Questions on new foam cannon

[skyace888]

Hi guys,

I just received my new AutoGeek foam cannon and have some questions before I use it. (There was no manual included with it for some reason).

1. What is the nozzle at the top of the cannon used for? Does it control the amount of soap that gets mixed in? I know that the adjustment at the tip is for the spray pattern.

2. I have the DP foam and I assume that I put about 2oz in there per 6 oz of water per the instructions for a foam gun, right? I'll probably need to experiment over time for the right amount.

3. I've seen some people online that just begin by foaming the car and some others first rinse it and then foam. Any best practice?

4. I assume that I will need to get a Y adapter at my hose nozzle and use both a pressure washer and a regular hose since there is no easy way with the cannon to switch between foam and water, right?

5. This is the tentative process that I came up with. I would appreciate any thoughts:

Do tires and wheels with 2BM (then refresh buckets)
Rinse and foam or just foam entire vehicle
Wait a few minutes and then rinse
Do 2BM method for car
Rinse
Final sheeting rinse
Dry


Thanks in advance!

Regards,
Al

[skyace888]

Bump. Any thoughts?

[firecorgi]

Al,

Sent you a PM.

[aim4squirrels]

On my foam cannon (MTM Hydro) the top knob determines how much soap mixture enters the water flow through the cannon. More soap typically means better foam, and on my model I get weak-to-no foam unless the knob is open full bore. The obvious trade off is you use more solution. I doubt the AG cannon is much different as it is the same basic concept for almost all of these types of cannons on the market.

My process for a thorough wash:
-Pull out two buckets, put soap in one, nothing in the other.
-fill both buckets with water from hose.
-connect hose to PW.
-drop dedicated lower panel mitt into bucket with soap. Drop paint safe mitt into bucket of clean water.
-use PW to knock off any caked on mud if it exists.
-wash lowest trim on the vehicle with soapy mitt (my Challenger has a border of all plastic trim on the bottom, so I don't have paint down there to scratch.)
-Ditch the mitt, but use the same bucket of soapy water, a wheel brush, and diluted APC to clean tires, wheels, and wells. I find the brush full of suds keeps the APC from flicking everywhere.
-Rinse all currently washed spots, dump used bucket of soapy water, then rinse that bucket, used mitt, and wheel brush.
-Foam entire car.
-dwell as long as my eyes say it's safe to do so.
-rinse with PW.
-Re spray roof of vehicle with foam cannon, wash that panel with paint safe mitt from clean water bucket, dunk mitt in rinse water, foam next panel, wash, repeat until done with car. Always work from highest and cleanest panels down to the lowest and dirtiest. Rinse mitt for every panel in clean water bucket with grit guard. I like to give the guard a good scrubbing with the wash mitt to loosen and release dirt.
-leave mitt in rinse water.
-rinse vehicle with PW.
-Inspect. If necessary, rewash and rinse any missed spots, stubborn bugs, etc.
-sheet rinse.
-blow dry with leaf blower. Move fast and hit the seams and other hiding places for water.
-dry with MM dry me crazy towel.

This method takes me around 1.5 to 2 hours, but I only do it if I see heavier soiling like after a rain storm, long periods of no washing, etc.

For lighter soiling and weekly maintenance washes I tend to do the wheels rims and wells the same as above, hit the car with the PW, and then a rinseless wash using a new folded towel for each panel, and a new face of the towel for each wipe. I typically use 10 or so towels per wash.

I don't think any method of rinseless works as well for wheels, tires, and wells as the above method, at least for me.

Also I'm still too chicken to do a rinseless wash on dry paint that hasn't been rinsed with a pressure washer. Waterless washes are Voodoo and forbidden magics I don't dare dabble in.