]

MB usually have hard paint, you might need that orange pad. You said you only have light scratches so I think you'll be fine without a compound.

You think PF4000 on an Orange pad would be better? Do I follow up with PF4000 on a black pad right after or go straight to sealant?

The scratches a very minor and can only be seen from certain angles in the sunlight on the hood likely from when I was washing or claying. Just a faint line here and there no more than 4-6 inches long.

[ski2]

You'll need more than 2 pads of each color if you're going to do the entire car on the same day. Here's an article by Mike Phillips that may be of help--- http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/88109-how-many-pads-do-i-need-buff-out-my-car.html

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Your list looks fine for getting started however I would add more aggressive pads in case you may need them. If your preliminary test spot reveals you need more cut then you will have it on hand rather than having to wait for another order to arrive.

I would also add FG400 to that list. This way you will have another option of getting aggressive if you may need it.

Reason why I am saying this is that some German paint can be really tough. Especially if your Mercedes has the ceramiclear paint on it.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/47152-ceramiclear-paints-careful.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-university/82174-mercedes-benz-ceramiclear-paint.html

I would start a test spot with SF4000 on white.

[DapperStyle]

You'll need more than 2 pads of each color if you're going to do the entire car on the same day. Here's an article by Mike Phillips that may be of help--- http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/88109-how-many-pads-do-i-need-buff-out-my-car.html

Okay so I'll need 6 correction and 4 polishing. So that would mean 6 orange and 4 black or possibly 6 white and 4 black? Without doing a test spot I won't know if I'll need orange or white pads for correction but I have read about the MB hard paint. Do you think I should just go with the hydrotech tangerine pads which seem to be in the middle of orange and white LC Flat pads as far as cutting ability?

My goal would be to get the car done in a single day so more pads are not a problem and I'll be cleaning on the fly as well.

[DapperStyle]

Your list looks fine for getting started however I would add more aggressive pads in case you may need them. If your preliminary test spot reveals you need more cut then you will have it on hand rather than having to wait for another order to arrive.

I would also add FG400 to that list. This way you will have another option of getting aggressive if you may need it.

Reason why I am saying this is that some German paint can be really tough. Especially if your Mercedes has the ceramiclear paint on it.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/47152-ceramiclear-paints-careful.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-university/82174-mercedes-benz-ceramiclear-paint.html

I would start a test spot with SF4000 on white.

Mike thanks for the suggestion, I'll check my door tonight to see if I have ceramiclear. I had thought about FG400 in combination with FG4000 or even FG4500 but I didn't want to get something that would be too aggressive so I thought PF2500 would be sufficient. In your experience does FG400 play well with hard paint cars like mine? Would I use FG400 on a white pad if FG4000 on a white pad isn't giving me enough "correction"?

With my paint being a good condition and the lack of visible swirls I'm worried it is going to be hard for me to tell if I am getting the correction I need.

In essence I guess I just want glossy paint with great clarity and depth, with a swirled up car it seems easier to see where you are in the correction process and if what you are doing is working well or not. With a car without swirls or many scratches, how do you determine that?

Thanks again for any input you guys, I greatly appreciate you all as a community.

[Paul A.]

I'm with Mike in that you may want to have something more aggressive on hand than Menz 4000 in case you find you need it. I still have an old bottle of Menz 203 which i believe is the new labeled 2500. I grab that stuff quickly after a test section sometimes on paints that are just as you describe. Sometimes its a white pad and sometimes its an orange pad!

In my experience, Mercedes paints i've done have been on the hard side and for me needed to be "persuaded" into correction just a little more aggressively however DO NOT ASSUME that is correct with your paint. You have your paint right in front of you and are certainly best to determine which approach will give you what you are looking for. Tape off a small test area that is swirled/scratched and run your tests and then look carefully at your results.

[Angus]

The only thing I'd add to the excellent advice already given, is think about picking up a pad cleaner such as Detailer’s Pro Series Polishing Pad Rejuvenator. I use DP's and can honestly say it makes cleaning polish out of pads super easy and saves time by allowing you to rotate between pads a lot faster over a product like Dawn dish soap.

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Mike thanks for the suggestion, I'll check my door tonight to see if I have ceramiclear. I had thought about FG400 in combination with FG4000 or even FG4500 but I didn't want to get something that would be too aggressive so I thought PF2500 would be sufficient. In your experience does FG400 play well with hard paint cars like mine? Would I use FG400 on a white pad if FG4000 on a white pad isn't giving me enough "correction"?

With my paint being a good condition and the lack of visible swirls I'm worried it is going to be hard for me to tell if I am getting the correction I need.

In essence I guess I just want glossy paint with great clarity and depth, with a swirled up car it seems easier to see where you are in the correction process and if what you are doing is working well or not. With a car without swirls or many scratches, how do you determine that?

Thanks again for any input you guys, I greatly appreciate you all as a community.

Honestly at this point do not even bother with SF4500. For me, all I use this for is to jewel paint. My finishing up step after compounding is SF4000. This will provide enough cut to pull up any hazing or whatever FG400 could not finish off. It will also finish up wax ready.

On silver paint, most people would not be able to tell the difference between one that was finished with SF4000 and the other with SF4500. Now if you had black paint then its another story.

FG400 works well on just about anything. It loves German paint just as the rest of the Menzerna line up.

As mentioned before, a test spot of SF4000 on white should performed first. If that does not get you where you need to be my personal next step would be FG400 on a light cutting pad.


I'm with Mike in that you may want to have something more aggressive on hand than Menz 4000 in case you find you need it. I still have an old bottle of Menz 203 which i believe is the new labeled 2500. I grab that stuff quickly after a test section sometimes on paints that are just as you describe. Sometimes its a white pad and sometimes its an orange pad!

In my experience, Mercedes paints i've done have been on the hard side and for me needed to be "persuaded" into correction just a little more aggressively however DO NOT ASSUME that is correct with your paint. You have your paint right in front of you and are certainly best to determine which approach will give you what you are looking for. Tape off a small test area that is swirled/scratched and run your tests and then look carefully at your results.

Great advice good sir.


The only thing I'd add to the excellent advice already given, is think about picking up a pad cleaner such as Detailer’s Pro Series Polishing Pad Rejuvenator. I use DP's and can honestly say it makes cleaning polish out of pads super easy and saves time by allowing you to rotate between pads a lot faster over a product like Dawn dish soap.

There you go! This is much better than dawn dish soap for cleaning pads Dapper.

[DapperStyle]

I'm with Mike in that you may want to have something more aggressive on hand than Menz 4000 in case you find you need it. I still have an old bottle of Menz 203 which i believe is the new labeled 2500. I grab that stuff quickly after a test section sometimes on paints that are just as you describe. Sometimes its a white pad and sometimes its an orange pad!

In my experience, Mercedes paints i've done have been on the hard side and for me needed to be "persuaded" into correction just a little more aggressively however DO NOT ASSUME that is correct with your paint. You have your paint right in front of you and are certainly best to determine which approach will give you what you are looking for. Tape off a small test area that is swirled/scratched and run your tests and then look carefully at your results.

Thanks for the advice, I'll probably go either FG400 or PF2500. Not sure what level of correction I need but I will tape off an area and see what works best.


The only thing I'd add to the excellent advice already given, is think about picking up a pad cleaner such as Detailer’s Pro Series Polishing Pad Rejuvenator. I use DP's and can honestly say it makes cleaning polish out of pads super easy and saves time by allowing you to rotate between pads a lot faster over a product like Dawn dish soap.

Do you prefer DP over the cleaner included in the wolfgang pad werks kit? And from what I gather these sprays along with a brush allow you to clean pads as you work so that you can continue to use them? Or is it merely to clean them after the job to have them ready to use another day?


Honestly at this point do not even bother with SF4500. For me, all I use this for is to jewel paint. My finishing up step after compounding is SF4000. This will provide enough cut to pull up any hazing or whatever FG400 could not finish off. It will also finish up wax ready.

On silver paint, most people would not be able to tell the difference between one that was finished with SF4000 and the other with SF4500. Now if you had black paint then its another story.

FG400 works well on just about anything. It loves German paint just as the rest of the Menzerna line up.

As mentioned before, a test spot of SF4000 on white should performed first. If that does not get you where you need to be my personal next step would be FG400 on a light cutting pad.



Great advice good sir.



There you go! This is much better than dawn dish soap for cleaning pads Dapper.

Mike, I'll definitely be getting pad cleaner and conditioner to prime the pads, no dawn for me unless I am stripping a car down. Part of my confusion is I don't know where I am trying to get the paint to, without any swirls to work with it's tough for me to determine if what I am trying to do is working.

As suggested I will likely tape off a small area and see just what PF4000 on a white pad will do and if necessary step up to FG400 on a white pad then orange if I am not seeing any "improvement". With FG400 having more cut than PF2500, do I run any risk of marring or damaging my paint using a white or orange pad?

[Angus]

Do you prefer DP over the cleaner included in the wolfgang pad werks kit? And from what I gather these sprays along with a brush allow you to clean pads as you work so that you can continue to use them? Or is it merely to clean them after the job to have them ready to use another day?

Yes I do. I prefer using a cleaner like DP because it allows me to rotate through pads more efficiently then pausing to spraying/agitate/rinse a single pad. By using DP, I can rotate my pads as such:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=763&pictureid=4846

I'd also add, once per ounce a powered product like DP (or any of the other powered pad cleaner options) is cheaper vs using a spray in type product because a single ounce makes gallons of cleaner that can be kept in use all day long.

Don't get me wrong, Wolfgang's cleaner works very well at what it does. However I only like to use this approach as a pre-cleaner when heavy build up has occurred.

No matter what, get a pad conditioning brush. IMHO that is a must have for on the go residue control. :dblthumb2:



Mike, I'll definitely be getting pad cleaner and conditioner to prime the pads, no dawn for me unless I am stripping a car down. Part of my confusion is I don't know where I am trying to get the paint to, without any swirls to work with it's tough for me to determine if what I am trying to do is working.

As suggested I will likely tape off a small area and see just what PF4000 on a white pad will do and if necessary step up to FG400 on a white pad then orange if I am not seeing any "improvement". With FG400 having more cut than PF2500, do I run any risk of marring or damaging my paint using a white or orange pad?

FG400 and SF4000 are excellent products. I love them both. Just take your time - check your results often - and don't be afraid to ask more questions.

[willieg]

New to this - just curious. Also getting a GG6, wondering why going with smaller bp and pads than the 6" that comes with polisher.

[Angus]

New to this - just curious. Also getting a GG6, wondering why going with smaller bp and pads than the 6" that comes with polisher.

Lots of threads on why smaller bp + thinner pads w/ a GG6 = huge difference. Mike Phillips just answered the same basic question earlier this morning in this thread:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/89743-da-help-product-recommendations.html

I'm also a member of the "thin is in" crowd. And can honestly say dropping down to a 5 BP + 5.5 pads made a huge difference when using my GG" 6. :xyxthumbs:

[DapperStyle]

New to this - just curious. Also getting a GG6, wondering why going with smaller bp and pads than the 6" that comes with polisher.

Willie, as the person above mentioned it has been said around these forums that the 5.5" and smaller pads along with their respective backing plates do a much better job with the same amount of product. The 6.5" supposedly are still perfectly fine for waxing and sealing but as far as correction and polishing go, smaller is better.

Also with the curves that some cars have using a larger pad can be more of a hassle.


Yes I do. I prefer using a cleaner like DP because it allows me to rotate through pads more efficiently then pausing to spraying/agitate/rinse a single pad. By using DP, I can rotate my pads as such:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=763&pictureid=4846

I'd also add, once per ounce a powered product like DP (or any of the other powered pad cleaner options) is cheaper vs using a spray in type product because a single ounce makes gallons of cleaner that can be kept in use all day long.

Don't get me wrong, Wolfgang's cleaner works very well at what it does. However I only like to use this approach as a pre-cleaner when heavy build up has occurred.

No matter what, get a pad conditioning brush. IMHO that is a must have for on the go residue control. :dblthumb2:



FG400 and SF4000 are excellent products. I love them both. Just take your time - check your results often - and don't be afraid to ask more questions.

Angus thanks! I'll be sure to get some dedicated pad cleaner powder.