PDA

View Full Version : Is my flex SUPPOSED to get this hot?



Pages : [1] 2

Alek@DeepClean
10-15-2014, 07:19 PM
I've used my Flex 3401 on approximately 4 cars. Over the course of these 4 cars, I've noticed that my Flex gets WAY hotter than I imagine it should.

The first thing that happened was that I noticed it was spitting out bits of black plastic where it appeared to be melting the backing plate at the contact with the felt ring.

Also, the heat from the polisher significantly softens my pads to the point that they barely offer any correction. Once the polisher starts to get hot, I can get 2 MAYBE 3 sections(not panels) out of a pad before it loses its cut completely. Switch to a cool pad, problem solved temporarily. It's not a matter of clogged pads, because if I let the pad cool down and put it back on, it works again for 2-3 sections.

Then, on the last car I did, it actually managed to completely destroy one of my LC interchangeable backing plates. The counterbored area where it screws to the polisher got so hot that it completely pulled out, and the backing plate went flying with the attachment screw still in the machine.

This can't possibly be normal, can it? The only way Ive found to avoid this is to stop polishing for several minutes after each section to let it cool down. For what it's worth, my other polisher does NOT heat up like this, but its also not forced rotation.

WAXOFF
10-15-2014, 07:22 PM
I thought the same thing and contacted Flex. They told me this is normal and if it gets too hot it will shut down.

bigdaddy65
10-15-2014, 07:32 PM
Then, on the last car I did, it actually managed to completely destroy one of my LC interchangeable backing plates. The counterbored area where it screws to the polisher got so hot that it completely pulled out, and the backing plate went flying with the attachment screw still in the machine.

Contact LC. I had the same problem with their 6" backing plate and I was told there were some design issues and they are sending a replacement with 3 of the thinner washers.

dcjredline
10-15-2014, 08:03 PM
Does LC make the flex backing plate or did he say he had a LC and I missed it?

Sent from my XT1030 using AG Online

geekdout
10-15-2014, 08:03 PM
I have a flex and that does not sound normal to me.

What gauge extension cord are you using while using your Flex?

Alek@DeepClean
10-15-2014, 08:08 PM
Here is a photo of another LC plate with the same damage as mine. Perhaps this is an issue with the plate system as bigdaddy suggested, and not so much with the polisher itself. I actually haven't even considered that as an option, and haven't tried the OEM Flex backing plate since I didn't purchase pads in that size. I'll contact LC as suggested, and see what they say. I'll also try out the OEM plate to see if it does the same thing, I have some yellow CCS pads that came with the polisher I can use for testing purposes.

Thanks everyone for your help! Any other ideas, please keep them coming!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Screen_Shot_2014-04-14_at_5_35_50_PM.png

fly07sti
10-15-2014, 10:34 PM
Did you lube the felt ring by any chance? I put assembly lube or cylglide on my flex whenever I change the backing plates around. Mike actually suggests this in a thread somewhere on here. Also, what speed and amount of pressure are you using?

Evan.J
10-15-2014, 10:43 PM
I have used my flex on Air Force One during long days and I have not had any issue like you are stating.

When you use the factory flex Backing plate are you having the same issues or is it just with the LC backing plate?

Setec Astronomy
10-16-2014, 06:58 AM
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/34201-lubricating-felt-ring-flex-3401-a.html

RobRabbit2.5
10-16-2014, 07:53 AM
I've noticed this issue mentioned on AG in the reviews for the LC backing plate system. As they are not OEM and it states clearly in the book to only use backing plates manufactured by flex i stayed away from them.

However...

While first using my flex i did not use the pushtop lock to secure the backing plate at first and it was spinning losely causing friction between the ring and the backing plate. It will make signifigantly more noise when it spins down and will cause alot more heat. Make sure to tighten that center nut very well. It's spinning very fast.

I know these are very basic answers but i always like to start with the basics first.

The other response about the extension cord is true as well. Minimum gauge stated for flex's amp draw is 16/3.

Justin at Final Inspection
10-16-2014, 08:55 AM
Yeah Like stated earlier, I use just a dab of air tool oil on that felt ring before I start a car. Have used my 3401 since June and although it gets a little hot I have had no issues with the 4-3/8 backing plate and 5.5in CCS pads from LC.

Alek@DeepClean
10-16-2014, 10:19 AM
Just got a response from David at LC, he stated that the damage to my plate is consistent with what they've seen before. He is sending me a new kit with the updated design. I'll give this a shot along with lubricating the felt ring and see how that goes for me. I'll be sure to update this thread so anyone else having this issue can have the info available!

As far as the extension cord, I'm using a 25' 16g cord which is plenty for the Flex.

02xtreme07SS
10-16-2014, 10:56 AM
As far as the extension cord, I'm using a 25' 16g cord which is plenty for the Flex.

It's borderline, but just slightly undersized for the the current draw. The FLEX 3401 draws 10.4 amps. A 16g extension cord at 25' is roughly rated 10A. Based on the available NEC information, I would step up to a 14g at the very least.

Alek@DeepClean
10-16-2014, 11:09 AM
16g at 25' is good for 13 amps, not 10. 14 can handle 15.

02xtreme07SS
10-16-2014, 11:19 AM
16g at 25' is good for 13 amps, not 10. 14 can handle 15.

You're right, I misread the NEC/UL chart. 2 current carrying conductor 16g 0-50' is 13A. I misquoted the 3 current carrying conductor 16g 0-50' which is only 10A.

:xyxthumbs: