The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

[Mike Phillips]

The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/86146-aggressive-approach-washing-car.html)


In my first and second editions of my how-to book I teach two ways to wash a car,

The Aggressive Approach - This is how you wash a neglected car before you're going to machine buff it.

The Gentle Approach - This is how you wash a car you or someone else has already buffed out.

You need to now the difference between the two approaches and when to use them. If you detail cars for money.... you need to educate your customer AFTER you've detailed their car to use the Gentle Approach so they don't undo your hard work and then blame you because swirls and scratches came back.


This Camaro is rough!
I don't think this Camaro has been properly washed and waxed for maybe 10 years or longer as it's pretty rough, not just rough looking but rough feeling to the touch.

So we're going to use the aggressive approach to wash and and also My Classic Car (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/86007-set-my-classic-car-dennis-gage-2015-a.html) filmed this for their TV show to share with their audience some of the things you learn when you attend our Detailing Boot Camp Classes.

I also used this car as a Training Car for my last class because it's

A: Neglected
B: White


Chemical Decontamination - Removing Iron Particles in the Paint
And I always have a neglected white vehicle to demonstrate the importance of removing iron contamination with a product like Iron X.


Mechanical Decontamination - Removing Bonded Contaminants like Overspray Paint
I also show how to speed up production detailing by mechanically decontaminating the paint during the washing process using Nanoskin products.

One method does not replace the other method you need to do both if you're working on a neglected vehicle.



Without further ado, here's some pictures from the first day of the September 2014 Detailing Boot Camp Class.



Wheels & Tires First
My classes and books always teach to wash wheels and tires first, to find out why see page 15 of either The Art of Detailing or the second edition, The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1313/SigLine_Books_004.jpg (http://www.autogeek.net/art-of-detailing-paperback-book.html) http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1313/SigLine_Books_002.jpg (http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-create-a-show-car-shine-book.html)


This is a lug nut cleaning brush

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83390


Simply place it over the lug nut and clean the lug nuts and the barrels at the same time...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83391


This is a Wheel Woolie used for cleaning in hard to reach areas...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83392


After washing the wheels and tires rinse well....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83393




Start at the top and work your way down
After washing the wheels and tires first, next start at the top and work your way down. This is also explained in detail in my first two books.


Bleeding like a Stuck Pig
The first step for our aggressive approach is to chemically decontaminate the paint using Iron X. Here you can see the white paint on this Camaro bleeding like a stuck pig.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83394

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83395

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83396




Use the Foam Gun to Foam the Car
Next we use the foam gun to slather the car's body panels with car wash foam.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83397

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83398

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83399



Wash body panels and glass
Next we use Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitts to loosen surface dirt so it can be rinsed off.

Here you can see Richard, the Cameraman from My Classic Car capturing the car washing process.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83400


Get her clean boys!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83401

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83402



Rinse off all the loose dirt and soap suds
Next the Camaro was fully and thoroughly rinsed to remove all the loosened dirt off the car and out of all the cracks and crevices. This is IMPORTANT if you're going to machine buff a car.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83403




Mechanically Decontaminate the Paint with Nanoskin Wash Mitts and Towels
Nanoskin Wash Mitts and Towels work great for removing bonded contaminants. They come in Fine and Medium Grade. One benefit is if you drop either on the ground you can simply rinse it off and continue using it. If you drop detailing clay you must throw it away.

It's important that you first wash and RINSE the car to remove all the loose dirt otherwise you risk instilling scratches. The point being you don't want to rub the polymerized rubber surface of the Nanoskin product over paint that still has dirt floating on it from the wash process so RINSE first - then use the Nanosking products to remove the bonded contaminants.

In this example we use the Foam Gun to foam the car and use the foam as our lubricant for the Nanoskin Wash Mitts and Towels.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83404

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83405

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83406


Rinse a Second Time
Then rinse the car a second time to remove all the contaminants removed by the Nanoskin products.
(No pictures)


Dry the car
After all the washing and decontaminating is finished dry any standing water off the car to avoid water spots. Here the class is using the Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying Towels.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83407

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83408



This car is clean. This car is chemically decontaminated. This car is mechanically decontaminated.

That's how you use the Aggressive Approach to wash a car.

This car is now ready to machine buff.


:)

[refreshauto]

i have been following this method for all my washes since i attended the boot camp. my customers really like the end results from this approach.

[Mike Phillips]

i have been following this method for all my washes since i attended the boot camp. my customers really like the end results from this approach.




And you my friend are on top of your game!

Pictures: Detailing Classes at Autogeek - May 2014 (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-saturday-detailing-101/80096-pictures-detailing-classes-autogeek-may-2014-a.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2410/May_2014_Detailing_Class_019.jpg



:dblthumb2:

[grungy]

Mike - some of us live in water restricted areas where normal rinse at home is not permitted. Suggestions for us ONR/rinseless folks to use as an alternative?

[Tato]

Marvelous, I'm sure to follow your steps when preparing a car for polishing / full detail.

Preparation takes time, but if you're after doing things the proper way a solid basis is mandatory to avoid headaches in middle and the end.

For sure I'm grateful for all effort you (Mike) put into sharing 'Smart' working ideas, noticeable in the latest series of threads you're releasing lately.

Thank you,

Kind Regards.

[Caleb@ImpeccableImage]

Very nice Mike. The prep work is just as important as the correction process.

[KMdef9]

When I use iron-x, I would rinse after letting the product sit for 5-7 minutes, I don't agitate the product. It seems like you guys went right into the 2BM after letting the iron-x work. Is that way more effective than rinsing right away?

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

Mike, are you spraying iron x on a dry dirty car, letting it sit, then foaming and going to the 2bm? I usually will wash the car first then spray iron x on the rinsed but still wet paint. Do you get better results doing it your way?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Rmd]

Mike, are you spraying iron x on a dry dirty car, letting it sit, then foaming and going to the 2bm? I usually will wash the car first then spray iron x on the rinsed but still wet paint. Do you get better results doing it your way?


Related question - If car is washed first, is is preferable to apply the IronX to the paint when it is still wet (as stated above) or should the car be dried first and IronX applied to clean but dry paint?

[KMdef9]

I wash the dirt off first, then iron-x when it's wet, especially if it's heavily soiled. And I don't see a point in risking scratching anymore than what's needed, so I don't dry it in between.

But I wouldn't mind hearing a precise breakdown to Mike's process.

[FUNX650]

I wash the dirt off first, then iron-x when it's wet, especially if it's heavily soiled. And I don't see a point in risking scratching anymore than what's needed, so I don't dry it in between.

But I wouldn't mind hearing a precise breakdown to Mike's process.
I would not apply IronX to a wet vehicle:
-An undetermined amount of dilution will occur
-Product less apt to "stay in place".

But that's just some of my decon-thoughts.

Anyway...
Here's some official wording on what CarPro (Avi)
has to say about applying IronX to a vehicle:

"DRY SURFACE IS VERY GOOD AND BETTER/DEEPER DISSOLVING...
so dry wheel or paint will be better de-contaminating"
_______________________________________________

Bob

[KMdef9]

I would not apply IronX to a wet vehicle:
-An undetermined amount of dilution will occur
-Product less apt to "stay in place".

But that's just some of my decon-thoughts.

Anyway...
Here's some official wording on what CarPro (Avi)
has to say about applying IronX to a vehicle:

"DRY SURFACE IS VERY GOOD AND BETTER/DEEPER DISSOLVING...
so dry wheel or paint will be better de-contaminating"
_______________________________________________

Bob

Thanks!

What about going straight into the 2BM after iron-x has been soaking for the recommended amount of time?

[FUNX650]

Thanks!

What about going straight into the 2BM after iron-x has been soaking for the recommended amount of time?
No...That's not my recommendation;
or, the one that really matters: CarPro's.

•Shake Iron X Spray well and spray directly onto the surface.
•Agitate lightly and thoroughly with a damp sponge or mitt.
•Allow to dwell on the surface for 5 min. while the color of Iron X turns purple/red.
•Wipe off with soft, damp sponge and do not allow Iron X to dry completely.
•Rinse well with water from a hose or a pressure washer,
paying extra attention to body panel seams, lug nuts and emblems.
______________________________________________

Of course this doesn't preclude anyone from:
Straying from the straight and narrow;
Going down a road less traveled.

However:
I personally wouldn't ever want my car-wash buckets, or car-wash mitts, winding up being full of rusty sediments---sediments that could possibly be reintroduced to vehicles placed in my care.


Bob

[Mike Phillips]

Mike - some of us live in water restricted areas where normal rinse at home is not permitted.

Suggestions for us ONR/rinseless folks to use as an alternative?




Yes. It's not a convienent suggestion but one that should work if you want to use Iron X to decontaminate the paint on a car and that is to locate and use a do-it-yourself car wash.


Like the one I used in this article,


Blasting Bird Bombs at the Coin-Op Car Wash! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/76554-blasting-bird-bombs-coin-op-car-wash.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2282/800_Bird_Droppings_on_SLK_350_Coated_009.jpg



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2282/800_Bird_Droppings_on_SLK_350_Coated_010.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2282/800_Bird_Droppings_on_SLK_350_Coated_011.jpg


:)

[Mike Phillips]

When I use iron-x, I would rinse after letting the product sit for 5-7 minutes, I don't agitate the product. It seems like you guys went right into the 2BM after letting the iron-x work.

Is that way more effective than rinsing right away?






Mike, are you spraying iron x on a dry dirty car, letting it sit, then foaming and going to the 2bm?

I usually will wash the car first then spray iron x on the rinsed but still wet paint. Do you get better results doing it your way?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Let me see if I can answer both of your questions at the same time....



First, there was no 2 bucket method or 1 bucket method... just the foam gun. I rarely use any bucket method as the foam gun replaces the bucket or buckets....


As for my method of using Iron X



First... when teaching a class on this topic I get a neglected WHITE vehicle as the bleeding effect is the most dramatic and thus has the most impact when using neglected and contaminated white paint and that's what I'm trying to achieve in the class.... impact.

The people that attend my classes will very likely use ALL the techniques they learn for the rest of their lives because they have impact. And because they have impact they remember them....


For TV, that is for My Classic Car, I also wanted maximum impact for the TV audience, many of whom I'm guessing will have NEVER seen or heard of a product like Iron X and it's function in car detailing. Richard, the cameraman captured this and it will air next year on My Classic Car....

See Richard.... and his camera?

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83400





Then as far as spraying on the Iron X and letting it do it's thing and then foaming the car instead of rinsing off the Iron X first....

Look at the title of this thread and the concept it teaches. This is the aggressive approach to washing a car and the point of the aggressive approach is to get the car surgically clean, not be gentle.

We're going to buff the paint out so any wash induced marring is inconsequential because we're going to buff out the car.


2002 SS Camaro Extreme Makeover! - Pictures & Comments (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/86110-2002-ss-camaro-extreme-makeover-pictures-comments.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=83412




No had we already buffed out this car then we would have used the Gentle Approach to washing a car.

Make sense?


Function over form....


:)