RV Gel Coat Oxidation: At Wits End...Any Suggestions

[Hermes1]

Rotary is the only tool for oxidized Gel Coat. That stuff is down right brutal. Everytime I have to do that RV I look 32' down the side and know it goes 8' across, 32' back up the other side and 8' across to where I started along with being close to 12' off the ground. Just thinking about it wears me out. I had to have at least 40 hrs the last time I did it. Then after the oxidation removal is complete it is two trips around, one with 601/501 then 601/111. It is better now being once a year with the latest routine. It use to be every three months or so. I have a few Edge wool pads, tried the green but it wasn't long before I moved to the black, between the black and the 3M ( Rocks in a Bottle ) it made the chore so much easier. I had to wear goggles with the 3M compound, it was like working in a sand storm.

Dave

Luckily for me the oxidation problem is only on the front cap, which represents a surface area in the neighborhood of 4x8'. The lower section is painted with a bed liner product to ward off damage from road debris.

[Paul A.]

I tackle almost every gelcoat approach with 100% woolpads and my rotary. That stuff is tough and responds well to a very aggressive approach, depending on condition. The GG RO, cranked all the way up and maybe some thin MF cutting pads and a good, stout compound might prove similar to a rotary approach. Then, maybe several section passes to get you some results.

[Hermes1]

Thank you Puckman. So this prompts another question. Considering gel coat is so tough and a rotary seems to be the best tool for the job, how much danger of damage would my inexperienced hands be in on gel coat with a rotary machine? Because of my lack of experience with rotary machines, I would not get within 10 feet of my cars with one, considering the less forgiving and more delicate clear coat, but with my TT and gel coat, is there room for me to learn? I am hoping the dealer/mfg will take care of it for me, but if not I will try using my Griot's Garage RO with the suggestions Tuscora Dave & others made, especially since it is not a large area to do. If those fail, I might then look at getting a rotary, although I would do so as a last resort as I do not see me using it a lot.

[davidc]

With a R O I doubt you could harm anything but decals if your running high speed. You may not even make any head way with the R O as it may not even spin on the oxidation. If you use a rotary keep it on low speed until you get a feel for it, with wool pads of course. Under no circumstances cross or get close to decals at high speed unless you want to remove them. I am sure your dealer can fix your problem for a nominal charge. There is this for Gel Coat, I do not have any experience with it but the editor of Trailer life had a write up saying he uses on his motor home.
Poliglow Products, Inc.| Manufacturer of Poli Glow, A New Concept in Boat Polish (http://www.poliglow-int.com/)

Dave

Dave

[Hoytman]

Should this thing really be oxidizing that bad being bought on March of 2014? I wouldn't think so, but then again...

Should you be using heavy compounds on it? See above.

I don't doubt Dave's comments or his experience, but I think he may understand what I'm getting at here and I know he won't take offense to my caution.

I can tell you from my own experience on a 1976 Boston Whaler that, after being told by the manufacture that I'd have to sand the gel-coat to get it to shine, your Buff Magic is more than capable, even with wool on a DA, of removing the type of oxidation that a 2014 model should have. BM pink is a quality product capable of removing many, many years of oxidation with wool and a rotary. It may take a while, in that case use BM white or another similar products, of which there are a few. I'm saying that BM should have fixed this already.


I'm wondering if something isn't going on with the gel-coat.

1. Be sure with the dealer that it IS, indeed, gel-coat.

2. Call and tell the dealer what's going on and ask them what they recommend using on it.

3. For gosh sake's don't tell them what you've already used on it. I've heard of a few instances where folks were told they used the wrong product, didn't ask what to use and got their warranty voided...though I'm almost certain the wool got pulled over their eyes.

Something about this being a 2014 model and already oxidizing to the point of needing wool, compounds and a rotary sends of a red flag in the air with me. Perhaps I need to reread the posts.

[Hermes1]

Should this thing really be oxidizing that bad being bought on March of 2014? I wouldn't think so, but then again...

Should you be using heavy compounds on it? See above.

I don't doubt Dave's comments or his experience, but I think he may understand what I'm getting at here and I know he won't take offense to my caution.

I can tell you from my own experience on a 1976 Boston Whaler that, after being told by the manufacture that I'd have to sand the gel-coat to get it to shine, your Buff Magic is more than capable, even with wool on a DA, of removing the type of oxidation that a 2014 model should have. BM pink is a quality product capable of removing many, many years of oxidation with wool and a rotary. It may take a while, in that case use BM white or another similar products, of which there are a few. I'm saying that BM should have fixed this already.


I'm wondering if something isn't going on with the gel-coat.

1. Be sure with the dealer that it IS, indeed, gel-coat.

2. Call and tell the dealer what's going on and ask them what they recommend using on it.

3. For gosh sake's don't tell them what you've already used on it. I've heard of a few instances where folks were told they used the wrong product, didn't ask what to use and got their warranty voided...though I'm almost certain the wool got pulled over their eyes.

Something about this being a 2014 model and already oxidizing to the point of needing wool, compounds and a rotary sends of a red flag in the air with me. Perhaps I need to reread the posts.
Good points and no it should not oxidize this fast and so say the many others with exactly the same issue. I plan to discuss this with the dealer this weekend. Besides it oxidizing so soon even with a quality marine wax applied twice during the last year, it also frustrating when I finished applying the Shurhold Buff Magic it looked wonderful. Only then did I then apply the wax and yet 2 months later oxidation is starting to re appear.

[tuscarora dave]

I think if you'd take the time to go over the gelcoat with a few different grits of sand paper, such as 1500 grit followed by 2000 grit then 2 final passes with 3000 grit to ensure the smoothest possible finish you could have before buffing to a high gloss, it might slow the onset of oxidation because of increased surface tension and less microscopic peaks and valleys for water, fallout etc. to lay and oxidize.

This however is just a theory I have, I haven't tested it.

[Hermes1]

As mentioned we brought our TT in to the dealer on Saturday. The service manager was not there, but the tech who took our TT in, indicated he thought they would repair under warranty as they have done others and recently. In fact there were 3-others on the lot just completed. He indicated it seems to be a clear coat issue, what they have done in these cases, is to wet sand the cap, then re-paint/re-coat with new clear coat. Awaiting the final word, from the service mgr. In the mean time, thank you all for your helpful replies.

[Textrek57]

Hello,

For what it's worth I just restored a 23' 1994 Wellcraft boat of which the stern was badly dulled out due to sun damage. I used a flex 3401 and a three steps of Marine 31 and it turned out great!

1st step- Marine 31 Gel Coat Heavy-Cut Oxidation Cleaner and a 6.5" Orange Lake Country CCS Pad.

2nd step- Marine 31 Gel Coat Final Step Polish and a 6.5" White Lake Country CCS Pad.

3rd step- Marine 31 Gel Coat Carnauba Wax + Sealant and a 6.5" Blue Lake Country CCS Pad.