Price on Paint correction!

[FTD]

I am not new to detailing, or reconditioning vehicles. I have years of experience doing extensive work on a lot of cars/trucks ect...

I am however, new to running a business. I am starting a shop up in January, and right now I do mobile calls. I just started advertising this past week for full interior jobs, head light/ tail light restoration, and paint correction. Yes I know the season sucks here in New England, but you have to start some time.

I don't have my own water or electricity yet, and I ask to use the electricity to run the buffer/vacuum extractor/ steamer. And if they want me to do a paint correction I need water to wash the car. If you take into effect of how much water I use, its hardly any. Electricity is most of my concern. I would use a generator, but the damn noise of one constantly running is annoying to customers and myself.

Is it wrong to require use of these utilities while on a mobile call? I don't charge a trip charge or as much as I would if they were in my shop.

So lets cut to the chase, I want peoples opinions on my price for paint correction, and I don't care about sharing them, I will adjust them to my states economy, I just want an educated opinion.

Paint correction=$60/hour? or flat rate?

Opti gloss= paint correction +$200 (no one does this in my arera, so I would be the only constant one, price is a guesstimate based on what Ive seen on the web)

My interior prices are flat depending on what people want done.

let me know guys.

[lyodbraun]

Charge what you see is a fair price for your work... You can always negotiate on prices.. Depending on the jobs and how much work needs done...

[WA.Detailer]

What is the "Market" average for Detailing in this area ?

What is the average "Quality" of the Details being done in this area?

Have you gone out to all the Detailing Shops, talked to them, looked at their brochures, and seen their pricing ?

What does their work look like? What level of vehicles do they have in their shops ? Chevys? Audi? Aston Martin?, etc...

Hard to help without knowing your skillset measured in years, and then what you have done before..

What level of Client/vehicle are you focusing on ?

You state $60/hour for paint correction - what level of paint correction?
What machine/s are you using and how experienced are you with them?
DanF

[Garyhw48]

For me, this is the hardest thing about detailing. I live in an area that makes it hard to get what a really excellent detail job is worth. There are a few that want the best and are willing to pay for it but most aren't.

I have always charged a flat price and ask them what they want and make it very clear what they are getting and how much it will cost them. There is a shop in my town that charges $85 for a interior clean up, wash and once over wax job with a wool pad on a rotary buffer that has swirl marks that stick out like a sore thumb.

There is another one that charges $95 for a total clean up, even under the hood and shampoo the interior, put a coat of wax on the paint and if it's a truck they even paint the rear axle with black paint. Both of these shops stay covered up with work.

The only advise I can give you, is to do your thing, get your customers, keep them happy and don't worry about what the other guy is doing.

[allenk4]

Hard to help without knowing your skillset measured in years, and then what you have done before..

DanF

What exactly does this have to do with setting your pricing or the results you are able to produce?

[FUNX650]

Would I be wrong to assume that you're a legitimate Business entity?
{Ex.: Licensed; insured; etc.}



My interior prices are flat depending on what people want done.


Paint correction=$60/hour? or flat rate?

No flat rate for me...
It's by the hour. :dblthumb2:

Anyway:
Why would you differentiate your pricing methodology between exterior and interior tasks? I sure wouldn't!

Now...about that $60 [:eek:] hourly rate:
What is the D.O.T. NO., (per the Dept. of Labor), for the classification of "Detailer"?

With that in mind:
I personally can't justify, and absolutely would not pay that exorbitant amount for anyone to "detail" my vehicles.
Conversely:
I can't justify, and absolutely would not charge that amount to "detail" anyone's vehicles.



Opti gloss= paint correction +$200 (no one does this in my arera, so I would be the only constant one, price is a guesstimate based on what Ive seen on the web)
^^^I've also seen this.^^^

It's what I consider to be:
Out-of-this-World, outrageous---even obscene---pricing.

However:
That doesn't mean you can't attempt this pricing scale in your market area. Good Luck...if you decide to do so.


Bob

[allenk4]

I agree with Bob that giving the Customer a quote by the hour could turn off a lot of people

If they make $20 an hour, why do you "deserve" $60 per hour

BTW, if you are able to get $60 an hour and consistently work 40 hours...you will be making $120k a year gross!

[FTD]

What is the "Market" average for Detailing in this area ?

What is the average "Quality" of the Details being done in this area?

Have you gone out to all the Detailing Shops, talked to them, looked at their brochures, and seen their pricing ?

What does their work look like? What level of vehicles do they have in their shops ? Chevys? Audi? Aston Martin?, etc...

Hard to help without knowing your skillset measured in years, and then what you have done before..

What level of Client/vehicle are you focusing on ?

You state $60/hour for paint correction - what level of paint correction?
What machine/s are you using and how experienced are you with them?
DanF


Would I be wrong to assume that you're a legitimate Business entity?
{Ex.: Licensed; insured; etc.}


No flat rate for me...
It's by the hour. :dblthumb2:

Anyway:
Why would you differentiate your pricing methodology between exterior and interior tasks? I sure wouldn't!

Now...about that $60 [:eek:] hourly rate:
What is the D.O.T. NO., (per the Dept. of Labor), for the classification of "Detailer"?

With that in mind:
I personally can't justify, and absolutely would not pay that exorbitant amount for anyone to "detail" my vehicles.
Conversely:
I can't justify, and absolutely would not charge that amount to "detail" anyone's vehicles.


^^^I've also seen this.^^^

It's what I consider to be:
Out-of-this-World, outrageous---even obscene---pricing.

However:
That doesn't mean you can't attempt this pricing scale in your market area. Good Luck...if you decide to do so.


Bob

Well to answer the questions first. I have done my research, walked in a lot of shops and made a lot of calls. I was told that the average paint correction on a car runs between $300-$600 based on work needed. 3 out of the 7 shops charge hourly, and its $70/hour and one was $65/hour.

The work coming out is "ok" at best. Most of them cut corners. Compound all over moldings, some light hazing on my friends car from one shop. The craigslist detailers ruin most of the cars for $75. (not to say I dont advertise on CL, but most of them are looking for a quick buck and rip off customers with half ass jobs.

My experience level is probably on par with most pro shops. I have been seriously detailing cars since I was 13. I started working in a body shop at 14, and now at 26, I spent 5 years in a classic car, and exotic car warehouse doing photo shoots and detailing owners cars. The body shop taught me to do extensive work, welding, color sanding, dry and wet sanding, painting. The biggest rule broken in body shop detailing is allowing people to put silicone products on a car while others are being painted or worked on.....nib city!!

I have made my fare share of mistakes, and learned how to avoid more work by doing it right. The tools I use concurrently :

Rupes 15ES D/A polisher (3 months)
3M Rotary with quick release pads (1 year, awesome damn buffer and pads)
Ingersol Rand D/A Palm finishing pneumatic sander. (color/ wet/dry sanding)
Shurhold D/A buffer with lake country set....this is a good machine for the price.
Daimer steamer
Mytee extractor
Tornador
the list goes on.

Chemicals:
Meguiars mirror glaze product line (Awesome stuff)
3m Perfect-it 3 step polishing (extensive experience with this chemical)
Rupes bigfoot polishes
Some chemical guys, mostly jetseal.

As far as the pricing goes, nothing is rock solid yet guys, I am feeling around for the proper pricing. I was told hourly is better, but I am seeing a lot of people dont like it on here. As of right now I am in the filing process for my licensing, and insurance, I am waiting for the shop im renting to open up in January (Tenant moves out December).
Once that happens I will be 100% official.

I want to make custom detail packages for customers at flat rates. Paint correction being the most expensive.
If i have to do all levels of correction, compounding, polishing, glazing, sealant, and 2 coats of wax I would charge normally between $200-$400 depending on the size of the vehicle. Interior jobs will start at $80, and go up depending on if customer want shampoo and extraction. I steam pretty much every car I work on, it just works the best over most chemicals, and it cleans leather like a boss. I will negotiate with people, its all about the customer, make them happy, they will keep coming back.

I am aiming to be the best in my area, being that I am young, and have absolutely no stance in the state, it will be difficult, but an achievable goal. The very thought of detailing a car physically makes me happy. I cant explain it any other way. If I apply that passion to my work every day, while keeping a good business image, I feel that I will be successful. Thats not to say I wont face challenges. I just sincerely love cars and detailing. So any help from the business community and more experienced people such as yourselves helps a a lot and criticism is welcomed.

[FTD]

Oh to answer the legitimate business thing....in RI I cant apply as a LLC until I have an address of business, and paying rent, or a mortgage on it. So once I sign the lease the person I am working with file everything. In addition it's going to cost right around $300 to file everything, and insurance is ridic low....no workman's comp yet, but I will have someone working with me within 6 months, or when I can afford to pay them a good wage.

[cardaddy]

@ FTD, sounds like you're on the right track to me.

If you can put your prices just below the 'well known guys' yet provide superior service and results that should be enough to keep you booked up after the first year or so. Until then you may have to adjust your pricing, maybe take on vehicles that don't exactly match your 'target market' if for no other reason than to keep steady income coming in.


@ Bob;

I understand where *you* are coming from my friend, knowing that you can buy GlossCoat for $90, as well as have the skill, knowledge, and ability to correct the paint to the point where you can install it.

But don't you think it's worth at least a 50% markup plus a bit of labor (and adding in for materials, applicator pads, cloths etc.) to hire a qualified installer of such? :dunno:

I know there is NO FRIGGIN WAY that I'd even consider charging anyone less than $150 (in addition to paint correction) when I spent my money first on the product. (Most likely it'd be $199 for added installation because of all the extra effort involved with the correction and most importantly, the whole "panel wipe" stage. Quite a bit of which we need not do when applying a sealant I might add.) ;)

Now that being said; I *might* under certain circumstances be willing to let an owner/friend/associate purchase GlossCoat with their own money and have me install it.... after being duly paid for proper paint correction. :dblthumb2:

Remembering of course that OCP is only $150 and the cost to have IT installed is $495!
(And I know you'll NEVER be willing to cross that bridge my friend. Neither will I for that matter!) :laughing:

[Znig22]

Depending on how much experience you have and I mean no harm by saying this but when you feel comfortable evaluating a vehicle and knowing how long it takes to knock that particular vehicle out then you can give a flat rate and give them a time frame on how long it will take, 1,2 or even 3 days depending on the budget of the customer. You can sell them a single step and explain correction percentage, a 2 step and explain correction percentage, and then you can try for the all out, 2 step and chasing all the RIDS with spot wet sanding, or maybe even a full wet sand and correction.

No matter how you approach your sales pitch you need to know in the back of your mind how long each job will take due to size and condition. I personally know a medium size car takes me between 8-14 hours to complete depending on hardness of clear for a basic 2 step, So i price it at 14 hours, and then give the customer a flat rate, If i don't work the entire time frame I cut the price I quoted or either throw in additional services (interior detailing, glass polishing, trim coatings, etc. etc.)

This works for me, Figure out what your worth and don't back down, If the customer doesn't like you pricing and is not willing to make a deal after your sales pitch and multiple options tell them to have a great day and go after another customer. Just this week I had a 2015 Maserati scheduled for a correction and OCP application, the customer purchased it last week set a appointment with me, called me and confirmed the appointment 2 days prior to the job and then the morning of her appointment I made arrangements to pick her car up from her office at 8:30am and take it to my garage, once I arrived she wasn't there. I waited 30 minutes and her employees finally called her and she said "tell him to come back at 1pm" haha I was pissed, I had a Jeep Cherokee sitting in my garage that needed a correction and OCP so I told the employees to relay my message. "have her reschedule with me in a few weeks" and I walked out. I haven't heard from her but I run a legitimate business and I have to go where the money is but I will not cut my throat while doing it.

I hope this helps in some way.

[WA.Detailer]

FTD -
Thank you for providing more detailed info regarding your experience !
Looks like we have a very similar background.
I also started at my Dad's gas station, repair shop, body shop in back, and absolutely loved and got great at all of it, too!

You have what looks like a very well-rounded knowledge of all the pieces it takes to make a great Detailer with a greater business someday..

You mentioned Painting - did you get your Apprenticeship and Journeyman levels ? I loved that part but after awhile, this is before they took all the solvents out, I opted out because I wanted to make more money for my family, and didnt want to harm my long-term health..

I have seen my share of "fisheyes" in paintwork from not getting everything off the primer before painting, or that "someone" who walked into the Paintbooth and touched something... maddening... :)

Glad you took the time to do research - there is nothing better you can ever do than to know your competition and find a way to render them no longer your competition, through great, honest, perfect, work and work ethics and standards..

If they are mostly "production shops" and not Custom Detail Shops, then you are already ahead if you can turn out not just good work but great work consistently, no "Im sorry I missed that, "do overs", etc...

The Clientele Im hoping you can find through more research, are those that are already wealthy, have several nice cars, mostly foreign, and value them and want them to be around for a long time for everything, pleasure, specific projects, investments, etc...

These people are going to be older and wiser, and can spot all the negative things in a business, a person, etc., very quickly because they have been doing this for a living probably all their lives..

This is why the hard questions.. So you can be totally prepared and in control when you meet them hopefully in person, and you then exude total control, in charge, confidence+, and give them a short synopsis of your well rounded experience level in years, show them your well prepared portfolio of pictures, very well taken with great camera on a tripod, and you properly dressed, there will be absolutely not one hint of doubt in your mind, demeanor, or body language..

The Clients I worked with in WA., were all the above I just mentioned and more... Fluke Instruments, Boeing, Microsoft, Starbucks, Nordstrom's, etc.. All millionaire/billionaire, etc...

I have seen the 3m air Rotary tools and they look great, but I am still using very happily my Makita 9227c, and have no problems on any kind of paint yet.. :)

The Rupes machine experience is also very good to have and can come back after the Rotary work in some cases, and remove any Rotary induced swirls, holograms, etc., and totally clarify even more because of that and of course, really great skills and product..

I have used Meguiars 101, 105, and 205 only and find them ok on certain paints and other compounds and polishes better on others.. M105 works really great on badly damaged Airplane Imron paint with L/C Purple Foamed Wool pads - about 50 of them.. :)

It would be good to get some hours down with Menzerna, and Optimum compounds and polishes sometime, just so you have more options..

Know all about the 3m line, having grown up with it and its great and will always be there in most auto body shops because their Dad's, granddad's taught them how to use it decades ago, right ? :)

I have to agree with the other posters above regarding hourly rate of $60 - it might work with really high end vehicles and is for sure worth it at that level, but nobody is going to pay that for their Honda Odyssey, etc, ever...

The best advice I have read above was to get the rates for everyone close by and even a bit away, including custom shops, average it and just come in a little lower possibly, to start.. A Flat rate for both Interior and Exterior, and then split up if they only want one done and not both..

What is hard about starting low is that those Clients will be harder to want to pay more later when you raise your rates, etc...

Regarding Optimum coatings - Im an authorized installer and have received a few emails from them setting really high to me pricing for installing their products now.. And of course with that, they have also really increased the price of their products to us all..

Its still a great product, and has been on my Jeep for 3+ years and it looks beautiful even when the Jeep is lightly dirty from not washing it for a few weeks at a time..

What I would try to do is find the absolute best Independent foreign/German, etc., car Repair Shop and get to know them..
Sell yourself and your business to them, by arriving in your beautifully Detailed perfectly clean, vehicle - inside and out, engine, everything, and see if you can talk to the decision maker/s about becoming their Shop Detailer and they then refer your work to their Clients, who would be so happy to get their Jet Black Mercedes E63AMG, etc., repaired, Detailed at the highest level ever, and then its back home again..

You would have to sell yourself to the guys at the front counter especially too, because they would in turn, become your biggest advocate to their Clients..

See if you can perhaps Demo your work on their Shop Vehicle, probably a really nice BMW, Mercedes, SUV/Wagon,etc., and then you should now have a great referral and business relationship that will go as long as you want it...

They will most likely already have some Detailer, but chances are he/they are not going to be doing it at the level you are because you ARE the BEST !

And of course get as much accurate pricing info as possible, so you can evaluate what the Detailing Market can handle and then price yourself up there somewhere..

This is just one suggestion on how to get in the "Door" somewhere but in a door that leads to constant, high level, recurring, vehicle work that once it gets started, you may have a hard time shutting it off.. :)

Keep working on your skills to get more experience so that you can talk intelligently about them to those/the Shop/s or Clients who are all about business but understand investments in really nice vehicles and are willing to pay for the best work on their investments...

Lastly, Overhead - going to be a killer depending on how much Insurance you have to have in your state, Liability and Garage keeper or something like that..

You have to collect state tax, if your state has it, and pay them quarterly without fail...

Lights, water, rent, then rewiring for your own lights, etc., can you use water and not have an issue with drainage, does the shop have an indoor wash rack and drain already (absolutely ideal), supplies, burglar alarm, etc., etc., etc., and you dont have any Clients booked yet.. :)

You Can Do It !!! We all did !!! And we Survived it !!! :) :) :)

Good luck ! We are rooting for you !
Dan F

[allenk4]

I arrived she wasn't there. I waited 30 minutes and her employees finally called her and she said "tell him to come back at 1pm" haha I was pissed, I had a Jeep Cherokee sitting in my garage that needed a correction and OCP so I told the employees to relay my message. "have her reschedule with me in a few weeks" and I walked out. I haven't heard from her but I run a legitimate business and I have to go where the money is but I will not cut my throat while doing it.

I hope this helps in some way.



Wow, you sure showed her!

I'm sure she will re-schedule and tell all of her office mates how Professional you are

[allenk4]

"The biggest rule broken in body shop detailing is allowing people to put silicone products on a car while others are being painted or worked on.....nib city!!"

I thought nibs were caused by dust or dirt particles trapped in the paint

I thought silicone caused fisheyes


But then again I did read...on this very forum that silicone in clay lube contains abrasives

[FTD]

FTD -
Thank you for providing more detailed info regarding your experience !
Looks like we have a very similar background.
I also started at my Dad's gas station, repair shop, body shop in back, and absolutely loved and got great at all of it, too!

You have what looks like a very well-rounded knowledge of all the pieces it takes to make a great Detailer with a greater business someday..

You mentioned Painting - did you get your Apprenticeship and Journeyman levels ? I loved that part but after awhile, this is before they took all the solvents out, I opted out because I wanted to make more money for my family, and didnt want to harm my long-term health..

I have seen my share of "fisheyes" in paintwork from not getting everything off the primer before painting, or that "someone" who walked into the Paintbooth and touched something... maddening... :)

Glad you took the time to do research - there is nothing better you can ever do than to know your competition and find a way to render them no longer your competition, through great, honest, perfect, work and work ethics and standards..

If they are mostly "production shops" and not Custom Detail Shops, then you are already ahead if you can turn out not just good work but great work consistently, no "Im sorry I missed that, "do overs", etc...

The Clientele Im hoping you can find through more research, are those that are already wealthy, have several nice cars, mostly foreign, and value them and want them to be around for a long time for everything, pleasure, specific projects, investments, etc...

These people are going to be older and wiser, and can spot all the negative things in a business, a person, etc., very quickly because they have been doing this for a living probably all their lives..

This is why the hard questions.. So you can be totally prepared and in control when you meet them hopefully in person, and you then exude total control, in charge, confidence+, and give them a short synopsis of your well rounded experience level in years, show them your well prepared portfolio of pictures, very well taken with great camera on a tripod, and you properly dressed, there will be absolutely not one hint of doubt in your mind, demeanor, or body language..

The Clients I worked with in WA., were all the above I just mentioned and more... Fluke Instruments, Boeing, Microsoft, Starbucks, Nordstrom's, etc.. All millionaire/billionaire, etc...

I have seen the 3m air Rotary tools and they look great, but I am still using very happily my Makita 9227c, and have no problems on any kind of paint yet.. :)

The Rupes machine experience is also very good to have and can come back after the Rotary work in some cases, and remove any Rotary induced swirls, holograms, etc., and totally clarify even more because of that and of course, really great skills and product..

I have used Meguiars 101, 105, and 205 only and find them ok on certain paints and other compounds and polishes better on others.. M105 works really great on badly damaged Airplane Imron paint with L/C Purple Foamed Wool pads - about 50 of them.. :)

It would be good to get some hours down with Menzerna, and Optimum compounds and polishes sometime, just so you have more options..

Know all about the 3m line, having grown up with it and its great and will always be there in most auto body shops because their Dad's, granddad's taught them how to use it decades ago, right ? :)

I have to agree with the other posters above regarding hourly rate of $60 - it might work with really high end vehicles and is for sure worth it at that level, but nobody is going to pay that for their Honda Odyssey, etc, ever...

The best advice I have read above was to get the rates for everyone close by and even a bit away, including custom shops, average it and just come in a little lower possibly, to start.. A Flat rate for both Interior and Exterior, and then split up if they only want one done and not both..

What is hard about starting low is that those Clients will be harder to want to pay more later when you raise your rates, etc...

Regarding Optimum coatings - Im an authorized installer and have received a few emails from them setting really high to me pricing for installing their products now.. And of course with that, they have also really increased the price of their products to us all..

Its still a great product, and has been on my Jeep for 3+ years and it looks beautiful even when the Jeep is lightly dirty from not washing it for a few weeks at a time..

What I would try to do is find the absolute best Independent foreign/German, etc., car Repair Shop and get to know them..
Sell yourself and your business to them, by arriving in your beautifully Detailed perfectly clean, vehicle - inside and out, engine, everything, and see if you can talk to the decision maker/s about becoming their Shop Detailer and they then refer your work to their Clients, who would be so happy to get their Jet Black Mercedes E63AMG, etc., repaired, Detailed at the highest level ever, and then its back home again..

You would have to sell yourself to the guys at the front counter especially too, because they would in turn, become your biggest advocate to their Clients..

See if you can perhaps Demo your work on their Shop Vehicle, probably a really nice BMW, Mercedes, SUV/Wagon,etc., and then you should now have a great referral and business relationship that will go as long as you want it...

They will most likely already have some Detailer, but chances are he/they are not going to be doing it at the level you are because you ARE the BEST !

And of course get as much accurate pricing info as possible, so you can evaluate what the Detailing Market can handle and then price yourself up there somewhere..

This is just one suggestion on how to get in the "Door" somewhere but in a door that leads to constant, high level, recurring, vehicle work that once it gets started, you may have a hard time shutting it off.. :)

Keep working on your skills to get more experience so that you can talk intelligently about them to those/the Shop/s or Clients who are all about business but understand investments in really nice vehicles and are willing to pay for the best work on their investments...

Lastly, Overhead - going to be a killer depending on how much Insurance you have to have in your state, Liability and Garage keeper or something like that..

You have to collect state tax, if your state has it, and pay them quarterly without fail...

Lights, water, rent, then rewiring for your own lights, etc., can you use water and not have an issue with drainage, does the shop have an indoor wash rack and drain already (absolutely ideal), supplies, burglar alarm, etc., etc., etc., and you dont have any Clients booked yet.. :)

You Can Do It !!! We all did !!! And we Survived it !!! :) :) :)

Good luck ! We are rooting for you !
Dan F


"The biggest rule broken in body shop detailing is allowing people to put silicone products on a car while others are being painted or worked on.....nib city!!"

I thought nibs were caused by dust or dirt particles trapped in the paint

I thought silicone caused fisheyes


But then again I did read...on this very forum that silicone in clay lube contains abrasives

Either way, nibs have to fixed like fisheyes, don't get me started on fisheyes....gahh. luckily I have a kits made just for fish eyes. I use my Milwaukee drill, with a sand paper attachment. I think it is a half inch disc plate, and it makes fixing fisheyes a breeze to fix.

And Thank you WA.Detailer, after reading your piece, it helped me a lot. Ill be honest I have never used Menzerna products, or Optimum polishes. I found that meguiars works real well on those japanese soft paints. The euro paints I like to use 3M because it doesn't break down quite as fast, and it cuts a little better with some woven white wool.

I am doing a Red F-150 Lightening on Friday. It belongs to a friend so I am not charging him a whole lot ($200). I am doing a light paint correction, but for video purposes I am going to do a full work up and product test between 3M and Meguiar's with identical pads and machines. I cant seem to find a good video comparing the two. I will most likely be taking off his rims and cleaning claying, and sealing them for winter storage. I have yet to look at his paint so I am not sure what condition it is in, but he told me its swirled pretty bad.

WA.Detailer The euro car places around here have porters and their own detail shops built in. Inskip Auto mall being the biggest in New England, I have two personnel friends who are porters at the auto mall, and their shop is amazing. I have people wanting to get jobs done, doctors, lawyers, some are business owners. Mostly people who have seen my work, and some who I have not met yet. I always tell my customers It will take 12 hours max, to give myself enough time to do the work. This way I am not rushing like a maniac and making mistakes. I am very methodical, I take my time when detailing. Ive seen guys go hyper speed, and miss just about everything.


** Most shops charge $225 around here for a wash/clay/polish/glaze/wax, that's not including the compound. It became $300 if they compounded, and the interior is included and very basic. This was to be done on my Supra a year ago, and was told it would take 10 hours by two guys...I don't know about you all, but I can do an extensive job on a car in like 6-8 and 10 for compounding. They must have a lot of breaks or really take their time** I wasn't going to actually let them touch my car, I was just price searching.

I will be making the video and posting it up probably Saturday on the F-150. Anything in particular you guys want done in the video? I will be hand wet sanding small areas for light scratches and such, but not a full wet sanding lol.