Hello!

[He Hate Me]

Hello all,

Awesome forum, learning lots with all the plethora of knowledge articles and user posts, still have a lot to learn though.

In the stable I have a: 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 (mine) and 2007 4-Runner(wifes). I accidentally gave her truck some scratches (darn tree branches and narrow trails) while off-roading so I owe her a detail. I figured since I am in desperate need of one too it would be in my best interest to invest in a DA. :buffing:

Picked up a Porter Cable 7242XP with the Hex-Logic pads. When I bought my Mazda it has what look to be some egging on the hood and on the rear driver-side door. What I'm curious most is will this ruin the pads at all since it is slightly raised and abrasive? Do I need to wet-sand these areas down a bit? Also have to what looks like some clear coat failing or oxidation (just small part on spoiler), not sure, need more reading :xyxthumbs. The 4-Runner I feel pretty confident about doing as they seem like light surface scatches.

http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab359/wozzy44/20141027_072633_RichtoneHDR_zpsbammvyqh.jpg (http://s879.photobucket.com/user/wozzy44/media/20141027_072633_RichtoneHDR_zpsbammvyqh.jpg.html)

http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab359/wozzy44/20141221_072557_zpsjbn1nx26.jpg (http://s879.photobucket.com/user/wozzy44/media/20141221_072557_zpsjbn1nx26.jpg.html)

I also did the headlights by hand with Ultimate Compound and looks good, but hope to touch them up a little more with the DA. Will grab pics of 4-Runner later as well.

From what I've gathered, Mazda has "soft paint", still trying to absorb what that actually means though, a little more reading and I should get it down as I don't want to make anything worse.

In my arsenal so far I have (obviously everyone has brand preferences but I'm hoping these will suffice for a beginner):

2 bucket wash
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss
Chemical Guys Claybar (medium duty) and Synthetic lube
Megiuars Ultimate Compound
Chemical Guys Final Step Polish
Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax


I also put these in the order I plan on doing this.


Thanks for looking and your help!

[RobertJ34]

In regards to the soft paint--this article may help. Pics were deleted or moved but not really needed to understand. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/61683-working-soft-paint.html

Also, Welcome to AG.

This will help also.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/
Read under "Detailers Library"

I learned every thing about detailing just from autogeek alone. I'm not a pro, but I've done a few cars for fun and they turned out great.

[WAXOFF]

Welcome aboard and read a lot and learn.

[cardaddy]

:welcome:to AGO!

This is the first step in your 7-step path to detailing insanity! :D

So when you picked up the PC, did you get the 5" backing plate, and ONLY 5½" pads? If not, you - need - both. While the PC is a great little machine, it simply doesn't have enough power to work with 6½" pads.

Now that we have that outta' the way. ;)

Your Mazda I wouldn't consider 'soft' when compared to a lot of what's out there, IE Subaru for instance. :eek: I've worked on several Mazda 3's, one a Mazdaspeed version. It (the paint) wasn't as hard as on a GM truck, but it wasn't soft either. FWIW, 'soft' generally is a term that'll describe how easily it will micro-mar ESPECIALLY when in the compound stage. As well as how easily it scratches when just washing and drying it! :eek:

The first time I did the Mazdaspeed version it was all OEM paint. Second time the right side had been repaired after taking out a brick mailbox! :(
Wasn't what I'd consider 'soft' either time.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2193/IMG_02554.JPG

As for clear coat failure, and the egging stains..... pfffftttt..... that's one you have to call by sight, ear, feel, smell, (whatever) when you are working with it. If you have clear flakes of clear that are broken through to the base coat that can be a problem when you start compounding. :eek:

Would I tell you to wet sand? NOT ON MY LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't use CG products (other than shampoo's) so hopefully someone else will chime in here RE the pads.

I would say though that if you already have Ultimate Compound, then get Ultimate Polish. Also, you should seriously consider a sealant over a 'wax'. Whether that be Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax, Meguiar's #26 Yellow Wax (which is a sealant that has carnauba in it as well), Meguiar's M21 2.0 or even a sealant from CG such as Jet Seal, V7, even Blitz. Another choice would be Collinite 845 for it's excellent durability. (It's a great winter sealant I'm told, although on the bottle it actually says "Surface should be lukewarm.".

We also have a 4Runner (3rd gen) in silver and that paint is HARD! :eek: So much so that you might not be able to totally correct it with Ultimate Compound and a cutting pad equivalent to say a Lake Country "orange". We've gone after ours with yellow and orange pads, as well as Megs microfiber pads. And with compounds from 101, to 105 to D300. (I wouldn't waste something like FG400 on it as it'd probably take a TON of it, and a LONG TIME spent working it down.) It did respond (after compounding) to Ultimate Polish, but 205 tended to get the job done better (and quicker).

That shot of the spoiler looks fine btw. I'd just go at it lightly and see if that gets you the desired results.

Remember, do your test spots. You might find that the same compound on one pad doesn't work but does on another. Or that your chosen compound is too much and you end up micro-marring the paint. That is why it's critical "To use the least aggressive method".

[He Hate Me]

Thank you for all the welcomes and detailed explanations!

cardaddy:
I actually got the bundle package from Chemical Guys which included 5 different Hex-Logic pads (from orange and up) and the backing plate. I'm not sure why I brand favor them thus far as I've never used their products, but they are local, as I am in SoCal. Ahhh, I had a Sealant+Wax in my cart as well and then started reading reviews on the "butter" wax and switched :(

Thank you for the all the info on Mazda and Toyota paint! I'm going to have my work cutout for me for the Toyota as it's down the whole side of the passenger side and paint is Phantom Micah (almost like a black :()

So, if I do get clear flakes from trying the compound on the egg on the hood, should I stop immediately and just go to a polish?

[cardaddy]

Thank you for all the welcomes and detailed explanations!

cardaddy:
I actually got the bundle package from Chemical Guys which included 5 different Hex-Logic pads (from orange and up) and the backing plate. I'm not sure why I brand favor them thus far as I've never used their products, but they are local, as I am in SoCal. Ahhh, I had a Sealant+Wax in my cart as well and then started reading reviews on the "butter" wax and switched :(

Thank you for the all the info on Mazda and Toyota paint! I'm going to have my work cutout for me for the Toyota as it's down the whole side of the passenger side and paint is Phantom Micah (almost like a black :()

So, if I do get clear flakes from trying the compound on the egg on the hood, should I stop immediately and just go to a polish?

You're certainly welcome. :)

I'd not start with the compounding stage first on the hood, if you think it's having ANY clear coat failure AT ALL. Hit it with a polish and a medium cut pad, work the product though it's working cycle, then go back and inspect it.

If you compound it first, and the clear is indeed flaking, you'll end up having to repaint it in a hurry. :eek:

I'd still get a sealant, hands down.

Here's a shot of my son's 4Runner after we pulled the roof rack of and repainted it. Polished it with Megs 101 then Megs 205 and sealed it with Megs M21 2.0.

That was the first time it was ever buffed, (and it's a 98). We bought it a few years ago with 141K on it from the original owner.

Since then it's had Pinnacle Black Label Coating on it, and Duragloss coating. Then a couple months ago it got a good layer of Wolfgang Deep Gloss sealant 3.0. :rolleyes:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1712/medium/IMG_9328.jpg

[He Hate Me]

You're certainly welcome. :)

I'd not start with the compounding stage first on the hood, if you think it's having ANY clear coat failure AT ALL. Hit it with a polish and a medium cut pad, work the product though it's working cycle, then go back and inspect it.

If you compound it first, and the clear is indeed flaking, you'll end up having to repaint it in a hurry. :eek:

I'd still get a sealant, hands down.

Here's a shot of my son's 4Runner after we pulled the roof rack of and repainted it. Polished it with Megs 101 then Megs 205 and sealed it with Megs M21 2.0.

That was the first time it was ever buffed, (and it's a 98). We bought it a few years ago with 141K on it from the original owner.

Since then it's had Pinnacle Black Label Coating on it, and Duragloss coating. Then a couple months ago it got a good layer of Wolfgang Deep Gloss sealant 3.0. :rolleyes:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1712/medium/IMG_9328.jpg

Ugh, I knew that egg would be a pain in the butt in the end.

That is a deep looking white! It looks fantastic! Can't wait to crack the PC open soon. I will also stop by the CG guys store to look at sealants (from what I've read Jetseal seems pretty good?) as I just found out that there is a location on my way to work! Winning!