First attempt at polishing

[wadebart]

I've received a Griot's Garage 6" random orbital polisher for Christmas and plan on doing my first "proper" paint polishing. Here's my plan:

1. Wash car down. Should I use a normal car shampoo or dawn dish detergent?

2. Use CarPro IronX

3. Polish with Scholl Concepts S3 Gold

4. Finishing polish with Scholl Concepts S40 Ultra-Finishing Polish.

5. Normal car wash with Chemical Guys - Mr. Pink Super Suds Car Wash Soap and Shampoo. Or should I use IronX again?

6. Finish up with Sonus ION Paint Coat?

Looking for input or anything I might be missing. I'm a newbie!

[WillWashesCars]

What pads will you be using? Also what car/color? And no need to use Iron-X twice, but depending on the car you may need to still clay after Iron-X.

[SameGuy]

As Will says, you may need to mechanically decontaminate after Iron-X. No need to wash or decontaminate again after polishing. Just apply your last step protection and admire the results of your work!

[wadebart]

Lake Country orange polishing and red finishing pads.


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[wadebart]

Car color is dark gray and about a year and a half old. Purchased new.


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[wadebart]

What soap should I use for the first step?


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[dsg03gt]

You can use the Mr Pink

[Belair]

I would clay it after Iron X.

[wdmaccord]

I would clay it after Iron X.

Agree, you should clay after IX. After your finishing polish, wipe down with 15% IPA mixture and put the sealant/coating on.

[RobertJ34]

1- wash.
2-iron x
3-clay
4-polish
5-IPA wipedown as 'wdmaccord' stated above.
6- Coating or "LSP" (last step product)

Just incase, IPA is isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)
this article will help you incase not sure of the proper mix (water to IPA ratio)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/31183-how-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html

Best of luck!

[SameGuy]

I would only do a wipe if I was using incompatible products.

[wadebart]

Meguiars smooth surface clay kit OK to use?


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[Velocitybts]

1. Wash car down. Should I use a normal car shampoo or dawn dish detergent?

2. Use CarPro IronX

3. Polish with Scholl Concepts S3 Gold

4. Finishing polish with Scholl Concepts S40 Ultra-Finishing Polish.

5. Normal car wash with Chemical Guys - Mr. Pink Super Suds Car Wash Soap and Shampoo. Or should I use IronX again?

6. Finish up with Sonus ION Paint Coat?

Looking for input or anything I might be missing. I'm a newbie!

Alright lets see if we can give you some help w/instructions

1. Wash it down really well, using Dawn is just fine (just use a mitt that is diff than the one you normally use), this will rid the surface of any LSP (last step product, i.e.... wax/sealant/oils)

2. Iron X

3. If you have not bought clay yet, then buy the Nanoskin Disc. This product is great, worth every penny and u can use over and over again, if dropped then spray it off. I hate clay, this changed my opinion, and I use the same Dawn wash bucket to lubricate it, just a little heavier with the soap.

4. Start polishing. Compounding stage you want to use a heavier cutting "polish" to level the surface. Yes the Scholl S3 Compound is the one to start with. Make sure you test an area of the car first and see what works the best. You can try the heavier cutting pad with the S40 polish first to see how that works. Then try the White light cutting pad with the S3 next. If one of those works then start there. IF not then heavy cutting pad and S3. You want to go lightest cutting to heaviest in the process. The least amount of Clear Coat you remove is the best. Some areas of the vehicle may be better or worse so you might have to switch up a little so you remove the least amount.

You said Orange LC (which one) some are cutting and some are light cut polish. If CCS pads then yes and white for polishing. You want to use at least 3-4 if not 5-6 for the whole car, unless you clean them every few panels. Clear Coat will build up on the pads and make them not as productive and can introduce increased marring from the debris. Standard size sedan I use 6 pads for cutting, not including small pads for tight areas.

Polishing - you want to use a light cut polishing pad (red is no cut for most of LC's pads that is used to VERY lightly polish or apply sealant) Usually this is a White pad or Green and use this with a light polish such as your Scholl S40. Start you first 2-3 passes with normal pressure, then your last 2 passes with little to no pressure and just the weight of your buffer. Do the same similar process doing a pass or so with very little pressure at the end of compounding also. This helps lessen the marring left by the pad and compound.

If using a coating like you said you were, then after all is polished to the way you want, lightly wash the vehicle off with Dawn and this will help remove all the oils from the polishes. This will help prepare the surface to accept the coating. If using the same brand of liquids, and applying a sealant, then you would not have to wash it, just apply the LSP and be done. Coatings need a fresh surface.

Remember, over 60% of scratches come from the drying stage of the vehicle. Do yourself a favor and buy a Master Blaster air dryer (about 80$) and use this from now on. You will be amazed how scratch free the car will be 6 months from now. This is actually my favorite part of the process. Call me nuts I guess. :)

[Blade]

I'd skip the IPA wipe, but that's just me.

[SameGuy]

No, it's not just you. :)