Advice on single stage metallic correction

[CIWS40]

I have Mikes book and read through his correction process using the Megs #7. I did two wipe downs with the Megs#7 and had the same results. The issue that is throwing me off is the machine correction. I am using the PC and Megs MF cutting pads with 105 to get out the water stains (sorry will post pics soon).

With this combination I am getting the results I want and the paint is finishing out to an almost mirror finish although loading my MF pads with black from the the metallic flakes . For the polishing step I was using AMMO jewlers polish and the black CCS pad from LC and its finishing out with more haze than just using the 105 and MF. Any advice on why the 105 and MF cutting pads are finishing out better than the Black CCS and AMMO jewelers polish.

Thanks

[CIWS40]

Some additional info the car is a 1964 Chevy II sports coupe the paint is not original according to the numbers in the engine bay. I'm not sure when the car was repainted but it is a single stage and from some of the mistakes in the paint ie drip marks on the lower quarter panels and fenders and some runs that look like they had my seven year old try sand out my take is that it was done in someone's garage. The paint looks imo pretty thick and is polishing out fairly decent just don't understand why it looks like I am working backwards with the jewelers polish and pad.

[Mike Phillips]

First... since this is your first post to the AGO forum...



Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:





I have Mikes book and read through his correction process using the Megs #7.



Thank you for your business. For those reading this into the future the book he's referring to is probably this one,

The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine (http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-create-a-show-car-shine-book.html)


And the article is this one with over a quarter million views...

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html)







I did two wipe downs with the Megs#7 and had the same results.



What were the results?

Did the richness of color come back to the paint and did your towel turn darkish like this when you worked the product in like this,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/859/NonAbrasiveMethod015.jpg




And did you pull off black color like this when you wiped the product off.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/859/NonAbrasiveMethod018.jpg






The issue that is throwing me off is the machine correction. I am using the PC and Megs MF cutting pads with 105 to get out the water stains (sorry will post pics soon).

With this combination I am getting the results I want and the paint is finishing out to an almost mirror finish although loading my MF pads with black from the the metallic flakes .



This sounds like you're on the right track. I hope you took GREAT BEFORE pictures like I explain in this article.

The power in the after shots is created in the before shots (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/21216-power-after-shots-created-before-shots.html)


The after pictures are cool and all that but there's no power in them unless the world can see what the paint looked like when you started.







For the polishing step I was using AMMO jewlers polish and the black CCS pad from LC and its finishing out with more haze than just using the 105 and MF.



That could be the foam and that could be the polish, (I've never used any of Larry's products), or a combination of the two.

Antique single stage paint is a different animal altogether than modern basecoat/clearcoats as I'm sure you're learning.

Antique single stage METALLIC paints are the hardest type of pint to restore in the entire known universe.

They tend to react like marine gel-coats in that they like fiber pads and high speeds.

The M105 actually can be worked to you get a polished looking appearance and at this point if you're happy with the results I'd consider applying a follow-up coat of the #7 to re-saturate the paint and the seal the surface with a traditional Carnauba Wax.

My guess is following the above procedure will get you to where you want to be and an extra polishing step with foam might not be worth the time.

Another option if you want to use a dedicated polish would be to try the Meguiar's M205 with a "polishing" pad, either microfiber or foam but don't use a soft foam finishing pad. Also use higher speeds versus lower speeds and reduce the downward pressure for your last few passes.

I'm really looking forward to the pictures and the 1964 Chevy II is a very cool car.


:)



Any advice on why the 105 and MF cutting pads are finishing out better than the Black CCS and AMMO jewelers polish.

Thanks[/QUOTE]

[Mike Phillips]

The paint looks imo pretty thick and is polishing out fairly decent just don't understand why it looks like I am working backwards with the jewelers polish and pad.



Could just be the pad/polish combo.


Take heart and click this link for some inspiration becasue this single stage metallic paint restoreation was a true miracle....


1971 Dodge Coronet Original Paint Extreme Makeover with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/62605-1971-dodge-coronet-original-paint-extreme-makeover-meguiar-s-7-show-car-glaze.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/1971_Dodge_Single_Stage_003.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/1971_Dodge_Single_Stage_015.jpg



More and ever better before and after in the actual thread.


:)

[CIWS40]

Mike,

Thank you for the welcome and further education. I'm what most consider a weekend warrior in regards to the detailing world. I do most of the extended families vehicle just perfecting the process.

In regards the the rub down with #7 I did two rubdown and let sit 24 hours between the two. The paint on my deuce isn't near as bad as the coronet it just wasn't shining like I thought it should light oxidation and water stains cause I left the cover off of it for a while. The rubdown was worth it color restored and shine was better went through a few cloths on that (wife was thrilled).

I don't have any pics before the Meg's 7 but I have a 50/50 of the hood after using the Meg's and leveling fluid. I'll have them up soon

Brandon

[Mike Phillips]

I don't have any pics before the Meg's 7 but I have a 50/50 of the hood after using the Meg's and leveling fluid.



Leveling Fluid - Never heard of that one before. :xyxthumbs:






I'll have them up soon

Brandon

Looking forward to the side-by-side, before and after pictures. IF you need help getting them on the forum shoot me a PM


:dblthumb2: