Help, using too much product

[sircharlespiko]

Hi everyone,
I just want to start by saying that
this is forum such a great place to learn, and I'm thankful for everyone who contributes here. I have been reading for a while, and finally started using my gg6 to polish my fairly neglected 4runner.

I have been trying to clean my orange pads on the fly after every other section, but think I'm using too much polish by doing this. In cleaning the pads, I'm removing the polish from it, therefore need to add a lot more again the next time i use it. Does that sound correct?

I've read multiple "how much much polish to use" threads, but can't seem to figure it out with the above situation. I hope that makes sense. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

[conman1395]

What polish are you using? And what does "add a lot more" mean? Less, the same, or more than you first applied? How many pads are you using for the car?

[Ebg18t]

As conman asked; tell us about the products you using, tell us about your pad cleaning process (using brush?)?

For example On a poor condition 4Runner I would probably end up using 5-7 pads.

[allenk4]

Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide: how to remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with an orbital buffer. Porter Cable 7424, foam pads, backing plate, (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html)

You need to clean your pads after every 2'x2' section

Basic answer is 3-4 dime sized dots of polish per new 24"x24" section

Using too much polish is expensive, slows you down, saturates pads and can ruin them by overheating, etc

[sircharlespiko]

Thanks everyone. I'm using up on 3 orange hex logic pads. I'm cleaning on the fly using a terrible cloth. I also disagree each pad out after each cleaning for a cooler one. 'm putting 4 dimed sized drops each time I use a pad. I only have the two door panels of the SUV left, and half the 16 Oz bottle is gone. The pads just seem so dry after cleaning on the fly with the terry cloth

[cardaddy]

Cleaning on the fly only takes the worst of it out. Once you've primed the pad the first time you don't have to totally re-prime it again.

Typically 3 pea sized dots are all you need for each "section". That section should be no larger than 24"x24".

Depending on the product you are working with you can adjust that a bit.

Shouldn't be hard to do an entire vehicle with 4 ounces if that helps.

The key is that you are not buffing dry, but not crazy wet either. As long as you are leaving a bit of a trail, "wet film" of product you're good. (See the end of the below article.)



BELOW ARTICLE IS COPIED FROM MIKE PHILLIPS.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/35292-how-prime-foam-pad-when-using-da-polisher.html


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Work the product around the face of the pad and into the pores
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Any extra, take and apply to the outer edge until 100% of the working face of the pad is primed with product.
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As an option you can also prime the outer edge. This helps if you're buffing around convex curves or around panels that the edge of your buffing pad may come into contact with, like spoilers, side mirror housings, curved panels etc.

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Primed and ready to add "Working Product" to.
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Adding "Working Product" to the primed pad
Some people will recommend 3 to 4 pea size drops of product as the proper amount of product to use and this can be correct for concentrated products or working small sections and if you follow this advice make sure you are not under-lubricating the surface being worked.

Pea size drops of product
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For some products and paint conditions, you may want more product on the surface working for you. Here's an example of dime size drops of product.

Dime size drops of product
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How much product to use after priming

Ample
You want an AMPLE amount of product when first starting out because you pad is dry and some of the product is going to seep into the pad leaving less on the surface to LUBRICATE and ABRADE the paint

Cut down on the amount of product AFTER pad is broken-in...
After your pad is broken in with product, clean your pad after each section pass and when you apply fresh product you can cut down on the amount of product you actually apply to the face of your pad.


Too Little Product
Under-using product reduces lubricity and will make it more difficult for your pad to rotate efficiently.

Too Much Product
Using too much product will hyper-lubricate or over-lubricate the pad and will interfere with the abrasives ability to abrade the paint.


Keep in mind that you want enough product on the surface so you have,




Abrasives working for you.



A lubricating film between the paint and the pad.

Often times if you don't have enough product to work with you'll end up buffing to a dry buff. When you lose lubrication, friction increase and this can lead to micro-marring or hazing.



2. Applying a Circle Pattern of Product


Benefits to a Circle Pattern
As you work around the car you'll find that your product will migrate to the center on it's own. This can lead to pad saturation starting at the center of the pad where most of the heat is generated.

This can cause problems because wet foam will hold in heat better than dry foam and over time this can accelerate de-lamination between the hook & loop material and either the foam of the pad or the backing material on the backing plate.

Knowing this... I don't help the problem by using an X pattern as using an X-pattern means putting product onto the middle of the face of the pad.

If you're placing pea or dime sized amounts of product to the face of your pad then it's also a good idea to avoid placing the product directly in the center of the pad.

Circle Pattern on a clean dry pad and then worked for a Section Pass
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/AmpleProduct01.jpg http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/AmpleProduct02.jpg


After working the circle of product over a section, you can see it spread the product out over the entire face of the pad without having to spread it with your finger. The pad is now equally primed with residual product.


Cut down on product after your first section pass
At this point you could clean your pad or add fresh product and when you add fresh product you can adjust how much product you apply.

In this example I used half a circle of product since 100% of the face of the pad is now primed from the previously applied and worked product.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/AmpleProduct03.jpg http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/AmpleProduct04.jpg




3. Applying an X-Pattern of Product
Applying your product to the face of your buffing pad using an X-pattern is a fast and simple way way to get product out of the bottle and onto the pad in a measured way that's easy to teach others and a method that's easy to duplicate over and over again.

X-Pattern on a clean dry pad and then worked for a Section Pass
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/AmpleProduct05.jpg http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/AmpleProduct02.jpg


Cut down on product after your first section pass
After making a thorough Section Pass. The pad is now equally primed with residual product. At this point you could clean your pad or add fresh product and when you add fresh product you can adjust how much product you apply. In this example I used half an X-Pattern, or a single strip of product since the pad is already primed.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/AmpleProduct08.jpg http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/AmpleProduct09.jpg




Wet Buffing Technique

Maintain a wet film on the surface
The key is to have enough product on the surface as you're working a section to have a wet film of product that you can see on the surface behind the polisher as you move the polisher over the paint.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/811/AmpleProduct10.jpg

[sircharlespiko]

Thanks for all the helpful responses. I think I was going a little too crazy cleaning on the fly. I'll try to be a little less aggressive with the towel. Thanks again

[cardaddy]

Thanks for all the helpful responses. I think I was going a little too crazy cleaning on the fly. I'll try to be a little less aggressive with the towel. Thanks again
Cleaning on the fly is a good thing. You want to grab the pad with your terry towel and get all of the spent product and abraded paint off of the surface. It'll still be primed down inside the pores, just not sitting in top. I do it after EACH section is completed.

Once the pad is primed however.... all you need for that next section would be the 3 pea (to dime) size drops.

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