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tguil
10-05-2014, 09:00 PM
Had recent repair/repaint done to my wife's Tacoma. Discovered light overspray on windshield. The body shop is 500 miles away so it isn't going back. Try clay and then what?

VP Mark
10-05-2014, 09:13 PM
Clay should work fine. If that doesn't work razor blade might be needed before clay.

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Mike Phillips
10-06-2014, 08:00 AM
Had recent repair/repaint done to my wife's Tacoma.

Discovered light overspray on windshield.

The body shop is 500 miles away so it isn't going back. Try clay and then what?



If there's overspray on the glass there's probably overspray on any exterior part of the car that was not covered or taped off.

Clay or Nanoskin Towel or pad on a DA polisher.


:)

tguil
10-06-2014, 10:26 AM
If there's overspray on the glass there's probably overspray on any exterior part of the car that was not covered or taped off.

Clay or Nanoskin Towel or pad on a DA polisher.


:)

Yep, there was light overspray on the body. I took it off with my pc and some Mequiar's Ultimate Compound. I thought about clay, but I already had the compound out. I forgot about the windshield until I had to drive into a setting sun. Duh.

tguil
10-06-2014, 08:13 PM
I think that I still have overspray on the windshield after claying a bunch... at least the baggie test says that it is still there. I used both Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay and Meguiar's Body Shop Professional Overspray Clay. (It's pretty old but it is pliable and seems to be in good shape.) I'll know for sure about overspray remaining when I have to drive into a sunrise or sunset. Also the windshield wipers don't work all that well with the overspray.

The Nanoskin stuff is a bit more than I want to spend...but then is it really better than clay.

I may end up taking the truck to a pro detailer. Hate to admit that I can't "git-r-done". Any other suggestions?

By the way, the baggie test shows that I still have overspray on the truck body. It's my wife's daily driver and it may not get removed for a while.

tguil
10-08-2014, 02:59 PM
Any further suggestions before I order the "aggressive" Mequiar's clay. A friend who runs a pro-detailing shop suggested 000 steel wool and windex plus a lot of elbow grease. Not so sure that I want to use steel wool on glass.

I can always use the "aggressive" clay on the rest of the truck so I won't be wasting any money.

An important lesson. Never have an accident 500 miles from home.

conquistador
10-08-2014, 03:41 PM
Any further suggestions before I order the "aggressive" Mequiar's clay. A friend who runs a pro-detailing shop suggested 000 steel wool and windex plus a lot of elbow grease. Not so sure that I want to use steel wool on glass.

I can always use the "aggressive" clay on the rest of the truck so I won't be wasting any money.

An important lesson. Never have an accident 500 miles from home.

Keep anything with the word "steel" in it away from glass.

Sent from my HTC One using AG Online

fiveoh
10-08-2014, 06:29 PM
You've got to see my post!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/80807-how-use-nanoskin-autoscrub-pads-mechanically-decontaminate-your-car-s-paint-2.html#post1171070

Mike Phillips
10-09-2014, 06:34 AM
Any further suggestions before I order the "aggressive" Mequiar's clay.



Anything as aggressive as an aggressive clay bar is going to risk marring your car's paint.

That would include the Aggressive Megs clay or a Nanoskin Medium Grade product.





A friend who runs a pro-detailing shop suggested 000 steel wool and windex plus a lot of elbow grease. Not so sure that I want to use steel wool on glass.



I"ve owned a lot of classic vehicles and I'm sad to say a lot of the windshields on these older cars always looked like someone too steel wool to them.

I've never used steel wool, not even the very fine stuff on glass. It just makes sense that steel will scratch glass. Plus there are other ways to remove contaminants.

If you do opt to use steel wool, then do a test spot first and don't do it in the DRIVERS SIDE of the windshield. Just in case something goes wrong.

Removing REAL SCRATCHES out of glass is hard and time consuming. I'm pretty good at it and I timed myself once on a Honda Windshield and just counting the time when I ran the rotary buffer, not set-up time, no clean-up time, no taping off and covering up no anything else it took me about 2 hours.

So just a few minutes of scratching glass can turn a mole hill into a mountain. So test first. I know a lot of guys for DECADES recommend steel wool on glass and if it works for them go for it but I can find safer alternative methods.






I can always use the "aggressive" clay on the rest of the truck so I won't be wasting any money.




When it comes to doing the best you can to remove as much above surface bonded contaminants no matter what they are, I think the Nanoskin Medium Grade pad on the Flex 3401 is optimum.

The Flex 3401 with a Nanoskin pad is a BEAST. Period.

How to use Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads to mechanically decontaminate your car's paint (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/80807-how-use-nanoskin-autoscrub-pads-mechanically-decontaminate-your-car-s-paint.html)


:)