Paint Care Question???

[CJM]

Hello all,
Carson, Texas
This is my first time to post.
I recently got my new Porter Cable 7424xp. My product of choice is Mothers. I purchased at same time their professional line (#81232, #81132, #82332, #83432.) I have done a complete seven step process to my Sister in laws new mustang.
1. clay bar
2. heavy compound
3. rubbing compound
4. polish
5. glaze
6. seal (chemical guys jet seal)
7. wax
The car looks amazing but it took two full days to finish.
One of these days I will do my own two cars. I realize you don't need to do all seven steps every time. I have two Questions.
1. How many times can you use the compounds before you burn through the clear coat of todays newer paints.
2. I researched some of the all-in-one waxes, to save time of coarse. All though I feel that you get a better result when doing them one at a time. Any info or product recemendations that I should try would be great.

[MarkD51]

Hello and welcome to the forum.
Do stick around, and perhaps firstly concentrate on absorbing as much of Mike Phillip's tutorials and how to's as you can.

Many, and myself might say and ask if it was truly necessary and needed to use heavier compounds and polishes on what you state was a new car?

Your general rule of thumb will always be to use the least agressive methods and products to get the job done correcting the paint.

Mike and others will advise to always do a test spot. See what works, and to then simply repeat this same process upon the rest of the vehicle.

That if it should be found that a milder finishing polish is accomplishing the task, then you're good, and have saved yourself from unnecessarily removing more of the precious paint layer.

Sure, there may be certain areas of any vehicle where deeper swirls and damage may be present. Then upon later inspection and noting these remaining flaws, only then repeat a process or perhaps only then resort to a more agressive product-pad and technique.Then again finish up with your mild finishing polish.

Always keep in mind that a clear coat layer of paint is only the thickness of a postage stamp or a post-it note.

One other step you might consider skipping is Glaze. Glaze may enhance gloss, but can possibly hinder waxes or sealants from fully bonding to the finish. That if your polish correction has been properly done and accomplished, then just go straight to the sealant/wax protectant.
Hope this helps, and again welcome,and have fun!
Mark

[Bunky]

I have two Questions.
1. How many times can you use the compounds before you burn through the clear coat of todays newer paints.
2. I researched some of the all-in-one waxes, to save time of coarse. All though I feel that you get a better result when doing them one at a time. Any info or product recemendations that I should try would be great.

1. If you properly corrected the paint (actually removed them versus hiding them), you should not need to use anything but a mild polish if you wash your car properly (not add the scratches back into the paint due to poor washing/drying methods). You can use a mild polish every year without worries.

2, After you do 1, an AIO would be something to consider on an annual basis and then top your favorite sealant or wax. Protected (wax or sealant) is easier to keep clean and maintaining it regularly with a spray sealant/wax will keep it going for a long time.

[MarkD51]

Decontamination (Commonly called "decon" here) was just as important 50-60 years ago to a vehicle, as it is at current day. Of course those many years ago, we did not have any of the miracle products that are available to us today.

Like Clay Bars, Decon Sponges, Towels which act like clay or the Ferrous Particle Removers like Iron-X-etc.

So, let me perhaps be the first to introduce you to what is referred to as "The Baggie Test". It is usually a good judge of just how "clean" a vehicle is, and when I say "Vehicle", I mean paint, glass, trim, wheels, the whole kit and kaboodle.

Wash car, dry, grab the thinnest plastic Sammy bag you can get your hands on. Place hand inside and feel your paint, glass, and anything else.
Bumpiness will be a sign of above surface contaminants bonded to the surface of the paint/glass/etc.

Minimum is Clay, an amazing product, wish this stuff was around 30 years ago!

Not only will you find enough tutorials about car care, and learn more, just like others and I have, but there are usually an endless amount of vids, both here, autopia the sister site, and places like Youtube.

I would imagine if you typed in Mike Phillips, you will find a great variety of vids showcasing his techniques and incomparable mastery of all things pertaining to car care.

[Belphegor]

A paint thickness gauge will tell you how thick your base coat and clear coat are. With knowledge of the thickness of the paint you're working with, you will know how how often you can compound. It is wise to compound a daily driver as few times as possible, as compounding takes clear coat away, and thinner clear coat typically leaders to clear coat failure.

All in one products are typically marketed towards production detailers, and are not meant to replace deep swirl removers or dedicated waxes or sealants. For most hobbyists that are passionate and active in car care, an all in one is second tier to a once or twice yearly polish with M205 and select wax, sealant, or sometimes coating applied afterward. Even more, most of us acquire so many different LSPs that we can hardly let any wax/sealant last more than a month before we swap out!

I thoroughly enjoy applying waxes and sealants, as well as trim and tire dressings. If you feel the same, consider staying away from coatings of all types and have fun applying different "short term" LSPs when the detailing bug bites you!

[allenk4]

Test Spot +10