Should I clay or polish instead?

[DapperStyle]

Hey guys I have a 2014 C class that I've had for 7 months, only hand washed using the 3 bucket method (2 rinse buckets) since I got it. I was all set to buy some sealant and clay my car (using GG Speed Shine as lubricant) when I read that claying will induce marring in the paint :doh:

I would like to avoid doing that as my paint is in pretty great condition, I only know of a single scratch and have some minor scratches on my B Pillars that aren't worth correcting (I've read that they are quite sensitive anyway and extremely hard to correct by hand). While searching for info it seems that a finishing polish followed by a sealant is what I should do. I tried the baggie test and while there are sections where the paint is smooth I do feel some textured areas.

Would this be the better option? I've used clay on my chrome trim, wheels, and exhaust tips with no issues but never on paint.

I made another thread asking about using a sealant like Wolfgang DG 3.0 and curing it outdoors but instead Sonax PNS and GD IUDJ were suggested because of the shorter cure time. I don't need a superfast curing sealant but I live by an expressway (tons of dust and fallout in a couple of hours) and I only have a driveway, no garage.:(

Thanks in advance for any feedback, this forum has become by Detailing Bible :bowdown:

[Moldavite]

I would suggest decon first since the car already 7 months.
Also the SPNS needs to apply on clean surface for better durability :)

[DapperStyle]

I would suggest decon first since the car already 7 months.
Also the SPNS needs to apply on clean surface for better durability :)

So Iron X or similar instead of claying or polishing followed by SPNS?

[FUNX650]

Since "The Baggie Test" has revealed some textured areas...
IMO: It would be a good idea to perform a decontamination process, or processes.

•If this was my vehicle:
-After a wash/dry...
-The decontamination would start with an IronX-type product
-Then I'd clay.

•Anytime I clay:
I follow-up with a polish---whose initial aggressiveness-of-its-abrasives is determined by my assessment of the "swirl-finder light" results...then, of course, the obligatory "Test Spot" to validate that assessment.


•Due to the unfriendliness towards many Sealants' total cure-times that your vehicle's environment presents, I'll suggest Meguiar's M21 2.0 Synthetic Sealant.


Bob

[Kamakaz1961]

I would clay regardless if you have "marring" issues. You are going to be polishing anyways, so that would eliminate any "marring" issues. IMO your technique for claying could be improved. If you lube a panel enough you could reduce the "marring" affect.

If you go straight to wash, Iron X and then polish I would guess you increase the chances of scratching your ride as there is contaminants on the paint.

Claying will reduce that; IMO.

So wash, Iron X, Clay and then Polish....that is what I would do. I do feel your pain....when I first clayed I did mar my ride in many areas. Improving my technique helped reduce the marring. I hope my opinion helps! Happy Veteran's Day!!

[DapperStyle]

Since "The Baggie Test" has revealed some textured areas...
IMO: It would be a good idea to perform a decontamination process, or processes.

•If this was my vehicle:
-After a wash/dry...
-The decontamination would start with an IronX-type product
-Then I'd clay.

•Anytime I clay:
I follow-up with a polish---whose initial aggressiveness-of-its-abrasives is determined by my assessment of the "swirl-finder light" results...then, of course, the obligatory "Test Spot" to validate that assessment.


•Due to the unfriendliness towards many Sealants' total cure-times that your vehicle's environment presents, I'll suggest Meguiar's M21 2.0 Synthetic Sealant.


Bob

Bob, I appreciate the reply. Would claying display more swirls that were previously hidden? I don't have access to a dedicated swirl finder light but using a high output LED flashlight I could only find that single scratch I mentioned earlier and one single etching on the trunk lid that I almost completely removed using Meg's paint cleaner.

If I don't find some, if any, swirls what polish would be best to use by hand?

Also would Iron X snow soap be fine or is it better to use the concentrated spray (or similar like TRIX or DodoJuice Ferrous Dueller)?

[DapperStyle]

I would clay regardless if you have "marring" issues. You are going to be polishing anyways, so that would eliminate any "marring" issues. IMO your technique for claying could be improved. If you lube a panel enough you could reduce the "marring" affect.

If you go straight to wash, Iron X and then polish I would guess you increase the chances of scratching your ride as there is contaminants on the paint.

Claying will reduce that; IMO.

So wash, Iron X, Clay and then Polish....that is what I would do. I do feel your pain....when I first clayed I did mar my ride in many areas. Improving my technique helped reduce the marring. I hope my opinion helps! Happy Veteran's Day!!

I haven't clayed my paint before so I am very wary, I've only used the clay on wheels, chrome trim, and exhaust tips. My idea is to start with my windshield, do all the glass, then move on to the paint. So I haven't really made a technique per-se, I'll be youtubing videos to learn more.

I mean when I do one panel at a time am I going left to right or up and down? I guess I'll learn as I go.

[Moldavite]

All these suggestions above are good steps to perfect paint :)

yes you may use ironX soap before clay to aid decon process...

[Paul A.]

Do you have a machine or are you doing everything by hand?

Your meticulous washing technique has undoubtedly served you well and good job on that. However i would personally do a full decontamination including both clay and an iron remover to even brand new paint to get it as clean and imedded crud free as possible. That said, i ALWAYS then need to buff and polish the paint to restore every ounce of zip and gloss back to the paint. Any method used to mechanically decon the paint (e.g. clay) runs the risk of marring being inflicted however still, in my opinion, is necessary to really get the imbedded crap off. You mention a nearby expressway and i would be curious to know how detrimental that is for fallout. In any event, i consider claying, or in my case using a Nanoskin glove, a necessary step to prep the paint for a finish.

If you don't have a buffing machine and are doing this all by hand i would recommend as a minimum doing an iron decon...Iron X is my go to product for that. At least that can address some of the imbedded metallic contaminants and is an easy spray on, let it sit a while but not dry, lightly agitate with a grout sponge to work it a bit and even out the coverage and simply hose off.

I will admit readily here that i have never clayed a vehicle without getting something from that abrasive, "friction on paint" method that needs to be corrected. But i know i will be buffing and polishing after anyway.

[FUNX650]

If I don't find some, if any, swirls what polish would be best to use by hand?

I like Meguiars M205 for a finishing polish.
But you can't go wrong by choosing a similar product from here: Results for Light abrasive polishes - Search (http://autogeek.commerce-search.net/search?catalog=autogeek&query=Light+abrasive+polishes&x=44&y=14)

Bob

[DapperStyle]

Do you have a machine or are you doing everything by hand?

Your meticulous washing technique has undoubtedly served you well and good job on that. However i would personally do a full decontamination including both clay and an iron remover to even brand new paint to get it as clean and imedded crud free as possible. That said, i ALWAYS then need to buff and polish the paint to restore every ounce of zip and gloss back to the paint. Any method used to mechanically decon the paint (e.g. clay) runs the risk of marring being inflicted however still, in my opinion, is necessary to really get the imbedded crap off. You mention a nearby expressway and i would be curious to know how detrimental that is for fallout. In any event, i consider claying, or in my case using a Nanoskin glove, a necessary step to prep the paint for a finish.

If you don't have a buffing machine and are doing this all by hand i would recommend as a minimum doing an iron decon...Iron X is my go to product for that. At least that can address some of the imbedded metallic contaminants and is an easy spray on, let it sit a while but not dry, lightly agitate with a grout sponge to work it a bit and even out the coverage and simply hose off.

I will admit readily here that i have never clayed a vehicle without getting something from that abrasive, "friction on paint" method that needs to be corrected. But i know i will be buffing and polishing after anyway.

I do everything by hand. I have been extremely meticulous with my car which is Palladium Silver so I love it when it pops.

The products I've been using over the past 7 months were found here:
Pinnacle Body work Shampoo with 2 MF mitts (1 for top 1 for lower half)
followed by Megs Ultimate Liquid Wax with me using either XMT 360 spray wax or GG Speed Shine after other washes.
Stripping the wax with CG Wash and Gloss (came free with my buckets) every 3 months and waxing again with Megs ULW.
Sonax on wheels
Aero 303 on black trim/tires
Clay on chrome and wheels
PB's natural look on interior for matte look

My neighbors think I'm nuts.

As for the expressway, yes it is an issue a day after washing my car it is generally covered in soot, so I wash on Saturday and enjoy it Saturday and Sunday (car is a weekend car only).

Can I use a MF mitt for the Iron X or should I get a grout sponge? I am pretty scared to screw my paint up but from what I understand Mercedes tend to have pretty strong clearcoats so maybe I am overthinking it all.

[Paul A.]

A MF mitt would be perfectly fine with Iron X and just lightly agitate the product...don't bear down with any pressure. It's a chemical reaction anyway so scrubbing doesn't add any benefit in my opinion. And always remember that any friction pass over your paint can inflict scratches. With everything you do to your car...wash, dry, QD spray etc. should be done with very light pressure. You'll be fine. How do i know that? Cus you are concerned with messin' up your paint! Light pressure and Ceramiclear paint will keep the scratches to a minimum.

And all of our neighbors think we're nuts. Welcome to the insane car care network my friend! I had a neighbor tell me i was going to wash the paint off the car some years ago. I simply responded "hey, my doctor said as long as i was gonna wash my hands 200 times a day i may's well be productive".

[conman1395]

I guarantee your car has more swirls and scratches than you see because it's silver. My mother's silver MDX goes through automatic brushes every week and I can barely see a flaw. So with that said, go clay your car. When you're ready to buy a machine, then polish it.

[DapperStyle]

A MF mitt would be perfectly fine with Iron X and just lightly agitate the product...don't bear down with any pressure. It's a chemical reaction anyway so scrubbing doesn't add any benefit in my opinion. And always remember that any friction pass over your paint can inflict scratches. With everything you do to your car...wash, dry, QD spray etc. should be done with very light pressure. You'll be fine. How do i know that? Cus you are concerned with messin' up your paint! Light pressure and Ceramiclear paint will keep the scratches to a minimum.

And all of our neighbors think we're nuts. Welcome to the insane car care network my friend! I had a neighbor tell me i was going to wash the paint off the car some years ago. I simply responded "hey, my doctor said as long as i was gonna wash my hands 200 times a day i may's well be productive".

I'll keep that in mind. One of my neighbors has an 08' Accord coupe that was last cleaned when it was prepped at the dealer before selling. It's awful.

[DapperStyle]

I guarantee your car has more swirls and scratches than you see because it's silver. My mother's silver MDX goes through automatic brushes every week and I can barely see a flaw. So with that said, go clay your car. When you're ready to buy a machine, then polish it.

Yeah you're right it probably does have a bunch of stuff I can't see since I don't have a dedicated light. For now though, I guess I'll be polishing by hand. I'll be buying a PC or Megs DA around the holidays maybe I'll hint at it and get my girl to get it for me as a gift!